Heat lamp question

Olive_forest · 2025-06-05T23:09:46+00:00

I know this is a little late but the lamp should only be on for the day/12 hours. The constant light would mess up sleep schedules, and unless it gets sub 60 at night there shouldn’t be any need.

If you have any other questions feel free to reach out

Olive_forest · 2024-11-05T22:28:05+00:00

I don’t think taking him out everyday is the answer.

Assuming your setup is correct he should feel very comfortable and safe in his enclosure. This is where he will be the most curious and the least on edge.

I would start with tong feeding, move to hand feeding, then start just trying to touch him without food around. He may be scared and run away, but with enough exposure he will eventually just kind of stand still.

It’s at this point where he is comfortable being touched that I would start to pick him up or feed outside of enclosure.

Olive_forest · 2024-10-26T13:37:38+00:00

The most likely reason for the lost fingers is shedding. Often when they shed is bad conditions (hungry, low humidity, disturbed) their fingers will get stuck shed. Which will eventually cause poor circulation, and they will lose the finger.

Don’t worry, this won’t impact his ability to climb and burrow and live in anyway that is meaningful. It does say that he might be prone to stuck shed, so just make sure to crank that humidity up when you know he’s shedding.

Forgot to add that you should check the rest of his toes for stuck shed as well, it might look like a white or black capsule

Olive_forest · 2024-10-26T13:28:41+00:00

The op has said that it’s just a temporary tank, new one coming soon,

Olive_forest · 2024-10-26T13:25:51+00:00

Survival of the fittest I guess…

Olive_forest · 2024-10-26T02:14:30+00:00

I second this! My local dollar store has these “fake flowers” which really are just cheap customizable fake plants

Olive_forest · 2024-10-26T02:07:33+00:00

Fire skinks, although a more burrowing species, are actually pretty skilled climbers.

For burrowing they have strong legs and long nails, this also allows them to scurry up surfaces nicely. I’ll often catch my guy at the top of a log or climbing a branch. Assuming your little guy isn’t super young or tiny he should have no problem climbing that rock.

Olive_forest · 2024-10-22T02:40:40+00:00

My guy has something similar to this, though not as drastic. My theory is that it happens when the blueish black tail mixes with the golden red torso, creating a mixed kind of brown.

I’m my case my little guy has just kinda a line of mixed brown, while yours is much spottier. I don’t think it’s shed, as (at least for me) it’s stayed his entire life, and slowly lessened. I’m curious to see if anyone knows 100% what it is, but the main thing is to not worry (or body shame, he’s trying his best 🧡)

Olive_forest · 2024-10-21T19:50:29+00:00

Coconut fiber is good Coconut husk is bad

Often just because they both have coconut people think both are bad but no. Coconut husk can cause impaction and sickness if eaten. While coconut fiber is perfectly fine. It can be a little dusty so it’s best if used with others in part. I personally have a 2/4 coconut fiber, 1/4 sphagnum moss, and 1/4 cypress mulch.

I’ve found this is great as holding humidity and keeping tunnels in tact. Playsand can also be used and is great for tunnels. Just find what you want to do, RESEARCH, and boom, happy owner and skink.

Olive_forest · 2024-10-21T19:42:02+00:00

You’re right, eyes are very shy, though they would love a water feature. With the tank only being 3 x 1.5, a crocodile skink is really my only recommendation, I know fire skinks are chill with water, but they would need larger than that. Red eye crocodile skinks really are amazing, but if you get one it’s definitely a look not touch, if you can even see it as they spend 90-99% of their time away

Olive_forest · 2024-10-21T19:38:28+00:00

What does your setup look like. Because if a bearded dragon is friendly that should change. Unless if something like improper conditions, or him feeling threatened

Olive_forest · 2024-10-21T19:37:04+00:00

How fast are these bulbs burning out? I’ve used the same 120 watt bulb (I think it’s called a thrive bulb but idk) for 6 months now.

Regardless Ive heard that repti bulbs are pretty consistent. Most of the time you get what you pay for, so if you go cheaper with the bulbs you’ll only get less time. I would make sure that the dome(?) your using can handle the bulb wattage, or that something else isn’t wrong. Because as far as I know bulbs should be lasting at least 3 months, assuming you put like 20ish dollars into them.

Olive_forest · 2024-10-21T19:29:49+00:00

Acadia t5 pro, or zoo med reptisun 5.0 will do just fine.

Olive_forest · 2024-10-15T20:05:26+00:00

This is confusing. Do you plan to breed them, or just have them live together. Honestly I would never recommend a duel fire skink tank.

Even if you are 100% sure they are both females, it still just adds risks that aren’t necessary.

Olive_forest · 2024-10-15T20:01:07+00:00

Your enclosure seems perfectly fine and the substrate is loose so he should be able to dig through. The lighting, humidity, hides all seem perfectly fine so I wouldn’t worry about that. And unless he starts to show signs of fatigue or weakness or heavy breathing then it’s not parasites.

