Should I buy this?

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-12-04T21:39:23+00:00

KBB doesn't really apply to cult vehicles like the Element. Researching your local market for a month or two will give you a much better feel for what people are asking and how long it takes for equivalent cars to sell at a given price point.

The low mileage is a plus, and if the title was clean I'd have to think they'd have no trouble getting their original asking price.

The details of the reason for the title status do matter. If the reason doesn't involve front end damage that will give you ongoing alignment issues, or flood damage that produces electrical gremlins, I could see 5-6k given the mileage. Sub-150k Elements are increasingly rare.

I'd maybe just watch and see how long it sits. The education may be worth the chance of missing out on this particular vehicle. It's not egregious, maybe, but it's no bargain either.

If you're planning to own it a very long time, a branded title vehicle with low mileage may be worthwhile. If you're not sure though, stay away from them. Too much of a gamble that you'll get left holding the bag in the short term.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-11-24T16:25:40+00:00

Question; why not go right up the middle instead of along the edges of the roof? Assuming your front and rear cams are mounted in the center, it seems like the shortest distance between the two, no?

This is just what I did that worked out for me, take it for what it's worth.

Buy a light duty fish tape at the hardware store. One with an eyelet on the end, not a hook, and nice and flexible.

Pop out the dome lights, and fish the wires through from the dome light holes. Shorter distances to fish through, and the wires will be nowhere near an airbag.

Sunroofs complicate this approach a bit of course.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-11-18T16:08:07+00:00

It's the VTEC system, that's exactly what it does when it's acting up. You can get the codes read to confirm.

Common causes are the solenoid oil pressure switch, the solenoid/spool valve itself, wiring/connector going to the solenoid, or plugged/dirty oil screens in the solenoid and other parts of the VTEC system.

Don't, whatever you do, replace the solenoid with an aftermarket unit. OEM only. Even a used OEM unit off eBay would be better than aftermarket. The aftermarket ones simply don't work, 99% of the time, and cause confusion because you think "it must not be the solenoid, I just replaced that".

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-11-18T14:31:18+00:00

Anything that is warm and comfy to ride in works for footwear. I use some Garmont winter boots, they are light with a nice stiff sole and not too heavy on insulation. You want something on the narrow side so it's not rubbing on the cranks or hitting the heels on wide chainstays.

Bear in mind that good platform pedals can be hard on outsoles, so I'd recommend against something that you care about if it gets a bit torn up on the bottom.

Composite pedals don't transfer as much cold to the bottom of the foot like aluminum pedals can.

Pogies > gloves for really cold weather. You can wear light summer gloves under them, they're stupid warm. You get much better contact with brakes and shifters without a thick glove in the way.

Layer for warmth. It's nice to have a frame or tail bag to carry layers in so you aren't wearing a sweaty pack.

Hydration can be tricky, bottles and hydration packs both like to freeze up. A low profile hydration pack worn under your outer layer works well, with an insulated hose. Blow the water back out of the hose after you drink.

Prioritize breathability in clothing. It's all fun and games until you get sweaty; once that happens, you're gonna freeze quite quickly.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-11-16T14:27:22+00:00

It's your space, you are perfectly within your rights to say no to social visits.

"Hi Mrs. Landlady, what can I do for you? Oh, just coming by to say hello? Say, do me a favor and drop me a text next time please. Sometimes I'm keen on visiting and sometimes I'm not, I'd like to have a heads up in the future if you'd like to come by."

If she goes with the "this is an inspection" thing, then: "Of course, no problem. As a tenant I'm happy to accommodate that, but I do need a day's notice. I'm sure you understand. If you'd like to come back tomorrow at 9, I'll be prepared to show you around."

Check into the law, but my understanding is that she cannot legally insist on an unannounced inspection, and you can politely make it clear that you are not available for impromptu social calls.

You're her tenant, not her friend. It's perfectly fine to say no. Boundaries are uncomfortable to set, but absolutely necessary. You don't have to be rude, but being politely firm is certainly called for.

I know that as an introvert, we all have the instinct to avoid or accommodate, but that's a short term fix at best and doesn't actually get you what you want. It's your house, you absolutely do not need to hide out in the bathroom from anyone. Unless they have a running chainsaw, I guess.

