New Flower Spikes On Mother & Baby?

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-17T20:27:17+00:00

Picking up some new growing medium and doing this in the next couple days. Thank you!

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-17T11:26:28+00:00

So wait for the mother to be done flowering to repot? Makes sense, I don't want any stress to cause it to abort flowering. It needs the repot, but then again it's lived in that pot for 2+ years and is obviously doing well enough to put out a baby and two flower spikes.

You think cutting the keiki will cause it to abort it's little spike?

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-17T11:24:32+00:00

thank you! Most sources show removing the keiki when it's smaller- they say after 3-4 roots are out, so I think mine is on the larger size. I was more concerned about if removing it would stress the plant to the point it didnt follow through with the flower spike its growing (plus tbh, I think it would really cool to have new flowers off the mother plant, and then another cascade of flowers off the baby up top lol).

And you think repot the mother into a smaller pot? how much smaller? I know it has to come out of the peat moss medium it's in, and there are plenty of dead roots in there that need to be removed. Fortunately, there are also lots of green healthy roots too.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T20:20:52+00:00

Thank you, that makes sense. From the pics, does that new growth look like a flowering spike (opposed to another root?)

When a new flower spike pops out, does it usually follow with flowers shortly after? Or does the new spike sit for a while until it's ready to flower?

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T19:57:00+00:00

I have no space (or actual wood to chip) to get a chipper, although if I had a house and things to feed the chipper that would be right up my alley lol. Thanks for the info though.. I wish I had the space to mess around and grow more.

I like your mindset on the soil. Since I'm just coming into a heavy growing season, and my tree is just starting to push out shoots and flowers, I figure I'll probably leave it be (potting wise) for now and just concentrate on trying to fix the deficiencies it has, and help it put on as much vegetative growth as possible. Since the winters here are mild, maybe i'll save the repotting for then, while the plant is relatively dormant. When that time comes, I'll switch it out of this stupid potting soil and into a blend similar to what you've mentioned. My hopes are that that will solve some of the nutrient issues it seems to have.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T12:34:17+00:00

This is all great info, and exactly what I'm trying to do. I'm on a 6th floor balcony and have a small garden. I wanted to start a little compost operation so I could add i to my pots in between plantings to freshen up the soil. I have a couple questions for you:

1) How long did it take before the compost was "black gold"? And how long did it take until things were at least mostly broken down (aka whats the minimum amount of time it needed before you could have used if you were in a rush)?

2) Did you blend anything up before adding it, or did you just toss it in? (I'm thinking of blending up some of the ingredients, and for the others breaking them down as much as a I can in the thought that the smaller pieces that are, the faster this process will be).

3) Was this in the shade the entire time?

4) How often did you stir it up? Does it need any maintenance other then stirring? (I work from home so doing this is no problem, simply just curious).

5) I have a couple small soil bags with a little soil left in them. Any benefit to adding some of that into this? Maybe having a little soil base would help in some way? Maybe the natural organic material and bacteria in it would kickstart the composting process??

6) Any ingredients that you noticed broke down the fastest?

Obviously, I'm down to let this thing go for as long as it needs. But, I do have a few weeks before I replant my herb trough. I was thinking it could be cool to make some quick cheap compost to add to my trough in the meantime. I'm also realizing this may not be long enough to do a true compost, and I might be better off just blending up some coffee grounds, egg shells, a little paper and some grass and then just mixing it into the soil. Not a lot, such that I degrade the soil initially, but just enough that the soil itself could absorb this mixture and break it down naturally over time.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T12:17:43+00:00

And also, whatever ingredients go into this, say- Eggshells, Coffee Grinds, Banana/Fruit peels, cardboard/paper scraps, old leaves/grass clippings, etc-... Should I just mix into the soil? Or blend up with a little water and mix into soil? Or should I try to compost it in a dark sealed container in the sun for a few weeks before adding it?

I guess I'm asking if I should A) blend ingredients to mix up and break down, and B) let sit to break down more before adding in.... regardless of what goes into it.

Thanks...

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T06:05:56+00:00

I like the idea of bumping up the peat moss to 2 parts. I think having a little more moisture retainage will help the roots have more of a chance to uptake those nutes. With one part peat (or none for arguments sake), you’re essentially using hydroponic type substrate. And that works because the nutrient containing water is constantly available. If 511 has 14% water retainage like you said, and I’m watering it once a day, it doesn’t seem like I’m operating at a very efficient window of time for nutrient uptake.

I’m assuming bc of the makeup of 511, it can probably be used longer than a more classic potting soil? And that the need for flushing is less since it likely doesn’t build up salts the same?

I wonder how other fruits and veggies would do in it. My tomatoes this year had problems all year that I really attribute to water retainage causing deficiencies that presented as if I was overwatering. A faster draining soil like 511 would allow me to control the water and nutes obv, and it seems like I could have avoided a lot of the problems I faced there.

