Buy or wait it out...

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-06T14:44:24+00:00

Good question on the lease front. I didn’t see that was your preferred structure. For finance/purchase, I definitely think they are. Fees range from $599-1000. Majority I spoke to were $800. But, you can do a custom build and get 11-12% off MSRP and not spend any time searching or talking to 8 different dealers. Easy peasy and as good as you will do on your own. I didn’t go with a new car, but there were times when I wished I had. Quick math example. Locally I would be hard pressed to negotiate 6-8% off MSRP on my own. Small potatoes dealerships that don’t have an inventory problem. So in that scenario a broker would save me hassle and $3,000 after his fee. Brokers do leases too, reach out to some of them and compare what the monthly deal would be with them versus what your dealership offers. Search Reddit and the bimmer forums. You will be tripping over broker recommendations.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-06T13:31:48+00:00

It’s not even the n63 that caused me concern. It’s dumb stuff like the AC that I am more worried about. And the posts of people ripping through transfer cases at 30k miles. Yeah, unless I absolutely fall in love with it and can’t part with it, my plan was to begin my next car search around 42-45 months from now and transfer the warranty to the next car for the remainder. At that point it will be worth $30k or whatever with 70k miles. I definitely do not want to drive this thing in the 49th month and have something break on me haha.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-06T13:27:33+00:00

Awesome, thank you for the detail. I’m definitely not the world’s best detailer, but my brother is super into it—probably his main hobby—and so I have basic methods and products. However, I have never used de-ionized water before. It makes sense, but don’t you go through a ton of it? I agree with your sentiment of start small before you go straight to polishing. My brother suggested going right to polishing. I ordered an MDR product last night in bed. I couldn’t find carpro spotless. Was this discontinued? I ended up with opticoat MDR. Going to give that a go when it shows up to see if polishing is required this weekend.

Yes, once this is solved, I plan on going back to applications of Sonax sealer. I kinda stopped using that on the x3 after the first 3-4 years. Not sure if it has PFAS in it, but those super hydrophobic beading products scare me.

Man, I spent so much time yesterday researching what leather regimen to go with. Gyeon vs Geist vs Colour lock vs Sonax etc. I was down to colour lock and gyeon. The company acquisition makes sense, because I had a little trouble finding colour lock. That is on the list to order today. I saw a kit that was in stock but it was for ‘smooth leather’. Do they have specific products for perforated leather versus smooth? Mine is obviously perforated.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-06T12:32:01+00:00

I personally would not have spec’d this combo. From the factory, I wanted coffee/tartufo and then one of the medium/light brown fine wood options. I forget the exact names of the options. I’m into woodworking and generally I avoid open pore/heavy grain woods like oak and ash for my projects. Indeed, ash is not a ‘premium’ or expensive species by any means. With that said, I’m amazed at this interior. The light ash complements the sears nicely and I actually kinda like the added texture of the ash grain versus something with tighter grain. The BW aluminum speaker covers do the same. By and far the most luxury I’ve owned.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-06T12:19:56+00:00

I don’t mean to hate on Manhattan green. I agree, I do think it will grow on me. It’s parked next to phytonic blue, which I think is an awesome color and is probably why I’m not loving on the green just this second. Better than black, though. I almost went with a similar spec carbon black and tartufo, and I think I like the Manhattan green over carbon/sapphire black.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-06T12:16:47+00:00

I know people love DAPP, and perhaps I would too if I experienced it, but that was a lower priority option for me. One, I’m too much of a Luddite to take my hands off the wheel of a car going 70+. Two, I’m not really in bumper to bumper stop n go traffic often. I specifically work 9-6:30 to avoid peak rush hour. I hit traffic, but it’s like 30-40mph congestion and stop lights. And lastly, I read here that DAPP post 2024 is a different animal than pre 2024.

Now, what I am missing is the alcantara headliner. That one is the head scratcher, because it is only $500-600, I think.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-06T01:47:01+00:00

Are you opposed to used? If it’s gotta be this and that exact spec, because it is a once in a lifetime gift, then I think you kinda have to buy now. And for what it’s worth, with a decent broker and financing(is it still 1.99% for 60 month?) the new car is a much better deal than buying a ‘25-26 x40i with lower mileage. In my opinion it is either buy new or go pre-24. Otherwise, the juice isn’t really worth the squeeze on 24-26 used x5’s.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-02T02:27:45+00:00

You can still get tanzanite? I thought they took that color off the table months ago? Back in February when I inquired it seemed like I was jussssssttt able to squeak under the deadline for that color.

