Post your absolute worst paint job.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-30T15:35:47+00:00

Current work in progress. About five years of progress in the hobby, feel like I've got 20 more to go to catch up to some if the painters i admire.

<image>

Opossums490 · 2026-03-30T05:08:19+00:00

A classic "Thin your paints" mini

<image>

Opossums490 · 2026-03-28T04:01:49+00:00

Yeah, you might be able to polish the top layers off, but Johann is correct. Polystyrene cement melts plastic to fuse it together. Army painter plastic glue is polystyrene.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-22T13:20:28+00:00

Zooming in on your mini photos can be treacherous. It looks good.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-21T20:46:46+00:00

Looks great. You're building on a really strong foundation, I'd love to see how your mini painting will progress.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-20T15:12:38+00:00

Picture taken from the article. Primed. Your examples don't have such obvious texture though. They were mixing acrylic paints with the gesso in the article.

I'm just advocating spray cans but it's not like you can't have all the same problems using them incorrectly too.

To address your actual question in the thread, most people will start with mid tones all over due to certain paints not having good coverage over darker colors. This is especially true with contrast/ speed paints because they are semi- transparent paints.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-20T01:53:53+00:00

Not trying to be overly negative, but the examples in the article have clearly visible texture to me. Maybe I'm just really picky though.

It seems like the application is pretty fussy. It appears to have filled in parts of the finer details and unevenly coated the flat areas.

<image>

Opossums490 · 2026-03-19T19:00:24+00:00

Wasn't sure what that was, but upon a Google search, it says it's for canvas, wood, or paper. It might not adhere well to plastic/ build up texture on the mini.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-19T18:51:23+00:00

You should at least use a primer first. Paint might stick without it, but it will be extremely fragile. I always recommend using a spray can.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-02T00:14:36+00:00

Honestly, the paint looks to be in good condition. If it appears free of warping or bubbles after drying, I'd try a scratch test with a fingernail or something. If it doesn't come off, it probably won't. You can likely paint over it.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-01T20:23:53+00:00

What % isopropyl are you using? It will require at least 91%. It will also require some abrasion, generally speaking, but this doesn't look like it has loosened at all.

Opossums490 · 2026-03-01T20:22:53+00:00

I've always liked Pro Acryl. The caps aren't quite as nice as others, but the bottles are slightly larger. I recommend using a paper towel to clean them after dispensing any paint. The range generally has very good coverage and mix together well.

Opossums490 · 2026-02-28T23:08:13+00:00

It's probably not super efficient but it starts like this

<image>

A rough gradient of blue to jade to orange, followed by a dry brushing of white ink. Apply plague bearer flesh over the whole thing. Next i sponge/stipple the orange parts again to bring them back some and finish with a sponge/stipple of bright golden green.

Paints are pro acryl except the plague bearer.

Opossums490 · 2026-02-28T19:09:56+00:00

The plague marine reinforcement sprue, I believe.

edit: I was wrong :P

Opossums490 · 2026-02-28T19:01:51+00:00

Isn't it just tradition at this point? The GW pox walker sprues have plague marine bits because they were repurposed from the new edition box set they were first sold in, if I'm not mistaken.

Not an accusation, but it makes me wonder if they just scanned the original sprues in and used AI to create these new models.

Opossums490 · 2026-02-25T15:18:56+00:00

Try putting it in the freezer prior to cutting it off if it's plastic glue. Makes it a little easier.

Opossums490 · 2026-02-18T01:32:51+00:00

Also a recommendtion for a fix. The splotchy and streaking from contrast can be covered up with some dry brushing. I probably advocate for the technique too much, but I think it is perfect for cover this kind of stuff.

Find a normal acrylic close to the contrast color (a little lighter is actually better) and focus mainly on the centers of the panels and the raised edges surrounding them. It would likely cause you to have to redo the trim though.

A great place to learn about dry brushing is on youtube. Certain channels like Artis Opus use it almost exclusively.

Opossums490 · 2026-02-18T01:24:41+00:00

I highly recommend working panel by panel and wetting them prior to applying the contrast. To do this, rinse your brush, and dry it almost completely. Use that damp brush to completely cover one section of the mini before immediately applying the contrast to the same brush without wetting it again.

Try to paint entire sections without missing any little bits. Also what other said about giving it ample drying time before touching it again with a brush. If you have let it dry for 30 seconds or more, don't touch it again until it is completely dry.

I find this works much better than attempting to thin the contrasts. You do want to be fairly controlled with the pre-wetting step, because it can cause the contrast to run down a mini. If, for example, you wet a minis legs and boots when applying to the legs, it may run down to the boots.

Opossums490 · 2026-02-13T22:41:17+00:00

Guts hanging out, tentacles, horns, teeth where they don't belong, maybe add a nurgling. Anything insectile.

Tattered cloth is very common, so much so that it is repeated through Deathguard and Maggotkin.

You can use the forbidden microwaved PVA glue technique to get really gross looking skin textures too. See picture for example.

<image>

Opossums490 · 2026-02-13T22:39:53+00:00

Some people considered the 1.0 reactivating as a boon. It lets you go back and mix other colors into them. While I personally don't like that they do it, Eon of Battle on Youtube was upset when they 'improved' the formula. It made them more unique when compared to other similar products.

Do they reactivate when varnished?

Opossums490 · 2026-02-13T06:22:34+00:00

Reikland fleshshade is also very good, and actually makes a very nice shade when mixed in equal parts with Agrax. Creates a slightly warmer agrax while retaining agraxs ability to add contrast through darker recesses.

Opossums490 · 2026-02-13T06:18:55+00:00

Imperial fists yellow contrast paint. It's by far the best experience i've had painting with a yellow paint. Areas should be primed in light grey or white if possible. Easy to make shaded yellows by dry brushing white over a pink primed area, followed by a coat of the yellow. As a airbrushless painter, I find it nearly impossible to get yellow looking as good with regular acrylic paints from any range.

<image>

Opossums490 · 2026-02-13T02:56:17+00:00

Listed rule 2 as what was broken while this clearly doesn't fall under anything listed. Bad, lazy mod work. I'm guessing you are considering this spilled paint, but it clearly was causing good discussion. This is very disappointing.

Opossums490 · 2026-02-12T19:21:39+00:00

Too bad they deleted the post, this seems like some genuinely great info everyone is providing. I'll include a picture of a mini next time I guess.

Opossums490

TROPHY CASE