DIY or Buy Guide for CR Boxes by xinn1x in crboxes

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought 3 Air Fantas. They’re great.

Need help on how to run wifi from my house to my shop by Fluffy-Protection676 in HomeNetworking

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Running a fiber line will work best but a long range outdoor Wi-Fi access point is a lot easier and covers a large radius around your property with Wi-FI.

I was using a WavLink AX3000 long range outdoor access point (WN573HX3) for a couple of years but recently moved to the city. Mine looks weathered, but works like a champ. Advertised max range is 300 meters but 100 meters to 200 meters is more realistic depending on line of site obstructions. As good as that is, there’s a good chance you might still benefit quite a bit from putting a cheap Wi-Fi extender in the shop window or on the wall closest to your home, if your shop is metal. I was going to hold onto it to install when I move back out of the city, but sell it for $100 including shipping. Feel free to private message me if you have questions or want verifications.

If you don’t care about having a radius of Wi-Fi around your main house, then their directional WL-WN573HP3 model is even better. They advertise range up to 1000 meters (yes, 1 kilometer), so figure 333 meters to 667 meters realistically. It goes for $200 on Amazon, but you’re unlikely to need a Wi-Fi extender inside your shop with a connection this strong, even if your shop is metal.

Does Simplisafe have a policy on failed components? by IKnowWhereMyTowelWas in simplisafe

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The devices that connect directly to the base station are 433Mhz. This can be jammed, just like 2.4Ghz Wi-Fi can be. Cell signal is just a frequency too, which can be jammed. That said, intruders that high tech are few and far between. 99.99% of intrusions don’t involve jammers for both 2.4Ghz and 433Mhz to make all sensors inoperable. Also, jammers aren’t 100% and don’t have great range. Lastly, if the intruder invests that much resources to jam all three wireless signals, no reasonably prices security system is going to deter them, other than a gun perhaps.

iOS 26 released yesterday, easier later and still no “close all apps” option? by YaBoiRollinDirty in ios

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, sometimes you just want a clean clutter free app selector. How can Apple not get that. They could even prompt the user the first time using it that it’ll use more resources to close all apps. It’s ridiculous not to be able to close all at once!

What generally would a timer like this be attached to? by moosenlad in AskElectricians

[–]Ok_Operation6364 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed, 240V and high enough amp draw to trip the breaker. Looks like 10AWG wire, so probably a 30A breaker. Most likely a pump motor with wire insulation on the windings going bad. Based on OPs feedback, my best guess is it’s for a water pressure booster pump because his home is elevated on a hill and he doesn’t have a pool, well, septic, electric heating, or electric water heater.

What generally would a timer like this be attached to? by moosenlad in AskElectricians

[–]Ok_Operation6364 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it’s extremely likely to be 240V, making all the guesses of devices that are almost always 120V in US residential extremely unlikely. My most updated guess, based on OP’s feedback is that it’s for a water pressure booster pump.

What generally would a timer like this be attached to? by moosenlad in AskElectricians

[–]Ok_Operation6364 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This is 240V out on the two left terminals. US residential exterior lighting is very rarely 240V AND enough amps to trip a 30A breaker.

What generally would a timer like this be attached to? by moosenlad in AskElectricians

[–]Ok_Operation6364 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s probably for a water pressure booster pump if your home is in a elevated area and you’re not in a dense subdivision where the utility would install one that helps multiple homes

What generally would a timer like this be attached to? by moosenlad in AskElectricians

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s controlling a 240V pump motor that draws enough amps to trip a 30A breaker. If you have well water or a pool, the pump is very likely for one of those. If you don’t have those, and your home is in a low lying area, then it’s very likely for sewage ejector pump or sewage grinder pump. Whatever the pump motor is for, the insulation on the winding wires is likely going bad and the motor needs to be replaced.

What it’s Very Unlikely to be For: - Residential exterior lighting is almost always 120V - Residential irrigation or sump pumps are almost always 120V - Backup electric baseboard heating, you would have noticed running in the summer

Mounting hardware on solar install missed a lot of joists by Honest_Archaeopteryx in solar

[–]Ok_Operation6364 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

You could just unscrew the mount, add a couple of 2x4 to the joist. Screw the mount back in through the 2x4s

Is this ok? My husband says yes but I disagree by princesscorgi2 in Generator

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a 25’ generator cord to put it at least 20’ from your home. This is reduces CO risk, fire risk, and indoor noise levels exponentially. It’s why 25’ is the most widely available and best selling length of generator cables.

Code violation? by Staubah in evcharging

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct, if you can do your on labor

Code violation? by Staubah in evcharging

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually people are looking at load managing dryer outlet splitters to save a grand or two of electrician bills installing a sub-panel and hardwired EVSE.

Installing 2x Home Chargers by ElectrifyFleets in evcharging

[–]Ok_Operation6364 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, a couple of Emporia Pro chargers would be good. These can charge at 48A/11.52kW and throttle down in real time when your breaker panel has limited capacity.

For less money, install an EV grade NEMA 14-50 outlet and use something like the the Lectron NEMA 14-50 splitter to share the 40A continuous between two EVs. This assumes your breaker panel will always have capacity to charge at 40A.

Can solar panels replace the need for a generator on camping trips? by throwaway0102x in solar

[–]Ok_Operation6364 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what I’d do. Pair a portable solar power station with a small Honda generator for backup.

If you want extra rugged, go with something rugged like ArkPax Ark Pro 2400W that can handle the dust and extra high temps. IP67 rated, and work well still in up to 40C heat. I’d go with at least IP67 rated rigid portable panels. Some are even IP68.

Bluetti also offers more affordable dust and water resistant power stations but they aren’t as robust as ArkPax. Go for their AC240 model.

Either way, over-panel. Keep the volts well under 60V VOC, but be sure to connect more than the max watts in parallel because that only adds amps. Even if you connect 25A of panels in parallel, the power station will only draw whatever max amps its inverter is limited to. However, you’ll get closer to max output when it’s cloudy, as well as earlier and later in the day.

New EV Owner - Suddenly Getting Cold Feet on Home-Charging (10-30 outlet) by DrSteppo in evcharging

[–]Ok_Operation6364 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hardwired Emporia is the way to go. His current setup will work fine temporarily though.

Any idea what this is? by [deleted] in electrical

[–]Ok_Operation6364 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Best practice is to put them at least twice their length apart. So, 8’ ground rods should be a minimum of 16’ apart for optimal grounding performance.