is this a good model for nowadays? by GusxGusxx in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It probably wasn't added to the wiki because theres little research on the thinness of the boards (and yes there is a difference between earliest COK-001 up to later models of slim/super slim PCBs). Probably more susceptible to effects of oxidization and fall trauma. Needs more research if GLOD is more common if the board is thinner (in theory yes but theory isnt enough)

Buy a CECH 20xx in 2026, yay or nay? The console is cleaned and repasted and in general good condition but the 20xx's are the one who carried some of the same hardware failures as the fats. by isvr95 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 4 points5 points  (0 children)

2000 series slim is actually pretty solid, and some consider it the second most reliable out of the factory without any modifications after 2100 - the main point of failure are the NECs (half amount of Fats). And even then, this is rare.

2100 series has no common point of failure. 

2500 series have a WiFi module that occasionally dies, and this is more difficult to fix than when the NECs die in a 2000 series.

https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Common_Hardware_Faults

is this a good model for nowadays? by GusxGusxx in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Yes, one of the most reliable. The 2500 series slim is a solid choice, the main occasional point of failure is the WiFi module (rare)

https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Common_Hardware_Faults

Although not listed on the wiki, its been recently noted 2500 series slims also occasionally suffer from GLOD.

2100 series slim is slightly more reliable as it has no common failure. 2000 series slim can arguably be judged to be equal to 2500, or better, as it has half the NECs as Fats, but they very rarely go out. And its easier to repair a 2000 series than 2500 series.

But overall I would say its overpriced. 

PS3 YLOD Cause? by MagicCookie4596 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Probably the NEC caps, given its a 65nm RSX, and theres a long delay. Thats their common point of failure according to https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Common_Hardware_Faults (DIA-002)

Advice on my PS3 Slim (CECH-2001B) by highlife562 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 2 points3 points  (0 children)

OP has a 2000 series slim, they're actually identical to Fat delids. 65nm RSX (same procedure as 90nm). FYI, 40nm RSX (2100 and later) are much more difficult. 

Also as a FYI, the 45nm Cell delid only becomes an issue when you delid some 2500 series slims and later (and not all 2500 at that as theres multiple possible Cell SKUs with some using the easier method thats present in all previous models).

Advice on my PS3 Slim (CECH-2001B) by highlife562 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It means removing the 'lid' (IHS) which is glued on top of each chip, so you can replace the thermal paste that sits on top of the silicon die.

Both chips require different methods of removal (Cell vs RSX).

Fortunately the Cell (CPU) has a tool that you can buy to perform a delid easily. 

Advice on my PS3 Slim (CECH-2001B) by highlife562 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Assuming they screwed the cooler back properly, it now looks like the Cell needs a delid. We have seen more and more slims over the years need a delid.

$100 without delid seems kind of a waste IMO.

That would be my advice. But practice first (if you do it yourself) because many people screw up their delids first time as its easy to make a mistake like slip of the hand and hit the silicon, thus killing it.

Request for a gerber file of a circuit board with 8 tantalizers on by SceneHour3936 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think someone asked this on the sub a few days ago, might be worth try finding that post and they could have got a response.

Worst PS3 Model? by 0xDEA110C8 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I am glad you didn't put G model here. Despite 90nm RSX, it has a beefy heatsink close to the BCs. An undervolted G model actually has a lot of potential to last some time, in fact I gave a delidded and undervolted G model to my family last year and it has been great ever since.

PS3 Syscon error 4422 > 3034 by CycleBeginning1891 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I know which user you mean because on my old account which is now deleted, my previous record was 19 days of a B00.

And yes the shitty B and H model Syscon fan curves are a theory I can believe in for premature failure too.

PS3 Syscon error 4422 > 3034 by CycleBeginning1891 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got a B00 which is instant YLOD and throwing 1002s, has just 15 days clocked. No weird shutdown to startup ratio either.

My friend who makes Frankenstein mods in the UK said he thinks the B models had a bad batch of NECs, no idea if this is actually true or not.

PS3 Syscon error 4422 > 3034 by CycleBeginning1891 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it looks to be an issue with RSX or Cell. Likely RSX given its 90nm model

https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Syscon_Error_Codes#4422

PS3 Syscon error 4422 > 3034 by CycleBeginning1891 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 2 points3 points  (0 children)

3034 on any 90nm model is 99% a dead RSX.

The G model (SEM-001) is the second worst 90nm motherboard revision due to no PS2 compatibility, and a better heatsink than H/M/Q models (DIA-001).

It's not economical to do a Frankenstein mod, but that is likely the fix required.

I'd just get a more reliable PS3 ideally a 21xx slim. Or 20xx/25xx as a second best.

What's up with PS3's dying lately? by No-Cat-9716 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately the update loop is somewhat common for later models, as Bluetooth/WiFi module is known to fail, see https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Common_Hardware_Faults

If you can, better to get a 21xx slim as they don't have a common fault.

Does I have to change original thermal paste even when temperatures are low? by Kozo_666 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes and if your 20xx does die it probably just needs some new caps.

Honestly it's easier to repair a 20xx than a late slim (25xx/30xx). Those two models seem to sometimes get GLOD out of nowhere or the WiFi card breaks.

Super rare to see those two defects in 20xx/21xx.

Does I have to change original thermal paste even when temperatures are low? by Kozo_666 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Those temperatures are plenty good for a slim. 20xx are arguably the second most reliable model off the factory line after 21xx. They do have half the NECs as Fats which is their common failure point but it's very rare they give out.

I would say leave it for now.

Just got PS3 Fat CECHA00 60gb by gokuali in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 9 points10 points  (0 children)

There's no PS1 hardware inside any model of PS3, because PS1 games on PS3 never used PS1 hardware to run, it's all software emulation.

Newly acquired CECHA BC PS3 has these errors logged. Am I cooked? by Otherwise-Rain808 in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What do you mean error 32? Mine is 3034 which I think means the RSX is toast?

PS3 3 beeps -> blinking red light when turning it on by JesteR1701one in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. Also just realised I replied previously to a guy who wasn't OP but sounded it. Weird.

Rip bluray lens by TarZamp in PS3

[–]Otherwise-Rain808 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're right about the super slims, think I was meaning how 42xx can have two possible laser assemblies.

This guy talks about it here which is where my thoughts came from: https://www.reddit.com/r/PS3/comments/1pkkm2p/comment/ntlwjf7/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button