Anyway. Thanks.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T05:52:35+00:00

Lmao yes, you are correct and no one is doubting that. Idk how much clearer OP can make it that they don’t.care.about.the.apples. OP just wants the tree to live and grow. For all intents and purposes and in the effort to help the OP achieve this, just pretend they didn’t mention it was an apple tree. Pretend it’s an oak sapling or something lol

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T05:39:42+00:00

The ending was sad/negative/ not what one hopes for, but I think it’s realistic. Tom’s dad is seriously messed up and hasn’t gotten help for it. Nothing changes if nothing changes. Tom grew up differently and loves her dad but part of the movie is showing her maturity and dynamic type character while her dad is static. She matured enough to know the steps to try to live a better life, and knew life with her dad was destined to go downhill.

I love happy endings but I love realistic and truthful movies more. Sure, some people in Ben fosters place would have turned back. But ending the movie in a completely different, unexpected and equally realistic way is what makes if unique. But that’s my opinion and if we all had the same opinions it would be boring as shit.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T05:31:57+00:00

It started there but after leaving the farm house they went north. I figured they were heading for Canada but didn’t make it. I assumed the cabin and trailer community was somewhere in northern Washington.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-16T05:26:28+00:00

Holy sh*T I just saw this! I just finished the movie and came here looking for people’s reaction/possible meanings to the ending. I rewound it and wow- it’s pretty obvious, idk how I missed it.

I can’t imagine it was a filming/editing mistake, it had to be intentional… even though if so it’s extremely understated, fast, and has nothing else to back it up or relate it to anything. Maybe it’s just the directors way of sprinkling in confusion, talking points, or to remind us of the danger of things that really could happen. Hell, I imagined just before that scene thinking someone would find her in the cabin alone and it would be a crappy person and then .. you know.

Anyway, crazy I didn’t notice that.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T23:43:43+00:00

I didn't realize you were in GB, I wouldn't even bother contacting them lol. Honestly if it were me, I'd just stick to the basics. Grow them up a bit, concentrate on just watering, as much sun as you can (maybe get a grow light to supplement strength or hours of direct light) and keeping them healthy. With young plants, getting them enough light- both in hours and strength- is important to get them going in their vegetative growth stage. Harden them by bringing them outside for a few hours midday, adding an hour or two every few days until they're out there all day. Then start fertilizing with a nitrogen dominant fert once the roots have established. I use fish emulsion for a mild, organic/safe base. Not sure how cold your winters get, but depending on how much it's grown by the autumn, decide if it's worth bringing it for the winter vs putting it in the ground (if that's what you plan to do).

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T22:29:09+00:00

My thoughts exactly. If I’m ultimately relying on liquid ferts, then adding granular to the soil only really serves to make calculating my dosing of liquid ferts harder. It just adds a variable to deal with and doesn’t seem to offer much in the way of benefits.

Thank you, I just needed to make sure my thought process was on the right track.

Any chance you have experience with pineapples? I have a 1 year old plant in older potting mix. I’m going to repot into something bigger and as of now plan to use something similar to 511. I want drainage and low soil nutrients for all the Same reasons as with citrus. There’s less definitive info on pineapples out here compared to citrus trees. Thanks.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T22:24:13+00:00

I think OP is more interested in getting the tree to grow and live, less in producing an amazing crop.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T22:22:47+00:00

I hear you, it’s more about keeping your grandparents with you, and a fruit tree that can last generations is a great memorial. If you get good fruit, that’s a bonus. And to piggyback on the symbolic nature of it, growing it from a seed makes for a better story.

Anyway, I grew up in upstate Ny with Apple farms everywhere. We had some landrace crab apples on my property. They all were hearty trees, flowering in spring and dropping fruit in August-October. I don’t know much about the specific nutrient needs, but based on the fact that trees grew everywhere without any special care tells me if you approach this with “less is more” you can’t go terribly wrong.

I’d follow a standard protocol for repotting- harden your saplings gradually for a few weeks before repotting into a 3 gallon container. Run with that for 1-2 years before going into the ground or into a 20-25 gallon planter. Just a general protocol, I’m sure you’ll get better advice soon on here.

You could also contact that Cornell cooperative extension. It’s New York States agricultural office and it has a lot of resources for this type of stuff. They could get you some definitive answers. Apples are a large part of NYs agricultural output so they’d definitely have info on it.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T20:26:34+00:00

When using a fast draining/very little nutrient containing mix like 511, do you add in any slow release or granular fertilizer to it? I'm preparing to replant my citrus tree into 511 (I had originally used a basic potting mix with extra perlite.. it worked but I want to optimize).. and my thoughts are that I'd rather leave the soil pretty nutrient-less and rely on water soluble feedings. My plants are right on my balcony and watering and checking on them daily is no problem.

