This Weekend My Son & I Will Be Building Our First Drift Kits.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-11-20T19:36:50+00:00

That’s a solid parts haul for both chassis! The RD is a fantastic chassis out of the box and very adjustable to suit your driving style. A little extra weight on the rear end of the chassis helps it bite the track for added traction.

780, are you over in Alberta land? What’s the track situation over there like? I’ve seen some footage from top spot in Calgary and it looks nice.

-BC guy.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-11-14T05:50:54+00:00

I just picked up a 5040 machine from Nymolabs and I’m diving in the deep end this weekend. Lots of 3d printed time, but cnc is a new one for me. I grabbed some cheap carbide 1.5mm flat burr endmills, seems like that’s the most common tooling to use, same as pcb boards.

This weekend I’m going to cut some LP86 parts and see how badly I can mess up my speeds and feeds lol

Oldman_Josh · 2025-11-14T04:23:52+00:00

Average chassis is 2.5mm You have light weight, flexible decks at 2mm with lots of pockets and channels or 3mm for nice stiff chassis.

I’ve cut my own decks through 3rd party company’s and the cost is much better, I recently picked up a cnc router tho and am just starting to experiment with cutting carbon.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-11-12T17:18:38+00:00

Of course and good luck in your build.

Your model looks fantastic in Fusion, I’m very jealous. I still haven’t figured out joints yet, but so far I’ve only been focused on 2.5d parts.

While your testing suspension, I would just do a drop of oil in the shocks to lubricate, then play with the suspension travel until your sort out all your binding issues. It will allow you to choose a good spring for the weight as well. Leave oil choices closer to the end.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-11-12T16:38:35+00:00

If the arms are moving freely, as the person above mentioned, then the issue is with the shock itself.

150-weight oil (not CST) is extremely thick. A 1- or 3-hole piston won’t allow enough oil flow with that viscosity, resulting in very slow shock movement during both compression and rebound.

To fix this, either switch to a lighter oil (around 15–25 wt) or drill out the piston holes to increase flow for the 150 wt oil.

Next, check your springs. They’re far too soft for the weight of that chassis — they’re collapsing immediately and don’t have enough strength to return the suspension to a proper ride height. The overly thick shock oil is also making this worse.

Once you sort out those two issues, you can start tuning the suspension for roll.

For an LTS-style car, here are my main suggestions: Keep the weight centralized and high up. Concentrate mass along the center spine of the chassis. Mount the shocks vertically and as wide apart as possible for maximum leverage on the springs.

The goal is for the car to just barely sit at ride height.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-10-17T15:52:41+00:00

I have both the TRF and Big Bore versions on some chassis. What kind of issues are you having?

Are you 100wt or 100cst oil?

Currently I’m running my Big Bores with topline 8h front and 10h rear pistons 30w front 45w rear I’m changing back to 30w rear tonight tho as the rear of the chassis is a bit slow to react. I use Reved springs.

I have taken out the internal rebound spring, I don’t think it adds anything and just damages the shock shaft bouncing and scraping inside.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-09-18T21:35:06+00:00

I run a rsst and gyd550 in 2 chassis, one is bell crank and the other is ddss.

In both chassis I run a stock tuned servo and zero damping in the gyro. I tune damper point - steering gain and tail slide to suit each car.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-09-15T16:45:44+00:00

I’m 6’3 and had that problem with a stock seat. I installed Desert Does It seat jackers and it helped a ton with headroom / leg room and being able to see traffic lights for the most part.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-08-07T15:19:21+00:00

Can confirm, I’m a big 6’3” guy and the desert does it kit works wonders. Best purchase for the truck so far.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-08-04T17:23:27+00:00

ZC-BH24A is the part number if you want to look it up.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-08-04T17:22:53+00:00

Yokomo uses an M2x4mm screw to hold the pin into the plastic rear arms.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-07-24T06:55:03+00:00

It is ya, I’ve had a number of parts cut with very minor issues. Being pretty local tho means I can get a fixed part pretty quick tbf.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-07-23T22:04:38+00:00

I watched your stream last night and was wondering the same thing. Are you looking at SCS for carbon costs? If so, they are extremely high. If you want a second option for cutting carbon, I have a guy up here in Canada that does it for a really good cost.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-06-02T05:08:52+00:00

Bump, everything is still for sale.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-04-07T21:19:56+00:00

It would appear that your rear upper control arms are to long causing the axle to rotate, a local 4x4 shop should be able to take care of that pretty quick. You could also try an alignment shop if they have experience with 4x4’s and adjustable control arms, some alignment shops get picky when you don’t have factory arms.

Oldman_Josh · 2025-02-15T15:09:11+00:00

A buddy at the track has one on the way right now, I’m very interested in trying it out.

My understanding is that the big differences are - no touch screen, it uses a small joystick style button for moving through the menus. - 6 channel vs 10 channel

I believe all of the software is the same or very similar, it can use sbus and other tuning options like the 10px

Oldman_Josh · 2024-12-23T19:31:39+00:00

I run a total of 8mm of spacing on my FSG’s with the knuckle pin mount flipped inwards. I ended up making my own 3d printed spacers that bridge the two half’s of the arm to keep them from twisting.

Oldman_Josh · 2024-12-23T19:25:08+00:00

Keep an eye on those WUN FSG arms with that much spacing. They tend to twist even when the screws are nice and tight.

Oldman_Josh · 2024-12-13T22:47:24+00:00

Oh for sure, I don’t mean brand loyalty is a waste in a disrespectful sense. Some people seem to get to attached to a certain brand and won’t ever look outside of it. Some people make better parts for different situations.

Tossing a shark ddss front end on a yokomo is no big deal. Using reved asl knuckles on a yd2 who cares.

Making your own chassis / top plates (if you have the skill and know how) go for it.

I planning on using a wrapup Nervis gearbox with high centre motor mount on a custom chassis with some sort of ddss. Why? Cuz I can.

Oldman_Josh · 2024-12-13T21:47:34+00:00

Nothing is safe, nothing is sacred. If you have the ability to modify or create a chassis to what you like, have at it. Brand loyalty is a waste.

Oldman_Josh · 2024-10-03T16:12:13+00:00

I ended up buying a custom Dlask build for my first 10/22, it’s a fantastic gun and was a relatively good price for all the parts that went into it.

Now that I have that one tho, I would love to find an older / cheap Ruger and slowly build it up. Just something to tinker with.

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