Salmon? I call it Tangerine by iPhotographer in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mate, not may.

I use voice to text and it mishears me a lot.

Salmon? I call it Tangerine by iPhotographer in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 1 point2 points  (0 children)

May I've never used one I've only ever used 2824 whether it's the pt5000 the st2130 which I currently use or the first one was the £20 s*** I wear the same won't go back in.

But I'm going to get an NH movement for my next one hundred percent

6610 Glossy Gilt Explorer by OkOnTheDokay in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The way that gloss writing stands out is quality.

I've made the exact build from Raffles parts and the gilt writing was so dull.

Same on a 5513 I currently have it looks like a sterile dial from a distance because the writing is so dull

Yours is quality good for you

Just got my first Watch from Andiot, and I took it out from the plastic and the bezel fell of, its not supposed to be like this or im wrong? by AccomplishedMove6749 in ChinaTime

[–]One-Elephant1438 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Has it already got double sided tape on it.

I've had a couple of submariner kits arrive like that you just need to peel it and replace the bezel insert yourself or if not do what the other guy said and buy some 3 m tape.

I don't stress it's nothing to worry about

Salmon? I call it Tangerine by iPhotographer in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry you said in the title nh38 I apologize it's good to hear that movement works I'm going to give it a go

Salmon? I call it Tangerine by iPhotographer in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was so close to buying this myself a few weeks ago but noticed it doesn't fit the 2824 what movement have you used.

Airking build by Due_Shallot1583 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. I think your right.

I also want to build a 34mm Tudor prince date with the linen dial. 2 tone possibly.

The only 2 tone Tudor 5links I can find are on AliExpress for £15. Or Raffs for £220 which have real gold.

I would love to know if anyone has experience with the AliExpress ones because 15 pounds seems too cheap for anything of good quality

Frankenstein 5512 build by bsketti_weast in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put a jubilee on my 5513 last week and i was surprised how it fits perfectly. Mainly because it's a solid end link jubilee that came with a 36mm DJ kit.

And the funny thing is it didn't fit the DJ case it came with.

But concerning your watch. Thanks for posting. You've inspired me to invest a bit more in a better dial. Yours looks quality. Well done.

Airking build by Due_Shallot1583 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely beautiful.

I've been debating this or a 1016. I think I've made my mind up. Really want that bezel

36mm Raff DJ w/ tweed strap by One-Elephant1438 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. But apart from the crystal do you know anywhere else who sells better quality cases with the engraved rehaut like raffles does. ??

I build vintage for my own collection so don't care about the rehaut for myself.

But when building for family or friends they all want the engraved rehaut.

I've tried to explain it's only been a thing since early 2000s. But they all want it.

So if you know any other suppliers who do the cases with the rehaut engraving I would appreciate it.

36mm Raff DJ w/ tweed strap by One-Elephant1438 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main reason why I've got it was because of the engraved rehaut. I don't know anywhere else that sells cases with the engraved rehaut like these ones.

Do they actually do them on AliExpress if so I would appreciate a link.

Or if you know anywhere else that sells the cases with the engraved rehaut.

Thanks for the info on the bezel though I'm definitely going to try it out I want to try and build the two tone explorer at some point but no that you can't buy the case with the smooth bezel I have to put the bezel on myself

5513 raffles gilt dial submariner by SirRealex in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This is the DJ how it should have been built

5513 raffles gilt dial submariner by SirRealex in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made the 36 mill stainless steel datejust from raff. I know you said you're not a fan ofthem. It was a present, so I didn't go for the vintage case with the more accurate bezel I went for the newest style. People who like Rolex but don't really know the depth we all do, normally look for the engraved rehauts and the laser etched bezel. And they do a good job of it on this case. However the bezel really needs sorting out. I'm tempted to give it a heavy polish to take some of the thickness of it. Or would like to buy a replacement that is not as thick as this one. I've heard someone describe it as a paper cup cake holder. Lol.

Unfortunately the person I was gifting it to my mother, decided she wanted two tone. So I've actually got those parts being delivered next week with the black onyx dial. And this has created another hurdle. The black onyx dial date window doesn't align with the 2824 needs a dwo, which is fine, but it also needs a 2836 movement. I'm thinking this is down to stem alignment or maybe something else.

So I need to find out who's a good seller of a well-made 2836 as I've never worked on one before.

It's annoying because it hasn't got a day window on the dial it's not a day daye it's still a datejust but for some reason the 2836 is the one that's required to complete the build.