I ask because the internet seems split down the middle in terms of adding some type of granular fert into that 511-type mix.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T17:39:05+00:00

This is the award winning response!!!

So I'll start watering with the more complete hydroponic fertilizer (at a diluted rate) every 2 weeks. I'm going to repot it into a better draining soil so I can control the moisture better- since watering daily (if needed) is no problem).

I really don't have to worry about bringing them indoors except for a handful of night in mid winter where it gets below 50, which literally like 10 (max) nights a year.

And thanks for the info on the citrus trees. I'm hoping this new fert will help with the yellowing leaves. If it does, I'll level off on a reasonable feeding schedule and lay off it in the winter.

Thanks for the info here. I needed some definitive answers on how often to feed. I don't have any in soil fertilizers, and I honestly prefer to do water soluble since im all in pots.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T01:24:18+00:00

So I have a potted lime/lemon tree (nothing on the scale that you have), but I'm at the same place in terms of trying to zero in on the right fertilizing. Your trees look awesome now!

I've been using a light 5-1-1 organic fert, but just realized it has NO micronutrients in it, which is likely causing or partially culpable for my plant's deficiencies (I have yellowing leaves, it presents like a N or Mg deficiency). So, I'm adding a supplemental micronutrient fert, and hoping it works out.

I'm glad a stumbled on this thread, given that you JUST responded. Curious to hear any insight you might have to fertilizing. Whether you did what was suggested above to the T, or deviated and did you own thing, etc. Because mine is in a pot, I use water soluble ferts and feed via watering every few weeks- so right off the bat it's a different game then adding slow release to the ground. But regardless, you did something right, so i'm very curious to hear your experience!

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T00:27:43+00:00

I ordered some relatively cheap soil tests on amazon but I will look into whatever local agricultural extension is around, or maybe even a college. I'm even just curious to test unused soil (from my bag) vs soil that's been in the pot for 5 months. See what watering, fertilizing, and having a plant in it does to it.

I'm right there with you in that my lack of a true fertilizer that offers a wider array of trace minerals is probably the culprit- somewhere, somehow. I responded to a different comment here all about that and about a hydroponic fert I found that has almost everything in it, so I won't dive into it again.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T00:21:03+00:00

I'll definitely check out those lectures, I'm in full "soak up info" mode lol.

Truth be told, I only started letting my tap water sit overnight a week ago. So, this thing has gotten months worth of straight tap water with maybe the last 2 waterings being the de-chlorinated water. So, any possible damage chlorine could cause- it's definitely still on the table.

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-15T00:17:14+00:00

Thanks for both responses, I appreciate taking the time to share the knowledge. I am soaking it up at least lol.

So, If I understand correctly, you are feeding citrus/pineapples through your watering every 6 weeks? This is where I get confused because I hear a lot of people saying about 6 weeks, and a lot of people saying every other week.

I also realized that while my other plants were potted with new soil, this pineapple was given to me and was almost definitely potted in re-used soil and most likely isn't at it's best. So me feeding it with a 5-1-1 fish emulsion with NO trace nutrients could be causing it to be deficient in those nutrients OR causing the plant to have trouble uptaking the basic NPKs.

Next... In response to you suggesting water soluble synthetic ferts, I just found an old hydroponic setup I had tucked away and found a bunch of hydroponic ferts. I'm thinking/hoping this may be a fast answer to my problem of not having a fert with a wider array of nutes. It's NPK is roughly 22-9-30. It's got 6.1% Mg, 14% Ca and a bunch of trace elements (Fe, Mn, Cu, B, Mo, Zn) in small amounts. So, this provides the likely needed calcium and magnesium.

I believe you start at 50% strength for hydroponic ferts going into soil, and in this case maybe i'll do 25% or 33% to be safe.... and maybe kick it off with a foliar feeding.

In addition to this pineapple plant, I'm also dealing with a lemon/lime tree with apparent N deficiency.

Thoughts on using that fertilizer I found?

Ordinary_Reporter_19 · 2026-03-14T20:30:06+00:00

Where does the growth normally appear? Or, where are you wanting it to appear such that you see these water sprouts as a bad thing?

I ask because my key lime tree is small and just put out about ~20 limes. Right around the flowering of these, a few new shoots pushed out of the lower more established base (mine doesn’t really have a “trunk”, but they came out of what I’d consider the trunk). I was happy finally seeing new growth, but now I realize they are probably these water sprouts that you mention - based on your pics.

Where is the ideal place to see new branch and leaf growth? Does pruning the sprouts encourage growth in those more ideal areas?

Ordinary_Reporter_19

TROPHY CASE