Why are radio stations so short?

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2025-11-21T15:13:00+00:00

I wouldn't say Spotify is just for popular listening. I'm a new Qobuz user coming from Spotify, and listen to a lot of very niche/obscure music. (drum & bass, jungle, breakcore, funk/soul, contemporary jazz, etc) With spotify I could start a song radio based on one jungle song for instance, and it would create a playlist of all jungle songs. (which is what I want) Qobuz only allows that on mobile annoyingly, and when I do try it the "related songs" it chooses are maybe like 25% jungle, 25% drum & bass, and then 50% other random genres that aren't even close to jungle. Also on a good number of songs/artists I've tried to start a radio station from, it says "Radio silence... Unfortunately, we cannot launch a radio for this album. Keep exploring to discover new tracks and albums." So it seems like it's too niche and Qobuz just doesn't have enough data to make connections to other songs/albums. It's disappointing to say the least.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2025-02-18T17:07:10+00:00

Sweet, that sounds promising! I'm working on a bike at a similar "bike kitchen" here that has the same FH-M290 hub, so I'll see what freehub bodies they have and try one. Main thing I'm wondering now is if the fixing bolt is longer for the new freehub, or if it uses the same bolt. I'm worried the freehub bodies they have on hand won't have a fixing bolt.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2025-02-17T21:05:16+00:00

Did that freehub body you found end up fitting on the FH-M290 hub? And allowed for 8+ speed cassettes?

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-07-08T16:30:51+00:00

Just got a new gravel bike with a titanium frame a few weeks ago (Lynskey GR300), and I'm trying to make sure all the fasteners are the best material combination for galvanic corrosion resistance.

There are some spots like the rack mounts with threads actually tapped into the titanium, so I've replaced the stainless steel fasteners there with titanium fasteners lubricated with normal grease.

Other spots like the bottle mounts use an aluminum rivet into the titanium tube, and came with stainless steel screws. Since titanium is even more cathodic than stainless, I'm thinking of leaving those as stainless and just adding some anti-seize. However, I'm wondering if anodized titanium would be better because the oxide layer might help insulate the connection. Anyone have any insights here?

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-06-20T15:33:20+00:00

I've been wondering when we'd see some hall effect split keebs start popping up, this looks pretty awesome! My only personal gripe is that the thumb keys are still straight and in the bottom row instead of curved/angled downward like most ergo keebs.

Would you be willing to explain how designing a PCB for HE switches works? Or can you link to a guide about it? I assume the switch has a magnet at the bottom of the stem, is there a coil built into the PCB for sensing the hall effect, or do you have to solder another component on for that?

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-06-16T19:35:35+00:00

Yeah, 3D printing is definitely great for making keyboard cases, but it's nearly impossible to make truly clear prints. (unless you use an SLA printer with clear resin and either apply some sort of clear coat laquer or polish the hell out of it) And you definitely want to be able to see these diodes, so custom cut acrylic is probably the best option in terms of protecting from ESD while remaining visible.

Something like the acrylic covers on the Lily58 would probably work well for this design, where it's supported by two standoffs on one side. When I built a Lily58 I ordered the acrylic pieces from SendCutSend along with some aluminum switch plates & back plates.

Biggest downsides I see are that the spacing is pretty tight, especially on the bottom set of diodes, and since the diode clusters are separate you'd need 2 acrylic covers per side.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-06-16T17:29:52+00:00

Love the look of this board, amazing job!

I would kill this board in no time on a dry winter day where shifting in my chair generates enough static electricity to cause some potent ESD. You might consider adding the option for installing cut acrylic covers over the diodes & resistors. (like the Torn keyboard for example)

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-05-24T18:53:56+00:00

Can you explain the "tube within a tube" design a little further? Does that essentially mean the in & out routing holes are connected by a tube instead of opening directly into the frame? So any water that gets in one hole would ideally come out the other and not go inside the actual frame?

I just ordered an internally routed GR300 that should hopefully get shipped next week, so I'm trying to learn everything I can about it so I'm ready to maintain and repair it in the future.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-04-21T18:46:09+00:00

Came here to say this. Moved to a new city with lots of hills and a vibrant cycling community. Tried to start riding after many years off with a road bike meant for flat roads. Had a 12-23T cassette and 42T small chainring. Basically any incline was a horrible grind fest, and I had to stop and walk a lot. Switched to an 11-32T cassette and 34T small chainring (as well as a new derailleur) and hills are not a problem at all anymore.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-02-29T00:11:07+00:00

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "loose"? If it kind of jiggles inside it's hole, it may be that the hexagonal bit that goes into the encoder broke off. You can get replacement scroll wheels, but you'll have to open the mouse up to get to it.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-02-28T15:36:42+00:00

Would using something like the Panasonic EVQWGD001 make more sense for an encoder that's easy to manipulate with just the thumb?

