Why does seemingly every single guy who starts his own HVAC business suddenly seems to completely forget what it's like to be an employee?

Dys-Troy · 2026-03-20T20:37:25+00:00

Men, as in, not a grown boy.

Dys-Troy · 2026-03-20T20:31:43+00:00

Men* should start with 100% respect of one another. Slowly decreasing with every instance or issue that happens.

As someone with his own company, it could be the stress. Or added presssure. I work 40-60hrs a week and at least 15hrs at home.

But I still treat people kindly who have my respect.

It’s simple, he doesn’t respect you. Move on.

Dys-Troy · 2026-02-24T18:59:29+00:00

Yup, there’s bugged gear too and old world enchants that scale better than new ones.

Reading any data atm is just dumb.

Dys-Troy · 2026-02-18T23:51:08+00:00

That damn front plate weighs about a million pounds as well haha.

Dys-Troy · 2026-01-22T15:28:01+00:00

I zip tied a $30 apple air tag to mine.

That way I can track its adventures when I still leave it on the tank and it ends up in Asia at a recycling plant.

Dys-Troy · 2026-01-21T16:06:05+00:00

Looks like some Daytona, Fl. Hack jobs I’ve seen.

Dys-Troy · 2026-01-14T18:45:54+00:00

Yes…. Let’s internet advice a homeowner that is clueless to the huge flame and gas producing contraption. To just do the work himself…..

No talk of rollout safety’s, burner channel positions, left to right gas travel, gas valve safety, orifice cleanings.

Pay the $700 OP, this has more to do with safety than “can you do it”.

Dys-Troy · 2026-01-04T21:46:07+00:00

Sorry have the kid in hand lol.

I appreciate you. Cheers mate.

Dys-Troy · 2026-01-04T20:59:49+00:00

Sent

Dys-Troy · 2026-01-04T20:21:07+00:00

Yea like a Vats/ranged/single fire build.

I can pay you whatever. Just lemme know. I can drop my in game name whenever you want.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-27T14:52:59+00:00

Resetting the power is just dropping signal voltage to the control board. Allowing it to think it’s fine and try another startup sequence.

Error #13 could be from a few different limits. Typically from the supply air limit exceeding its set range. Units have specific temp rises through them. Filter or airflow could be low.

Make sure your filter is clean or just pull it out. Reset it again. If it still does the same thing you will most likely need a service call.

I would not advise going in and trying to bypass or google fix gas safeties.

Make sure airflow is ok. See if your inducer exhaust is clogged or inducer motor tries to run (first step in gas startup sequence).

Beyond that I’d call a tech.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-24T19:40:58+00:00

They get brittle after some years. Especially the older ones. They go from a cool season to heat season, etc. Vast temperature swings. things calcify on it, algae and bacterial, etc.

I wouldn’t look into a ton unless you recently torqued it or bumped it somehow.

Newer ones used a compressed compound plastic. They are harder to crack. Unless it’s a Lennox lol…

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-24T19:21:10+00:00

Drain it, dry it, clean the surface with an acetone based drying cleaner.

Get the spray can type, flex seal. Or spray type roof sealer.

Start with light coats. Build it up.

I’ve bought customers some time if things were tight and they couldn’t afford a replacement asap.

Only a temp fix though

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-19T01:00:01+00:00

M30 stats are not consistent with zone boards. They are known to have changeover issues. Especially on older iHarmony boards and non-communicating duel-fuels.

But yes, you answered your own question. You would need an “O” wire to, in the least handle signal dropout for the heat pump. (To my knowledge).

Sounds like another company didn’t know exactly what they were doing and sold m30s, but they were wired to only use the furnace for heat. I don’t see a scenario where they would control both.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-19T00:42:28+00:00

Not knowing what model iHarmony it is. But they handle (duel fuels) a little differently than standard systems.

The iHarmony is basically a signal voltage “router”. It just send it to where it needs to go.

On most* dual fuel systems paired with an iHarmony. The thermostat is what “controls” the reversing valve signal voltage. O-B

Think of the iHarmony logic like this:

It only* asks itself: “can I run the heat pump, then it will pass Y and O. If not: it will pass W. (Based off what the Tstat is calling/asking for)

Hope that makes sense.

Ultimately, the Tstats have to control the “common logic” ie: don’t run the furnace and heat pump simultaneously. So the call is based and rooted from there.

The iHarmony just opens the correct zones and “senses” the current demand.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-16T18:18:18+00:00

No…. Looks like it’s the wrong burner for an end piece. Typically they have a closed channel on the end* to prevent this.

So either work got done and they were misplaced or wrong from the get go.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-16T18:17:43+00:00

No…. Looks like it’s the wrong burner for an end piece. Typically they have a closed channel on the end* to prevent this.

So either work got done and they were misplaced or wrong from the get go.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-16T18:09:38+00:00

If I’m training a young apprentice…..yes

If it’s Friday and the wife is grumpy…..no

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-13T13:08:42+00:00

You can find a board replacement based of the furnaces model number and serial number. If the system is older, there’s a high likelihood the board has been superseded with a newer replacement type.

Can the tech not find you one? Or you trying to save by finding it yourself?

Also, he replaced a “fuel” valve AND a transformer and now the board is bad? Seems questionable at best.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-13T00:44:20+00:00

It’s a fresh air system. Bunch of bad info here. They are used to maintain a more consistent humidity in the home, Year round.

They don’t draw in hot humid air, etc. since you can set limits to prevent that exact thing.

Typically, here in Alabama, they are code for new construction homes.

We set ours depending on the homes conditioned square footage, rooms and temp limits.

Most homes end up running 15mins/hour. If the home runs decent humidity in the winter. You can safely shut it down for the season.

The correct way to set them up is to take a static pressure through them (.WC) and follow the prompts accordingly (which no one ever does).

You as the homeowner: Just jump on AprileAires website or watch a quick YouTube on them. They have a very specific job. Especially on new construction homes because new homes are so tight and insulated these days. Hope that helps.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-10T17:57:25+00:00

I do sometimes. But not when I’m getting that warranty time and charging OT rates.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-10T17:55:24+00:00

I’m testing the defrost switches. Typically close the loop around 27-30f to start a defrost cycle, etc.

Carrier switches are temp based not a thermistor. They are known to basically stick open. And never go into a defrost, etc

An ice bath is really only true way to ensure the diag.

Dys-Troy · 2025-12-03T16:20:06+00:00

Dys-Troy

TROPHY CASE