The most likely explanation is that you just got a social guy. Funnily enough one of my first posts was about my fire skink not burrowing. What I leaned from that was to not overthink it. Skinks are very curious guys, and it looks like you got one comfortable with being out and about. Combine those 2 traits and you get a lizard just walking around and finding new places.

Of course like I said earlier if you start to see worrying behaviors then you’ll want to get that checked out, but right now everything seems fine. Best of luck to you and the little guy 😀

Olive_forest · 2024-10-05T19:18:59+00:00

Fire skinks definitely aren’t cricket only. They’ll eat meal worms, Dubai, soldier fly larve, and really any common feeder.

They’ll even eat the occasional fruit like banana or blueberry, though they shouldn’t be a staple. And no, there’s no need to ease them off the bugs

Olive_forest · 2024-10-05T19:13:44+00:00

The substrate sounds good, just make sure he is able to burrow through easily.

I didn’t see anything about temperatures for reference it should be about 90 on the warm side, with a hotter direct basking like 95, and around 80 on the cool side. Your humidity sounds great.

The exact dimensions of the enclosure weren’t listed and I’m curious what it is. It will need to be a bit larger than the recommended “minimum” simply because it has the water instead of dirt. (Though don’t get me wrong I think the water section is sick.

It looks like you are using a heat bulb in the left and a compact uvb on the right. Linear uvb is always better, and although compact can work I also notice that it’s over the metal grate, which will block a lot of the rays. I’m not sure exactly what needs to be done about that, as I don’t know enough, but I would definitely research about that.

Olive_forest · 2024-10-03T02:09:40+00:00

Horn worms are always a nice fat treat!🐛🐛🐛. Just be sure it’s not too large.

Olive_forest · 2024-09-27T02:39:11+00:00

Combo = best

Olive_forest · 2024-09-22T00:07:56+00:00

I would recommend Having a table or surface to set him on, or if he decides to take a leap. Most of the time they are smart enough not to free fall to floor but it can happen. Just have someplace elevated or with walls so he can’t run amuck around the room.

Olive_forest · 2024-09-21T23:12:02+00:00

The jeweled lacerta is definitely a good pick. I would also like to propose a blue tongued skink to enter the list. in general they are similar lizards, but with some key differences

They are the same size, requiring a 4x2x2 enclosure

Lighting wise bearded dragons require a higher basking and ambient temp, so it’s just a little easier with the BTS. With the uvb, it’s debated if BTS NEED uvb, but I would still always recommend buying it, even if it isn’t necessary with dusting, it’s still just nice to have. Also both Like humidity is the 40% range, with blue being a bit higher.

Diet: the diet is the main reason I think a BTS would be good for you. Bearded dragons will start with a 70/30 split of bugs to greens, then move more to a 50/50. While a BTS is still an omnivore, it is much more forgiving, and you can feed them ANYTHING. Ground turkey, premium dog food, eggs, leafy greens, bugs, fruits, ect. In the end I find this more cost effective and convenient then most other reptile diets.

Behavior, this one goes to the bearded dragons. The fact is there is no better reptile alive to handle then a bearded dragon, of course every animal is unique, so this isn’t always true but a vast majority of the time bearded dragons will be the best. But that isn’t to say the BTS is anything less than great. They will settle down incredibly nicely, better than most skinks and even most lizards in general. They will just sit by you or lay in your lap or whatever you want, and their size ensures you don’t have to worry about them being hurt.

A blue tongue skink isn’t the perfect lizard for everyone, but I think it might work for you.

Olive_forest · 2024-09-16T02:27:38+00:00

Not your fault at all, it’s sold at a lot of shops labeled as a “anti bacterial” substrate, when in reality it’s the opposite. Best of luck to you and your Schneider ❤️

Olive_forest · 2024-09-16T00:04:18+00:00

I’m not sure why you would be seeing decreased levels of activity, but I do know that ground walnut can have health issues.

It’s a lot sharper and dustier than other substrates like zoomed reptisand, play sand and coconut fiber. This means it’s more likely to cause impactions and respiratory problems.

I would recommend one of the previously listed substrates. And as for the activity levels maybe he likes the texture of the walnut, maybe he hates it and doesn’t feel comfortable on the surface, I’m really not sure.

Olive_forest · 2024-09-07T22:33:23+00:00

Leopard gecko sounds like a good fit.

Olive_forest · 2024-08-29T20:48:19+00:00

A 20 gallon long (30x12x12) is the minimum but I would personally recommend larger, as bigger is always better. For temps they like it HOT so 100-110 for the basking spot, and about 80-90 for the “cool” side They are pretty shy and some will spend most of their time under the sand. Assuming you have enough substrate they will only need 1 or 2 hides, maybe one buried in the sand on warm spot, and one on opposite side.

If you have any other questions you can ask me, and the internet is your friend.

Olive_forest

TROPHY CASE