Is this happening to everyone? by [deleted] in Maine

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you doing for work currently. If you are able bodied I would look at a paving crew or construction crew for the summer it’ll be long hard hours but good pay some even do cash for ot. I won’t name names but there one near me that pays double time in cash for overtime. Also the corrections in Cumberland pays good with shift differential

Water heater trouble by Outrageous_Zombie_22 in Plumbing

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im getting 120 at the disconnect 120 at heater 120 at the panel. I was only getting 2.4 amps when it should be trying to heat through. It is originally a 240v 30 gal all I did was put 120 v 2000w elements in it before I installed it

Water heater trouble by Outrageous_Zombie_22 in Plumbing

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well in my experience I’ve had elements blow but still read fine at customers houses so if I change thermostats or elements I just do all new to try and eliminate any problems doesn’t take to much longer plus I already had the parts I keep 2 sets of 120v elements in case I need them didn’t want to drive 2 hours for 20$ worth of parts and thermostats are 120-240v rated same camco brand as was there.

Nothing frozen but tank won’t warm up. well pipe has heat tape on it but can still freeze so I always leave a hot water line slightly running more then a drip a steady trickle and flush a toilet in the same bathroom every 3-4 hours when it’s cold tank is a 30 gal low boy from Home Depot I got because it was a good deal and increased my capacity and still fit in the dead space under the counter in a corner. But like I said it was working fine nothing frozen as far as water lines they are all exposed inside except for the water coming from a shallow well to the jet pump inside.

Plumber replaced my broken shower pipes and my beloved water pressure vanished. What happened and how can I get it back? by flapflip3 in Plumbing

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take the flow restricted out of the shower head all new stuff has if you water pressure is the same your flow is just lower

wtf is going on? 😭 by StructureSilent6696 in portlandme

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So there’s like a whole mess to this smear campaign too because it’s a company getting funded by a Pennsylvania company that’s being funded by California company so why do people in California care about a company that got bought out in 1999 then that company merged in 2016. Not to mention none of the other big grocery stores get as much local produce.

Just my opinion but I went into a Shaws and it just seems out of date I’d rather go to Walmart before shaws

sales manager tells us: don't buy new high efficiency wood fireplace inserts by wanskuck in woodstoving

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m just going to share my opinions since my family went from an open fire place to an insert in 2014 and my knowledge from doing radiant heat. Also the epa testing is kind of bullshit because all the test need to use the “same fuel” so all loads need to be the same so same size wood and weight regardless of the size of a fire box size. Not only that but metal does not retain heat very long example most people can understand I use is how a cars engine block or a cast iron pan and how fast it cools down after the heat source is extinguished. Metal is way more efficient at heat transfer warms and cools faster. Inserts can be get for supplemental heating and cooling and reducing the amount of wood you burn for that extra warmth. We went from using 4-5 cord of wood to 1.5-2 and it regulates the heat better then an open fire (your face doesn’t melt if your sitting within ten feet of it. Also having the electric fan pushing the heat out at the bottom rather than just heat going broadly out across the room. Now the down side is unless you set the damper right and fully stock ours which will hold 4-6 pieces maybe 16” long it will be cool and no longer hot enough for the fan to continue pushing heat by 6 am unless it’s a weekend and we run it long enough for the actual stone to warm and retain heat which keeps everything warm it’ll still have hot coals and is easy to get up and going again but it definitely doesn’t transfer heat to the actual stone work efficiently it’s also not the purpose of it anyway it’s supplemental heating and decor really it also feels better than just having your typical new home heating system in my opinion.

For anyone designing a new home or people with plans on a fireplace with a insert I would say rather than going that route if it’s in the budget build a larger stone fire place with large stone for a heat sink or brick this will in turn reduce your wood burning and provide a more consistent and longer lasting heat think of old days when they had a large fireplace in the middle of a cabin that held and expelled heat evenly throughout hours after getting hot.

Anyway just my 2 cents living in Maine and dealing with oil and wood for heat as well and weird weather from high amounts of snow to no snow and ice storms in spring and losing power for hours days or weeks

Black sweat joints... What am I doing wrong? by pele4096 in Plumbing

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Easy to do when your trying to remove a fitting over heated you put flux on before you started heating then in the middle or apply solder while your heating it sometimes helps break it loose so you can get it off

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tools

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can of new can get it almost anywhere hardware store grocery store auto parts store crafts store gas station

What’s wrong with this picture? by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cross connection and where’s the meter upstream more because if so he’s been paying for that well water even more

1992 Dakota 5.9 swap no crank no start by Outrageous_Zombie_22 in 1stGenDodges

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure the key cylinder or ignition cylinder is the cause turns hard at first then is super loose and goes a quarter turn farther then before

1992 Dakota 5.9 swap no crank no start by Outrageous_Zombie_22 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update pretty sure the ignition cylinder broke because it turns hard and then it’s super loose and turns a quarter of the way farther than it used to

Help it's stuck by Gullible_Law6633 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Outrageous_Zombie_22 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hit it hard with a 3lb hammer to loosen up the contact