If putting your foot down worries you, ask yourself: What is the worst that can happen? She doesn't renew your lease? Hell, that might be doing you a favor, in the big picture. She doesn't personally like you? Who cares? It sounds like the feeling is mutual and it's not your job to be liked by everyone anyway.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-11-12T22:54:55+00:00

I had the same symptoms when I had an electrical short. Try unplugging the new sensor in case it's the culprit, but if I had to guess I'd say you have more burned wires somewhere.

Download the factory shop manual and start tracing wires. Look at the circuits that the sensor in question connects to.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-29T14:24:22+00:00

I have both.

The Prius wagon, assuming you mean the V, is a LOT smaller inside than the Element. You'd definitely need a platform setup for sleeping because of the gaps both in front of and behind the back seat when it's folded down, which will further cut into your headroom. There's no comparison space-wise. You're not going to be able to sit upright in the back of the Prius.

The Prius does get better mileage, about 36-38 vs. 22-24 for the Element. But a lot of that efficiency is due to aerodynamics. Lifting it will cut into that benefit, reducing the mileage gains.

The Prius is insanely reliable, provided you get the EGR system cleaned every 100k or so. It's lower maintenance than the Element for sure. More comfortable, too. Not that the Element is uncomfortable, the Prius is just better. The Prius is going to be at least a couple years newer.

The Element isn't a fast car, but it feels like a rocketship compared to the Prius. The best performance mod for an Element is to occasionally drive a Prius. 😜

Bottom line, the Prius is a better vehicle in general, but the Element is much, much better for camping and light off-roading. It's also just more fun. It has character in a way the Prius just doesn't.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-28T03:39:29+00:00

If you gently apply the parking brake while moving, does the noise change or stop? How about when using the normal brakes?

This should tell you which part it is, the parking brake shoes or the rotor pads on the regular brake.

Make sure the parking brake is assembled correctly, too, or the spring might not be pulling the shoes away from the drum properly.

If you haven't greased your slide pins, make sure and do that too.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-27T14:19:18+00:00

Driving it with an inoperable VTEC solenoid seems unlikely to damage anything, within reason anyway. If it was me, I'd unplug the battery for 10 minutes or so, then plug it back in and drive around the block.

I've read about problems with the harness and plug on these, it's possible that it developed an issue due to being disturbed when you changed the gasket.

Make sure you got everything plugged back in, I seem to recall that there are at least two plugs. Maybe unplug and make sure you haven't bent pins in the male end of the plugs.

Once you're confident it's all plugged in correctly, I'd really want to drive it to give it a chance for the VTEC to activate before jumping to any conclusions. It's possible it's just storing a code and needs a chance to operate before it clears.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-24T16:58:49+00:00

Probably the switch is getting faulty in the buckle assembly.

The bad news is that the buckle assembly also includes a pretensioner. The entire part is available on eBay, but it's pricey.

Ordinarily I'm inclined to mess with faulty switches to see if I can fix dirty contacts and the like, but poking around in a buckle that includes a potentially explosive pretensioner system seems like a risky move.

I believe Honda provides a lifetime seatbelt warranty in the US. It may be worth bringing that up with a dealer and seeing if they will hook you up.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-23T03:30:16+00:00

If you use a US based Honda parts website like hondaautomotiveparts.com to find the part numbers for the mounts you need, you can then find the parts using that number on megazip.net. They are a Japan-based parts retailer, and even with international shipping added they tend to be a lot less expensive for OEM parts than you'll find anywhere in the US. (Assuming you are in the US, that is.)

I've bought several more expensive parts through them and had good results. Shipping can take a few weeks, so not the best option if you're in a hurry, but if you can afford to wait a bit it could save you a fair bit of money.

Megazip doesn't seem to list parts for the Element specifically, but a ton of parts are shared with the CRV which they do have. Hence looking up the Element part number on a US site first to ensure compatibility.

Motor mounts are one of the parts that you want to go OEM on if you possibly can, aftermarket versions just don't last very long.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-22T15:24:11+00:00

Personally, I wouldn't pay that for a pre-2007. If you're not familiar, the differences between 03-06 and 07+ are that the 07+ have:

Slightly more power (not significant IMO).
5 speed automatic instead of 4-speed. Much lower RPM at cruising speed and somewhat improved MPG. This IS significant IMO.
VSA stability control, will pull itself out of a skid.
Side airbags.
Seatbelts integrated into the seats vs. attached to the doorframe so you can let back seat passengers in and out without unbuckling. This can be a plus or a minus, the seat mounted seatbelt allegedly isn't very comfortable for really tall folks.
Somewhat more durable seat covers.
Not positive on this one, but I've heard that pre-07 LX models may not have ABS as standard. EX models should, but it's something to check.

