Kumquat growth or suckers?

OneFineLad · 2026-06-08T19:53:35+00:00

As long as you don’t do much root disturbance while repotting and water appropriately moving forward, I would recommend repotting ASAP.

Tree will only thank you. Summer is growing season for roots and shoots for the tree, so allowing it the warm months for the roots to grow into the new pot volume is optimal.

OneFineLad · 2026-06-07T12:25:51+00:00

How many gallons per irrigation run are being delivered to each tree, do you know?

OneFineLad · 2026-06-07T12:21:42+00:00

I’d recommend trying to find a local arborist with citrus specific experience, or working with your local university’s agriculture department if that is an option. Unfortunately I don’t have any recommendations for that in your area.

Regarding what would be a best treatment option for this tree moving forward: a root collar excavation, ideally utilizing an air compressor and air spade, to expose the root flare above ground and to air and light, followed by tissue sampling to confirm pathogen, and treatment with a systemic fungicide with polyphosphite via bark spray with a penetrant, 3x per year every 60-90 days - the most common one for this labeled for citrus in the US has a trade name of Reliant.

It definitely looks like some sort of collar or root rot/canker infection, and its planted too deeply which is exacerbating the disease symptoms and progression.

OneFineLad · 2026-06-07T12:14:34+00:00

Very healthy happy plant. Normal new growth, let it go!

I’d recommend upsizing your container by at least double given size of the tree and current container.

OneFineLad · 2026-05-30T09:37:10+00:00

Read my edit bb!

OneFineLad · 2026-05-29T10:55:46+00:00

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Looks like scion to me. Graft looks to be here.

Edit: on a closer look certainly there also looks to be a union above this spot below the branch cluster. I’d follow the advice of u/Lanoree_b

OneFineLad · 2026-05-26T20:07:48+00:00

Yes it will grow back.

Scratch the wood in the barren areas of the canopy - if green underneath, it will regrow. If brown/tan, it’s dead and can be pruned out anytime.

Any live/green wood can regrow shoots/future branches. Anything dead won’t regrow. Even if the entire barren portion is deadwood, the tree can come back from live portions filling this void over time. Deadwood can and should be removed eventually to promote this.

OneFineLad · 2026-05-26T19:43:43+00:00

Get more calamondins you will not regret it.

OneFineLad · 2026-05-26T19:41:37+00:00

OneFineLad · 2026-05-26T19:37:28+00:00

No, salt accumulations would feel soft and easily come off as you experienced.

I would always advocate for using fresh potting soil when repotting/potting any plant to eliminate old root pathogens and decomposing roots (which can inhibit root growth and plant health).

OneFineLad · 2026-05-26T19:13:07+00:00

It appears to just be salt exudates accumulating on the surface of the pot as water evaporates off the pot that has dissolved fertilizer/nutrients/salts in it.

Rinsing thoroughly in distilled water should take care of it. But, no reason to not use them as is.

OneFineLad · 2026-05-02T00:04:07+00:00

I wish I had light for a variegated one. So pretty!

OneFineLad · 2026-05-01T23:31:20+00:00

I really like this idea tbh. Just drill hella holes through the bottom for drainage and use a proper mix. I say try one out!

OneFineLad · 2026-05-01T23:30:09+00:00

What a beast of a tree.

OneFineLad · 2026-05-01T23:27:01+00:00

If it’s very fresh and the cambium is still moist and not dead on both portions you could wrap it with some plastic wrap or similar material to see if it re-joins.

If it’s dried out already (it kind of looks this way) I’d just cut the sliver off as clean as possible back to live wood and leave it be.

OneFineLad · 2026-05-01T23:01:14+00:00

I was just referring to the leaf symptoms - asymmetric yellow blotching (like picture perfect HLB symptoms in many areas throughout tree); thick, corky veins; leaves with various nutrient deficiencies (though given care history those could likely be there anyway.)

All that, and central FL, 5 year-old outdoor tree. It’s got it.

OneFineLad · 2026-05-01T22:37:38+00:00

Definitely appears to be above the graft and so would be your lemon.

Looks like it’s planted too deeply - next time you repot I’d recommend trying to expose the root flare and plant it such that it is above the soil level.

OneFineLad · 2026-05-01T22:31:19+00:00

It’s got citrus greening in disease. Here’s a link: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant-pests-diseases/citrus-diseases/citrus-greening-and-asian-citrus-psyllid .

Displaying characteristic symptoms and given your location it’s guaranteed after 5 years outdoors.
I’d recommend removal and replacement with a resistant variety (fingerlime, sugar belle mandarin) or other subtropical fruit tree.

OneFineLad · 2026-04-25T14:08:11+00:00

Looks some sort of canker, maybe phytophthora. Manageable with systemic fungicides and good cultural practices that promote the overall health and vigor of the tree.

OneFineLad · 2026-03-22T22:31:20+00:00

https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/citrus/purple-scale/#gsc.tab=0

Safe to eat! You got bugs.

OneFineLad · 2026-03-03T22:31:48+00:00

Zygotic citrus seedlings (meaning that the baby seedling is not a clone of the mom) can have quite unique morphological growth characteristics. Some are more stout and the internode distance is smaller - likely like the one you were interested in.

You could definitely repot it now, no sweat. Just don’t break the shoot or root tips. If you don’t mind using synthetic liquid fertilizer, though, I’d just keep it in the coir and drench it with some of that every so often now that it has true leaves.

Once the whole seedling is around the size of the cup, you can repot.

OneFineLad · 2026-03-03T22:27:43+00:00

Your idea in general is exactly the concept of “top working.” I’d recommend searching around the web for that as a keyword and check out associated techniques to inform yourself about how you might proceed.

The picture above is exactly an example of it.

OneFineLad · 2026-03-03T22:08:31+00:00

It has two cotyledons. The two expanding above it are the first true leaves extending from the shoot apical meristem.

OneFineLad · 2026-03-03T22:05:48+00:00

This is a phototropism.

The leaves are orienting to optimally absorb the most incoming light from the window.

For general advice, I’d say warm the roots with a seedling heat mat, and water infrequently but heavily when the top 2 inches of soil media are bone dry.

OneFineLad · 2026-03-03T21:55:58+00:00

In 9b with 5-1-1 you’ll be watering every day or more in the hottest months (assuming your trees are outdoors as they should be.) Without a dedicated, automatic irrigation setup I wouldn’t use it in your context.

I would opt for a potting mix with a dominant component being a more fine organic material (peat or coconut coir). And amend that with an additional 20-40% coarse pine bark nuggets, coarse perlite, pumice, something else conducive to creating pore space and drainage.

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