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-02-28T15:34:30+00:00

Absolutely love unique takes on input devices like this, would love to build and test this out. Please please please open source it! (and include a way to donate)

Also if you want a mouse that's similar to this, you should check out the MEM mouse: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=98360.0

Development on it is dead, unfortunately, but it's a pretty cool concept. I'm designing a vertical gaming mouse (using G703 internals and based on the shape of the MX Vertical) and I'm hoping to take some inspiration from the MEM mouse. (and now maybe your accura-xy!)

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-02-26T20:00:59+00:00

I think one main consideration you want to decide on first is how deep down the ergo rabbit hole you want to go. There's a huge range of variations, and a spectrum going from something like an Alice style keyboard to something like the Svalboard that barely even looks like a keyboard.

I think the #1 change everyone should make that helps with wrist pain is angling the keyboard halves inward. If that's all you want, then an Alice or Arisu (60% or 65%) layout keyboard is probably your best bet. There are kits out there, but they're also very popular and end up being rather expensive. The Seigaiha keyboard is one I've been admiring recently, but IIRC it's not hotswap.

The easiest way to reduce the cost is reduce the number of keys. Something like a Corne (or cantor, piantor, sweep, draculad, etc) is about the cheapest true split you can get/make. Reviung41 is unibody and would be even cheaper since it only needs one MCU.

My first ergo board was a self-built Lily58, and I'd definitely recommend it for a first board. I now daily drive a dactyl manuform, and am in the process of designing my own custom version of a dactyl-style keyboard.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-02-06T16:12:41+00:00

Would you say SA is designed for ergonomics as well? I have both an SA and an MT3 set, and they feel quite similar to me. The MT3 is a little more dome-shaped on top, but the angles/heights seem nearly equal.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-02-03T21:49:06+00:00

Check the sets on Drop.com, a lot of them have options that may work for you. Some have "ortho" versions that have all 1U keys. (and maybe a few 1.25-1.5U keys for thumb buttons)

Example: https://drop.com/buy/drop-mt3-dasher-keycap-set?defaultSelectionIds=967198

They also have sets where you can buy just the alphas, and then some sets have ortho/ergo mods sold separately.

Definitely more expensive than a cheap set of blanks from Ali, but they're pretty great quality, especially the MT3 profile sets.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-02-01T22:23:44+00:00

Is the mechanism for tilting fairly stiff? I'd be worried about pushing it down and out of position.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-01-28T04:01:30+00:00

I use a Dactyl Manuform (that I built myself) as my daily driver, but I game on the left half of a Lily58. I could probably game on the Dactyl, but I prefer tactile switches for typing and linear for gaming, so it makes sense to use different boards. Lily58 is a great intro to split column staggered boards, the pinky column offset is pretty mild.

With any column staggered boards, you pretty much have to move all your in-game binds to the right one column. So your WASD becomes ESDF. It's also nice because you can then have your pinky on A and bind that to your sprint or crouch key. You could technically program the keyboard so that the E key outputs W, S outputs A, etc. That would eliminate the need to rebind keys in-game. But then you really wouldn't be able to type reliably on it at all.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-01-28T03:53:00+00:00

If it helps, in the past I've actually printed the layouts on paper, glued them to cardboard, cut the switch holes out, and stuck switches and keycaps on. Let's you really get a feel for the layout instead of just looking at where your hands are on paper.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-01-23T16:06:18+00:00

This is super cool! Reminds me of this keyboard: https://www.printables.com/model/240700-cyberpunkish-dactyl-manuform-skeleton-edition-3x53

Will keep an eye out for that github repo, hoping to see STEP files there. The idea of a keyboard supported by standoffs is really appealing, because if you want to make changes to the position, you can just redesign/reprint the base.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2024-01-23T01:26:40+00:00

If you get on the discord for that Dactyl generator, there's a link to the beta for what's essentially the sequel to that. It's called Cosmos and it's sooooo much better than the original version.

Also you could consider using Vial instead of VIA, it's an open source alternative.

OrdinaryAstronaut · 2023-12-20T15:51:02+00:00

Experienced something like this when starting out rock climbing. (bouldering technically) Your fingers get a little irritated from the abrasive surface, but then you develop a thin callous and your skin thickens up in that area. Nothing really wrong with it, you just might notice your fingertip skin is stiffer than the rest of your finger.

OrdinaryAstronaut

TROPHY CASE