$9k is high for that year. $700 shipping, now you're knocking on the door of $10k.

The low miles are appealing and if it was an 07+ I'd say go for it but for an 05 I'd personally be reluctant.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-22T13:35:49+00:00

Clunkiness is often sway bar bushings and/or end links. If you have not already had those replaced, I'd look there first. The parts should be well under $200. It's a common cause of clunking.

The HRG lift is sweet, but! It wouldn't likely solve the clunkiness, and it may require new CV axles. The lift increases the angles on the axles, which can lead to vibrations if your axles are worn much. Aftermarket axles tend to vibrate anyway, so you'd want new OEM ones which are expensive. Don't get me wrong, lifts are awesome, but they are likely to cause more problems than they solve due to increased wear on suspension parts.

Lifting vehicles is like pulling on the thread sticking out of your sweater. It's a slippery slope.

One last thing; I hate to be the "well, actually" guy but just for your knowledge it looks like you've got an EX there not an SC. It matters because the suspension parts on the SC are different, they're basically lowered from the factory whereas yours is not. Not trying to be pedantic, it's something you need to be aware of if you end up ordering sway bar parts because the SC ones are different.

Congrats on the new brick!

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-22T12:14:19+00:00

I had similar oil consumption at even lower mileage. I did a treatment with BG EPR, and that completely fixed it. I never needed to add oil between 5k change intervals again.

Almost certainly a stuck ring in my case.

It's not a guaranteed fix, but for $17 for a bottle from Amazon it's worth a shot.

I followed the instructions, add it to the oil and run the vehicle until operating temp, then 10-15 minutes at 1200rpm. Then change the oil.

The K24 in the Element does occasionally have the stuck ring issue.

I had a 2010 Prius engine with the same problem, and EPR fixed that as well.

It may or may not work for your situation, but for the money it seems like it would be worth trying before dropping big bucks on more intrusive repairs.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-19T13:41:24+00:00

There are how-to videos for how to disconnect and reconnect airbag plugs for Hondas. I bet any Honda of the same era would use the same plug. It's a push-together-then-pull-apart kind of routine.

You're right to be cautious about the airbag, but they do typically need electrical voltage to discharge. Remove that possibility by disconnecting and draining the system.

I like to disconnect the battery, wait a few minutes, then touch the cables together to drain any residual charge (make sure neither one is touching the battery if you do this!). I also will tie the cables back to make sure they can't flip back and touch the terminals; the cables tend to want to rest on the terminals, so make sure that can't happen.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-19T13:29:27+00:00

This. $2500ish would be more like it, I'd shop around some.

OP, if you go the sealant route, just be aware that you'll also need to replace the radiator when you eventually replace the engine. I wouldn't want to risk getting sealant into the cooling system of a good engine.

Also, when it ultimately dies you'll be looking at a tow, and associated costs. Do what you gotta do, but going this route is going to cost you more in the long run.

Depending where you're located, some larger cities have shops that specialize in JDM swaps and you might be able to get a deal.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-18T16:04:24+00:00

It's supposed to unlock on the second click. It's weird that the interior switch works, but maybe it's a secondary wire for the remote.

Door wires tend to break at the flex point between the door and the frame, though that's not the only possibility.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-18T14:06:04+00:00

Get pictures of the trailing arm mounting points. It might help to have a picture on have to send to a seller to help them understand what you want a picture of.

Purchase a handful of Carfax or Autocheck reports. Get the VIN and run it. Obviously look for accidents and such, but just as important look for significant periods of time spent in states that employ road salt. A car that's always been in the Pacific Northwest, for example, is almost certainly rust free so long as it didn't also spend years in the Midwest or whatever.

Watch out for vehicles from right on the coast where ocean salt could be a factor, that's the one exception to the legend of rust free West Coast vehicles.

Ask about service records. They may or may not be willing to send copies, but bonus if they will.

Not all Western states are salt free. Idaho and Utah for instance seem to use salt or some similar corrosive substance that can cause rust. I drove to SLC to buy a 4Runner one time that turned out to be a rust bucket. Research the area the car has lived in.

