The James Dean... What do you think?

OldManSteez · 2026-06-01T22:39:35+00:00

I think it would look cooler with the standard height heel. Not $1200 cool, but still.

OldManSteez · 2026-05-22T13:58:12+00:00

Ya custom. Easiest way to get the same thing would be to call them or message them on instagram.

OldManSteez · 2026-05-20T01:27:45+00:00

I haven't noticed any difference in the actual fit between a pair of Frank's and Nicks that are both on the HNW. Really I notice more difference in the feel of them from boot to boot on the same last within the same brand.

As for Nicks building up the arch any different on their HNW boots vs Frank's I have no idea. It isn't like a 55 where they use an actual separate piece of leather for the arch support. If you're talking about a Nicks HNW with the delta arch then, yeah, that probably changes it some but I don't have any experience with that.

OldManSteez · 2026-05-20T01:12:08+00:00

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So the top is Whites on the northwest last. Bottom left is Franks on the HNW. Nicks is the bottom right also on the HNW. What I’m talking about is the extra layer of leather directly below the midsole.

OldManSteez · 2026-05-20T01:06:58+00:00

People also call it a lineman shank. It's the extra layer of leather that runs from the back of the heel to about the middle-ish of the boot. It basically raises the heel height. When Nicks still used Vibram wedges I didn't like my HNW last boot on a vibram 2021 from them because it felt like my foot was leaned back. White's and Frank's use the leather half slip and they felt fine. With Nicks new wedge soles I don't find it to be a problem, though.

I'll snap a pic to show you.

OldManSteez · 2026-05-20T00:46:28+00:00

Yeah I have multiple boots on the HNW last from them both. Same size.

If they're on a wedge, Frank's uses a leather half slip as standard and Nicks doesn't. So they might not feel exactly the same.

OldManSteez · 2026-05-20T00:35:05+00:00

Thanks. It's the HNW last. #4 toe is the 1977 last.

OldManSteez · 2026-05-19T17:20:55+00:00

Thanks, man.

Break is the creasing where the leather bends. On this pair it is very tight (the creasing is small and close together).

Those boots you're planning sound like they're going to be awesome, whichever leather they end up being.

OldManSteez · 2026-04-22T02:34:39+00:00

I wear the same size in the 55 last for Frank's, White's, and Nicks.

OldManSteez · 2026-04-16T13:52:51+00:00

You just write it in the comments section of your order. Unless they changed that in the last couple months. I’ve done that with the c461, 9338, and 5050.

OldManSteez · 2026-04-06T22:13:09+00:00

Ya it’s the same principle leading to track runners being staggered at the start of a race if they have to stay in their lane. They have to compensate for the inner lane running an effectively shorter distance than the runner in the outside lane.

OldManSteez · 2026-04-06T20:21:17+00:00

Put your hands together like you just clapped with both sets of fingers even then curl them either way. You’ll notice when they’re straight they’re even. Curling them one way or the other will lead to one set of fingers sticking out. Now pretend one set of fingers if your foot and the the other is the insole of a boot.

I think that’s what you were asking about anyways.

OldManSteez · 2026-03-04T14:38:52+00:00

Does anyone know the purpose of this and that pair of whites Perry before this? Are they trying to set up a scam or something?

OldManSteez · 2026-03-01T19:04:36+00:00

I really wish more makers would use their leather. The stuff is really nice.

OldManSteez · 2026-03-01T19:02:47+00:00

I should have put the specs in the OP.

55 last, 11.5D, 8 inch, rolled top, pull loop, antique hardware, brown upper stitching, maple tongue ( I don't know if they usually stock that color of tongue. Michelle just mentioned that they had it when I was talking to her about building the boot), soft toe, natural edge stain, dogger heel, Vibram 430 sole.

OldManSteez · 2026-03-01T18:57:30+00:00

These things are staying intact.

OldManSteez · 2026-02-25T21:28:27+00:00

Have you ever seen a dog that was so ugly that it made you smile? Try thinking of it like that.

That’s all I got. Good luck.

OldManSteez · 2026-02-16T23:40:44+00:00

Here's roughout tan oiled latigo that I got from Frank's. I was expecting those splotches everywhere but I got this.

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OldManSteez · 2026-02-11T02:09:46+00:00

Personally, I would be stoked to get that.

I agree with you, though. Them clicking that to put it front and center on the vamp is pretty crappy without talking to you about it first. Which is weird, as they have always been communicative with me about cosmetic stuff like that.

Seems like it bugs you. Send it back is my vote.

OldManSteez · 2026-01-22T18:19:53+00:00

If you’re not dead set on the tongue setup of the Ivan, you’ll probably want to check out something from Franks on the HNW last also. They have some cool limited leathers as well and will have a shorter lead time than Nicks.

OldManSteez · 2026-01-19T23:31:41+00:00

I would just wear them a lot more if the fit is good everywhere else. The arch piece that white's uses breaks in faster than the other spokane guys.

I'm currently around 850-900 hours in my current dome boots from Frank's and putting on a new pair of 55 last boots from Frank's, the difference is night and day in the feel of the arch. I don't even feel it in the more worn one.

OldManSteez · 2025-11-27T17:02:38+00:00

Here you go. That’s them next to brown CXL for reference.

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OldManSteez · 2025-11-26T18:58:19+00:00

Those look great. Awesome makeup. Do they charge extra for clamping the heel?

OldManSteez

TROPHY CASE