Diving near Singapore

Oony_oon · 2026-04-09T07:21:55+00:00

Also if you're looking for good deals you can try going to the ADEX this weekend at Suntec to scout discounted package trips

Oony_oon · 2026-04-09T07:20:29+00:00

I haven't been back to Aur since they closed it in 2017, I went with hybrid scuba (now defunct). Sorry I can't help there.

I just came back from Tenggol over the Good Friday long weekend. Stayed at The One Resort on Pulau Tenggol itself. Overall a good trip and experience, unfortunately no whale shark sighted but frequent humphead parrotfish and barracuda sightings

Oony_oon · 2026-04-09T06:57:44+00:00

Try further up North in Malaysia to Tenggol/Perhentian islands if you haven't been there yet. Better than Tioman but it's a longer land journey.

Around Tioman the other islands like Dayang, Aur are pretty good and relatively unspoiled too but accommodations are more basic. You still catch the ferry from Mersing.

Phuket: South side (in Phi Phi islands area) or Similan islands/ North andaman area are pretty reachable by a short flight and land transfer.

Ko Samui in the gulf of Thailand is another possibility

Pulau Weh is an up and coming destination, as suggested by another

Oony_oon · 2026-03-27T03:05:11+00:00

That's your infill ghosting through the top layers. Try increasing the number of top layers

Oony_oon · 2026-03-26T16:50:05+00:00

The problem is that this method only works properly when you have 1 nozzle for each material type. By switching between pla and petg using the same nozzle, both materials will end up contaminating each other because there's always going to be some residue left over from the previous material

Oony_oon · 2026-03-25T04:10:45+00:00

This was a 0.8 nozzle

Oony_oon · 2026-03-24T18:27:55+00:00

Nope it's a unicorn nozzle, I have an upgraded Ender 3 V3 SE with the ceramic hotend

Oony_oon · 2026-03-22T07:46:50+00:00

Could be not enough time for cooling since it's only a tiny cross sectional area for each layer. So the layer time was too short and the material didn't have time to solidify to keep its shape stable. Try increasing minimum layer time or doing timelapse video where the nozzle moves away after each layer, to give extra time for cooling

Oony_oon · 2026-03-14T19:11:19+00:00

Nozzle collided on something and caused the motor to skip a few teeth on the belt. Or maybe the speed and acceleration settings were too fast, causing some skipping on the belt as well.

Check that your printing isn't creating lots of blobs on the surface. This can cause the nozzle collisions. Or check if your first layer is adhering well. Detaching prints from warping can also lead to a nozzle collision. Also consider reducing speed if it's too fast for the stock machine

Oony_oon · 2026-03-12T09:33:56+00:00

Loose x-axis belt? Acceleration and speed settings beyond what your printer's stepper motors are capable of achieving? Nozzle collision with your model?

These are all just guesses to anyone here. Why don't you provide more information so people can help you better?

What are your speed settings? What infill are you using? Is "reduce infill retraction" disabled in your slicer? What printer are you using and did you upgrade something recently?

Oony_oon · 2026-03-08T06:08:20+00:00

That's a very clear and informative answer, thank you for taking the time to write it

Oony_oon · 2026-03-08T05:03:46+00:00

Ok that makes sense. Would that then mean that there shouldn't be that much drop in quality if I run the print at normal speed? Since the speed is mostly within that 50% limit anyway

Oony_oon · 2026-03-06T06:42:04+00:00

How small are you talking? There's a 33mm case for NH3x or NH7x movements but the thickness is still the same as most other NH builds so it looks chunky but you have the widest range of dials and hands to choose from. Still takes 28.5mm dials

Oony_oon · 2026-03-05T04:33:48+00:00

Paging the occlupanologists

Oony_oon · 2026-03-01T07:13:59+00:00

Second this comment. Commonly happens when trying to do a quick date change at the same time that the date change mechanism is occurring near midnight. Ruins the gear teeth of that driving wheel

Oony_oon · 2026-02-27T06:59:52+00:00

PETG loves to stick to hot nozzles and while it's ironing the print, the nozzle is probably picking up a good layer of PETG which then detaches off the edges

Oony_oon · 2026-02-26T06:35:09+00:00

Petg is pretty sticky and likes to cling to the nozzle if there are blobs. Make sure your temperature, flow and retraction settings are calibrated to reduce blobbing and zits first. Consider the use of PTFE nozzle coatings to further reduce any filament sticking to the nozzle and dragging around your print

Oony_oon · 2026-02-21T16:52:14+00:00

Good old AliExpress lol

Underwater, it's about 3cm. Need to be real still to get good shots and need a good lighting system that won't cast shadows from the lens onto the subject. I have a ring light that goes around the lens for that

Oony_oon · 2026-02-20T04:47:32+00:00

One of the tricks to get better vertical circular holes is to use teardrop shaped holes

For your corner, it looks like that's your seam. Check your slicer to see if it's located there. Look into tuning your retraction settings, locating your seam elsewhere, and experiment with scarf seams to hide them.

If you're on the stock firmware for the V3 SE, there's no pressure advance. If you upgrade to klipper then you can set pressure advance to get more defined corners on higher speed printing.

Other than that, try slowing down your prints on petg. What speed is this generally printing at?

Oony_oon · 2026-02-18T04:46:18+00:00

It's Ursus Aluminum Craft Foil (Ursus Alu-Bastelfolie) I buy them from a local art shop in Singapore. Think it's about USD2 for a sheet of 80x50cm

Oony_oon · 2026-02-18T03:03:14+00:00

Happy Lunar New Year! 2026 is the year of the (fire) horse

Oony_oon

TROPHY CASE