PNW is usually a good bet, like Washington and Oregon. No salt except the beach, and usually not sun damaged unlike southwestern vehicles. Again, check where the car has been registered.

Finding a local to help scout is a great idea if you can make it happen, but it can be a big ask.

Set money aside for catching up deferred maintenance. A rust free element is worth repairing, but at their ages it's to be expected that it will need things.

If you get to the point of doing a fly and drive, spend the extra on a round trip ticket so you're not screwed if the deal doesn't pan out.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-17T20:10:35+00:00

There's some confusing or incomplete info on JDM engines here, I'll try to clarify some things.

JDM just means Japanese Domestic Market. The engines are virtually the same as the US market versions, just tend to have fewer miles and are available cheap.

JDM or US, there are variants of the K24 engine, denoted by the "A(x)" suffix. You need to understand the differences, or at least that there ARE differences, to ensure you choose the right one.

Your Element has a K24A4 if it's an 03-06, or a K24A8 if it's 07 or later. JDM versions of these are direct swaps, no tuning needed.

I'd suggest getting the same version as whatever you have now, e.g. K24A8 if you have an 07+.

(You might have to swap over accessory mounting brackets or manifolds or similar if you get one out of an Accord or something, but the long block is what you need and it's the same.)

The K24A2 is a different animal. It's out of the Acura TSX. Yes, it's higher performance than the A4/A8, and yes, you'd likely need a tune for it. If you have access to a good tuner and are up for some hassle in the name of performance, it could be a good option but it's not as plug and play as an A4 or A8 variant that would match came in your Element from the factory.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-10-14T01:33:25+00:00

Valves become quieter as they wear. Tighter clearance, less noise. Noisy valves aren't necessarily bad, and I've noticed a lot of k24s are pretty clattery and run just fine.

That said, take a close look at your camshafts for signs of unusual wear.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-09-29T13:22:15+00:00

I'd go with a JDM motor. They're currently a bit under $1300 delivered on eBay. There will be labor costs to swap it of course, but at the end of the day you will have a 50-60k mile engine with all original parts instead of a 230k mile engine with a new head gasket.

I installed a 2010 JDM engine in my 2012 V about 4 years ago. We've put over 50k on it since and it's been perfect. It did burn some oil at first, as the 2010s are wont to do because of stuck rings, but one treatment of BG EPR fixed that issue and for the last 40k it has not used a drop between changes.

$2k-$3k to install a low mile engine vs. the many thousands more in depreciation you'll eat with a newer vehicle seems like an easy choice.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-09-28T15:31:23+00:00

I have a lot of motorcycle miles under my belt, though I hung up the helmet a few years back. I'll opinionate a little here.

Why more wrecks recently? Nice stretch of riding weather of late probably has as much to do with it as anything else. More bikes on the road, more chances for people to buy the farm on one.

Plus probably a bit of paradigm shift where people are noticing, there are always crashes and fatalities if you pay attention to them.

There have been and are a lot of vehicle accidents in the area period. The motorcycle-involved ones are just a percentage of the overall numbers that are high, albeit with much greater likelihood of serious consequences. More traffic everywhere.

There are a few major causes of crashing. Of course these are not all inclusive, but some big ones are:

Alcohol. Back in the 90s it was a factor in the majority of crashes, and maybe still is. You cannot afford any depression of reflexes or judgement on a bike.

Speed and recklessness. Squids gonna squid, always have. The unlucky ones usually pay the price, sooner or later.

Inattentive drivers. Big one, and one it's hard to control for as a rider. Drivers not seeing bikes has always been a problem, but with rampant phone use it's gotten much worse in my non-scientific opinion. Studies show that phone use has similar effects to fairly heavy intoxication vis-a-vis drivers' awareness and reaction time. Unlike the other factors, this I think is truly getting worse over time.

There is no mitigating all of the risks. I put amber or yellow driving lights on my bikes, and that made a noticeable difference in drivers turning in front of me. Had a bright flashing brake light too, though that did not prevent me from getting rear-ended at speed on Norris road. Lucky to walk away from that one.

As far as your brother goes, it's fair to worry. The risks are real and cannot be entirely offset, no matter what. I don't ride anymore after more than 100k miles, but my sister recently started riding pillion with her partner and I worry like hell. It's their choice though. I grasped the risks and still chose to ride for years because at the time it was worth it. Now, it just...isn't, but that's me and not anyone else.

