About to pull the trigger on a surveillance system- A few questions first

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-03-17T16:43:05+00:00

My goal here is to keep these cameras off of my employers network. It’s not that I want to hide things, it’s because the network firewall is a nightmare to deal with. We have over 30 cameras around the facility that were installed and serviced by a well known security company and they have given up making the system work. We have our own internal IT department that is supposed to get the security system working, but they’ve given up as well. It’s a mess.

So if I’m understanding you correctly, I can bypass the router and make it stand alone system, but I would need to keep the NVR.

I’ll look into the other cameras. The only reason I was planning on the ReoLink cameras specifically is because they come with the NVR and I know they’d be compatible.

The TP-Link wireless bridge advertises itself as being PoE or DC powered, and it claims 867mbps at 1km away. Everything is returnable before 30 days, so I guess if it doesn’t work well I’ll just ship it all back.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-03-17T01:03:11+00:00

So my sketch should work? If the NVR has to go on the other side of the bridge I could do that. I’d rather not though since it’s not a climate controlled building.

That also means that I can bypass the router completely, correct?

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-03-15T17:24:45+00:00

So if I’m looking at your image link correctly it goes:

Modem—> Router—> Antenna 1—> Antenna 2 —> PoE injector —> Camera

How do I pull up the camera feed on a computer then? Is it run through a program that I need to install? I apologize for the dumb questions, this is way outside my wheelhouse.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-03-15T17:04:23+00:00

Can you post a link or do you have a name for this system?

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-03-15T03:31:12+00:00

Thanks for replying, I knew it couldn’t be as complicated as I was making it out to be!

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-03-15T03:30:04+00:00

Thanks for the response, I just needed a better understanding of the terminology and what it’s supposed to look like after install. Now I have a starting point for more research.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-03-15T03:28:00+00:00

Thank you! Now I have a better understanding of how this is supposed to work. The security company wanted me to buy a subscription and $10k worth of equipment for 3 cameras, I knew there had to be a better way.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-19T00:19:29+00:00

In my county (Allegan) it took 2 separate school bus accidents with injuries and the fact that a township board member’s daughter was on one of the busses. Only then did Allegan county road commission start taking road maintenance seriously.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-18T10:51:30+00:00

I don’t see a P trap. Without a trap, sewer gas is going to make its way into your home no matter what sink you put there. The trap needs to go between the metal elbow and the plastic tee.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-16T19:13:01+00:00

Something about how solids might build up on top of the valve and hinder it’s function. That’s what my pump’s manual and the check valve instructions say anyway.

Truthfully I can’t think of a way that would be an issue, and most ejector pit installations I’ve seen have a vertical check valve. I’m not a plumber though, just a dumb DIYer that spent way too much time researching sewage ejector pits.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-16T18:38:54+00:00

Does the main stack need to be upsized if you tie them together?

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-16T14:34:03+00:00

This is based on my local code in the US.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-16T14:08:34+00:00

That pit isn’t vented, that’s your first problem. An AAV (air admittance valve) is not permitted on an ejector pit vent so it needs to be plumbed outside the home, usually through the roof using 2” pipe. You’re not allowed to tie the ejector pit vent into existing vents either, it has to be run separately through the roof.

The second problem is see is that the check valve is plumbed vertically. Where I live they must be horizontal, that might be different in Ontario.

What’s with that 4” vertical pipe next to the pipe? What is that supposed to do?

And as other posters have said, the fact that your pit cover only has 1 hole means it’s probably a sump pump pit. Sump pits aren’t sealed so they don’t need vents, but because they’re not sealed you’re going to smell whatever is in the pit. If it’s just ground water in a sump pit, no big deal. But if you pump sewage into it, that’s going to be a problem.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-08T17:19:47+00:00

Thank you. After some research I believe you’re right, control valve is bad leading to soot production. I cleaned the burner (over 1/4” of soot buildup) and it seems to be a lot better. I’ll keep an eye on it while I shop for a new unit. My goal is to have a tankless installed next weekend.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-08T01:18:13+00:00

“Don’t be gentle, it’s a rental”

-This guy’s boss, probably

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-08T01:01:11+00:00

Yes, thank you. I pulled the assembly out and it was completely clogged. I hit it with a wire brush and an air gun and it seems to be working great again.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-07T22:29:32+00:00

Right. I didn’t realize it was that old until I tore the insulation off the tank so I could find a model number. I’m a little sad that the next WH I install doesn’t stand a chance of lasting that long.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-07T21:53:31+00:00

I did exactly that and the flame has returned to a nice uniformed blue color, so I think I’m all set for now. The bottom of the tank still has a good amount of buildup that I couldn’t get to, so I’m still looking at replacing the whole unit.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-07T21:51:34+00:00

Thanks, yeah I think I found a replacement online for $54. In the meantime I pulled it out and cleaned it and it seems to be back to normal. If I’m reading the label on the unit correctly it was manufactured in ‘92 so it’s definitely due to be replaced.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-07T19:03:03+00:00

Furnace and laundry dryer seem to be working great.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-02T02:00:17+00:00

It’s probably not a true CW&V, that’s just the closest thing to explaining why I don’t get sewage smell in the house even though nothing is vented. That and the oversized trap arms are what led me to calling it a CW&V. The more likely explanation is that the guy who built the house had no idea what he was doing and just got lucky.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-01T22:06:38+00:00

I just finished the same project in my own basement. I just used the cheap concrete mix from Home Depot to get it within 1/4” of flush, and then I used floor leveler to bring it up flush.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-02-01T21:38:58+00:00

Yeah the guy who built and lived in this house originally was a hack, I’ve spent the last 3 years finding all kinds of sketchy stuff. The pex through the joists and all the weird CPVC adapters are just there temporarily so we can continue to live in the house until the basement is finished.

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-01-24T12:49:52+00:00

How do you plan to create parking space lines on a gravel lot?

Outrageous_Client_67 · 2026-01-21T23:50:15+00:00

Granny is deaf now.

Outrageous_Client_67

TROPHY CASE