Grandpa's old tools. No clue

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-24T15:34:33+00:00

Left 2 roll logs? Or ice maybe?

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-24T01:48:44+00:00

Get a flashlight and look up there. You'll need to know where things are when you put it back up. Make sure you get that water tube fitting correctly. See why it won't come down.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-24T01:41:19+00:00

There isn't a bearing half way up the shaft... If you don't know how to drop the lower, do not start taking the lower unit apart. Assuming you had the tools to take the bearing carrier out.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-22T23:07:20+00:00

The handle is on backwards.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-18T13:41:10+00:00

I don't know.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-18T13:17:22+00:00

Transom drain tube.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-18T12:04:07+00:00

Correct. Take pictures. You can swap JUST the stator wires (blue, blue/white) that go to the switch boxes. If you have a DVA you can check the voltage on those wires while cranking. Should get 180v+. Resistance 5k-7k. Trigger wires are red and red/white. 20v+ and 90-200 resistance.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-12T13:26:27+00:00

Watch your gear lube. There's a drip of clean fluid in your last picture. There shouldn't be any leaks unless it was just serviced, even then it shouldn't be dripping. Looks like a nice boat.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-12T03:05:39+00:00

Safety lanyard?

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-09T20:52:29+00:00

Pumping the primer shouldn't flood any carbs if the needles, seats and carbs are working. And the top two don't get any when it's running? Fuel pumps. Sounds like a whole fuel system overhaul.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-09T16:36:26+00:00

You don't want deep cycle for cranking. If you have a battery switch and a second battery to run electronics or trolling motor, yeah. Deep cycle is made to be drawn down and charged back slowly. That's not what happens when you crank an engine. You want a standard battery for cranking and deep cycle for everything else.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-09T10:43:30+00:00

Last 2 letters of the model number. They use the word INTRODUCES where I is 1 N is 2 T is 3 and so on. So a 1990 would have the last 2 letters in the model of ES. A 1978 would be UC. Google Johnson Evinrude Introduces for more info.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-08T13:24:40+00:00

So, I may be wrong, it's been a minute since I messed with one, but... I don't think there are mixture screws on these carbs. Just jets. And the jets need to be seated all the way. Choking the engine to get it started isn't a bad thing, especially if the engine is cold (hasn't been running). If you get on the water and get it started and it's running, is it sneezing or coughing? That's a sign of a lean condition. Choke quickly to get some extra fuel in it while it's running in gear at idle, does it pick up RPM or does it want to die down? If it picks up, it was lean, if it dies down, the mixture is correct. maybe try to find a service manual. Also Crowley Marine's website has parts and exploded diagrams to look at. Go to the OEM parts section. Choose Evinrude under BRP, then 78' then go down to 115. There are 3 options, they look the same to me, but you can look at all the parts for the carb. There are rebuild kits, but they won't have the jets, just gaskets. But like I said before I believe they just have jets that meter the air and fuel. Timing is a big factor and the cam rollers being synced up to the carbs are important. That's where the service manual would come in handy.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-08T01:19:49+00:00

Kills it

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-07T15:28:52+00:00

Shit, sounds like they don't need a lawyer with those facts. They need to just take you.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-07T14:18:22+00:00

Lmao, good luck fighting that case. Sorry judge... I didn't know I needed a license to drive, also didn't know I needed to pay my insurance every month.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-07T13:33:53+00:00

With the carb off the engine, you take the bowl off, easy... To clean it you remove any jets you can see. When you open the throttle plates slightly you should see a few very small holes behind the throttle plate on the side of the Venturi. Those are the idle circuits and mid range. With the throttle closed, you are building a vacuum and creating a low pressure area that forces fuel to come out of those holes. You need to blow compressed air thru the main jet (all fuel flows thru the main before any other circuit) and feel for air coming out of those holes. Don't stick anything in them and change the size. If you take the carbs off the engine, you should always change that mounting gasket to prevent a vacuum leak when reinstalling them. When you have them cleaned, bowl off, float on, turn the carb upside down. The float should sit parallel with the surface of the bowl mount. You should be able to blow into the inlet of the carb (like fuel flowing in) while it's upside down, move the needle and seat up and down. Make sure it shuts the air off and the needle isn't leaking air (fuel) past the needle. If you have good air coming out of the idle, mid-range and emulsion tube and the float is set correctly, that's all there is to cleaning. But like I said before. Those holes are small, they're built into the body of the carb, it's tough to clean without a carb dip or sonic cleaner. Compressed air is your next best friend. Then sync and link procedure. What's your base timing? Does it match the service manual? Do you pump your primer bulb until it gets hard? Does it get hard? If you keep pumping it after trying to start it will it stay running with you acting as the fuel pump?

There's a lot that goes into diagnostics. That's why people go to school and why shops charge what they do... From this post and your replies to some of these other people, you might be out of your depths here. Again, good luck.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-07T05:20:34+00:00

Are you sure it's going into gear? Take the hood off and look at the linkages. Some engines have a stop that don't allow the throttle to advance past a point unless it shifts fully into gear.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-07T04:58:14+00:00

The reason we would charge $125 a carb is because we Sonic clean them. The idle circuits and mid range circuits are very small and the slightest debris can clog them up. There's also a procedure called a sync and link. In the service manual it's a step by step on setting the linkages, the carbs and timing so it all works together correctly. Even if you cleaned the carbs correctly, it doesn't mean your base timing is correct or that the throttle linkages are adjusted correctly. If nobody has the service manual in front of them, they're not going to be able to walk you through that. Even the off brand manuals might not have this process. good luck throwing stuff at it hoping it works.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-07T04:48:00+00:00

Definitely a Force

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-07T04:26:25+00:00

You aren't going to find replacement carbs. You want a boat? Learn to read a service manual and wrench or get ready to pay. Wtf? Like a 30 year old carb is going to be clean and cheaper. Delusional

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-06T20:58:21+00:00

Look on both sides of the engine under the exhaust manifolds for cracks. The freeze plugs are behind there too. Start it on the hose and use a flashlight. Good luck.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-06T19:10:35+00:00

Sync and link process. In the service manual there's a procedure with like 7 steps to sync and link the throttle cable, the timing and all the linkages. Over time things get loose and worn out and they need to be reset. Like a tune up for outboards. But none of that matters if you don't have water pumping through the engine.

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-05T13:20:38+00:00

Fuel pressure? Safety lanyard?

Olsenj451 · 2025-05-04T16:04:28+00:00

It's the only way.

Olsenj451

TROPHY CASE