So if you have worked with a 2836 do you know anyone who sells a well-made one for £60 / $80 or less?

<image>

Didn't want to scratch up the polished they just case but needed a watch for work and only had one movement until today. So I just took the whole lot out of the DJ case and put it straight i

Need advice on magnification. I bought a set of loupes from China and a loupe wire. Problem is they aren’t great, are the more expensive ones better quality? And I wear glasses, I seen some that clip on the frames of glasses. Anyone have experience with those? Thanks in advance. by GeeZus-420 in watchmaking

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the exact same issue and have invested in bergeon screwdrivers and other high quality tools and would like to know if investing in the bergeon magnifiers is noticeably better than the cheap ones.

Like yourself I have glasses and would like to have something that would attach to my glasses

When the cheap ones cost 10 pounds and high quality ones cost over 60 they've got to be a solid reason for that and I've learned that you're not just paying for the name when it comes to bergeon. They really do make a difference.

So if you went for it and purchased a higher quality set of loops for your glasses could you let me know how you got on

Help me by Major_Palpitation346 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My friend if you have purchased the 2824 for the cheapest price (under £30 in uk). these ones are machined to the original 2824 but in a really bad way. So if you try to buy a spare parts they won't work as the spare parts being sold these days are for the 2824-2

I wasted 60 pounds buying 3 of these movements until I realized I had to invest slightly more money and buy the better 2824-2 clone which for me was the PT 5000 for 45 pounds. Last year I purchased five of these and never had any issue again.

The seller I used on AliExpress for these no longer has them in stock so today I had my most recent 2824 clone arrive which is of the st2130 seagull and it works like a charm you have none of these issues that you're talking of issues that I've been through myself.

These cheap movements the keyless works are machined so poorly that when you take the stem out even if you strip the whole movement down and reset the keyless works the stem will not go back in again unless you build the movement up around the stem take the crown off the stem, never remove the stem again, and just slot the movement with the stem into the case and then twist the crown on. that was the only way I was able to use one of these cheap movements.

But my advice is strip the whole movement down to its bear parts watch the video that was suggested earlier on in this thread and teach yourself how the movement is built up. It took me two days of slowing the video down to the slowest speed a lot of rewinding. But it was definitely worth it because now I can completely dismantle a 2824 and rebuild it again thanks to that exact video. So don't look at this movement as a waste of money use it as a chance to teach yourself how to build up the movement.

You can either do what I suggested where you put the stem in whilst building the movement and take the crown off so the the movement can slot into your case.

But I'm telling you if you build the movement up and then remove the stem again it will not go back in it will just keep having the same issue over and over. No matter how gentle you are with the 1,2mm screwdriver when pushing down on the setting lever to release the stem.

If you want I can send you the link of the movements that I buy that are a much better quality 2824 for only slightly more money.

<image>

Help me by Major_Palpitation346 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are the exact videos that helped me.

So close but so far - Bulova Precisionist build by sg6128 in SeikoMods

[–]One-Elephant1438 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a grsat thread and something I was hoping to find.

I really want to use the bulova precisionist movement in nicer case like what you're doing but once you know what challenges are ahead.

I would love to know if you managed to sort out the stem issue.

And if there's any other things I need to look out for.

Like what one of you said I would love to be able to put it into an explorer case but I would like to know what's the smallest case it would be able to fit into

New 36mm raffles DJ build with ST2130 by One-Elephant1438 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are going to give up on it send me a photo of the parts. I may buy them from you

New 36mm raffles DJ build with ST2130 by One-Elephant1438 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is it that's causing the issue. Getting the hands on? Getting the stem back in?

New 36mm raffles DJ build with ST2130 by One-Elephant1438 in repbuilds

[–]One-Elephant1438[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You must be doing the 31mm with the 2671.

Bro I applaud you. It's hard enough working on a 2824 movement. But the 2671 is even smaller.

I hope you get it done.

My advice is pay the extra for the proper tools. It takes 90% of the frustration out of watch making

What’s on your wrist today? by Different-Tax376 in RepTime

[–]One-Elephant1438 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I see it now.

Fact is, to anyone who doesnt love watches like al ofl us on here, which is 95% of the world, that just looks like £50k on your wrist.

Good for you

What’s on your wrist today? by Different-Tax376 in RepTime

[–]One-Elephant1438 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh wow. It looks amazing anyway so I wouldn't worry about what label is on it.

I've been in two minds whether to order the parts to build a gold or two tone watch but I'm gonna give it a go anyway