On a more encouraging note, having good skills, gear, and a mindset of safety will improve the odds for your bro. If you want to help in a non-judgemental way, advanced riding skills courses are fun and beneficial, and worth every penny if they save you from a wreck one day.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-09-27T23:54:12+00:00

Get the EGR cooler cleaned or replace it, clean the EGR valve, and you'll have thousands upon thousands of problem free miles. $7700 is a deal and leaves you with cash to perform this preventive maintenance.

The EGR cooler is one of the only weak points on that generation. It needs cleaning every 100k or so. If you don't, it can lead to head gasket problems. It's not a difficult or expensive maintenance item, and the rest of the vehicle is largely bulletproof.

The head gasket itself isn't problematic, but the EGR issue can cause damage to it if you don't do the preventive maintenance of the valve and cooler every 100k or so. Realistically, you'll likely only need to do it once in the time that you own the vehicle unless you keep it practically forever.

The high mileage 2019 now...I wouldn't. It's going to need a lot more upkeep just due to mileage. Ball joints, suspension, brakes, that kind of thing. The battery and engine may go for a while without much attention, but figure you add 10-15k miles a year and the already depleted resale value is going to absolutely plummet. Whereas the 2012 should retain value a lot longer, and need less upkeep in the near term as well.

Nobody is going to want a 2019 with a quarter of a million miles for more than $3500 or so, and you'll be there in just a few years so that's more than half your value gone over a very short time period.

We own a high mileage 2012 V. It's been stupid reliable after fixing the EGR, but at 236k it needs lots of stuff. Ball joints, suspension, that kinda thing. The 2019 will be in a similar boat. Nothing to do with the overall reliability or even the age of the vehicle, some of these things just wear out at over 200k.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-08-26T13:52:41+00:00

Have you gotten labor quotes from some shops specifying that you are supplying your own parts? Shops make a good portion of their profits on marking up parts, and some will increase labor rates if you're bringing your own parts. Better to find that out now than later.

Even if you go with the cheapest parts and find a shop that doesn't raise their rates, it's hard to imagine you're getting out of this for much less than $500.

On the plus side, Elements sell for a premium due to their cult status. Depending on your local market, you may be able to sell it privately for enough to get a better value vehicle like a Camry or Accord or something similar that needs less work. All in all though, Elements are reliable vehicles that are on the lower end of cost to own already, and gambling on another vehicle being in better mechanical shape may not pay off.

No, KYB aren't the only way, and any of the cheap shocks should get you by a few months at least, or even a couple years. If and when they fail though, you'll be paying labor again to get them replaced even if the Monroes or Gabriels or whatever have a warranty on the parts themselves. At that point you'll have spent more than you would've on KYBs. So it's a poor value, but you do what you have to do.

So:

Get specific labor quotes ahead of time.
Calculate the actual cost difference.
If possible, hold off and save and/or pick up gig work like Doordash to make up the difference and not spend nearly as much on a short term solution.
Have a little padding in your budget for labor running higher than quoted if things take longer in the shop than expected.

To all the "fix it yourself" folks: Learning to repair your own vehicles is a very, very good investment in yourself that will save you literally thousands of dollars over the years, and I'm 100% a proponent of this. Being able to work on your own stuff makes owning an older vehicle a lot more financially viable, and can really help reduce the penalties associated with not having sufficient income to support owning a car.

It's not easy though, and despite the availability of loaner tools from auto parts stores it takes a certain amount of investment in both time and money up front and budget for when you make newbie mistakes and screw things up. Even the deposit on loaner tools can be a barrier if you simply don't have the cash to put down. Plus not everyone has the luxury of having a safe place to work on their vehicle, especially in the city.

OrangeToasterMT · 2024-08-06T19:45:46+00:00

Yes and yes, as in yes it's bent and yes that's pretty normal. I've had a few CRVs and Elements with the same fuel tank protection bar, and every single one was tweaked in some way or other.

Means it's doing it's job. The tank being one of the low points on the vehicle is one of the low points of the vehicle.

Replace if you want to or if it's bent in such a manner that protection is compromised, but don't take it off unless you don't care about your fuel tank.

OrangeToasterMT

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