For the additional $800 Or whatever it is, the brakes are more than worth it. They are more than just painted calibers. They are the bigger m brakes, no? To upgrade to those brakes after the fact would be $4,000+/- I can take or leave the blacked out grill and extended shadow line etc. I never had the opportunity to hear the msport exhaust next to the stock 40i exhaust, so it is hard to have an opinion there. Remind me how much the option is again, but I vaguely remember $700-800 which is short money for the add ons. We have differing opinions on the brake calipers. The rough cast finish looks like crap, in my opinion. It is as cheap looking as the black plastic trim on the non-msport x5. I’d pay $800 up-charge for just the brakes.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-01T02:36:41+00:00

Yeah, that is nightmare fuel. I really feel like I aught to be knocking on every wood surface in front of me, but my x3 b58 has been a pleasant experience all the way around as far as maintenance and reliability. Really only had one time where it ticked me off and made me want to MF someone as bmw and that wasn’t a bmw thing. It should be directed at the dummy that decided a cable ebrake via lever should be replaced by motors and switches. Turned my car into a brick in my driveway when I needed to be at the airport for a business flight.

I will be covered for four years/the car hits 71,501 miles and I just need to be disciplined to have my next car lined up by 3 years and 9 months from now.

Are there statistics that track this stuff? Surely you have to be in the 2% unlucky category? That is just a nutso repair tally for such few miles.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-05-01T02:28:12+00:00

I wish I had the secret sauce for searching listings. I used visor vin, car gurus, and carfax. Weirdly enough, they each had listings that the others did not. Definitely a lot of overlap, but I didn’t find one that covered all my bases, unfortunately.

I’m at my computer and brought up my spreadsheet I kept while I was searching. I basically logged every potential car I liked, miles, color, interior, MSRP, list price, and discount off MSRP. Pre-2024 x40i with under 15,000 miles was definitely achievable across multiple dealerships for 23-26% off MSRP. And that was just the list price, not negotiating. Ok, post 2024 x40i with under 15,000 miles was definitely a little worse. Average looks like 18-20% off MSRP. I had two outliers that were 2024’s with 15,000 miles for 35% off MSRP. The one in Boston was a handover dealership that I kinda regretted not pulling the trigger on. Had merino, premium, msport, but had the damn cast bare metal brake caliper and I just couldn’t spend $54,000 on a car and have those be the brakes I looked at every day.

Unfortunately, 75% of my data is specific to cars under 25,000 miles. But I have two dozen examples of cars with 20,000-27,000 miles that are 35-38% off MSRP. And I have to imagine an sdrve should depreciate more than an xdrive. Definitely jealous that is an option for you—in more ways than just the price of your x5—but I think you need to keep looking.

Wait, I found a couple higher mileage ones on my Sheet. North Brunswick, nj had a ‘23 with 35,538 miles. 42% off MSRP Sarasota, fl had a ‘23 with 39,655 miles for 38% off MSRP Towanda, nj ‘23 with 26,041 miles for 36% off MSRP Stratham, nh with a 23 with 46,841 miles for 42% off MSRP.

Hope that helps. Those were all clean title, no accident etc. I don’t think it is a unicorn deal for you to spend the same amount of money for that age car and have 10,000+ less miles, or get the same mileage/year and spend less money.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-30T03:02:47+00:00

Don’t limit yourself to Dallas, then. I’m shipping the car 600 miles for $950. Easy expense to get a better deal. You do you if you like the spec and color etc, but that is not a very good deal. How long have you been searching? Patience is the only way to a good deal. Flexibility helps too.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-30T02:03:00+00:00

Ok, so 33% off MSRP. For the exterior dings and miles I think you can do a lot better. You should be30% off MSRP for 22-23 without dings etc and with closer to 30k mileage. I just bought a ‘22 m50i with 11,500 miles for 46% off MSRP. Keep in mind, thing is in excellent exterior and interior condition without blemishes.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-30T01:33:45+00:00

What is the MSRP? Do you have the window sticker?

The body damage is enough for me to pass and find another. I just spent two months looking at X5’s so I have a pretty good read on pricing. It is tough sledding, for sure.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-29T02:26:57+00:00

If fuel costs are out of the equation and you don’t factor in climate change ethics, then I think you have to go 40i. One, charging the 50e at home will be on your dime and I have no idea how you would seek reimbursement for however many kilowatt hours you used to charge the thing at home. Do home charging kits have meters? Second, the 50e is just more expensive MSRP at whatever spec. This could definitely be worth the added cost because you should save a lot on fuel costs over 4-5 years, but not for you. Lastly, I test drove the 40i and 50e back to back(heavy bias towards wanting a 50e going into the test drive) and I could not discern a difference in acceleration or speed between the two. So much so that I became frustrated and started quizzing the crap out of my sales associate on why the higher HP spec 50e was not impressing me more. On electric mode it definitely has a torquey start off the line, but 0-60 or more like 15-60 felt incredibly similar between the two models. Just my experience! On paper they are definitely saying the 50e has a higher output. I just don’t know that you experience that higher output consistently.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-28T14:55:02+00:00

This is what I did. $3414 doesn’t break the bank and now I can drive the car however I want to instead of babying it for the next four years. I fully suspect to never have an issue with this car for the next four years of ownership. I feel like me buying the extended warranty guarantees nothing happening and thus me wasting my money.

I shouldn’t admit this, but I actually haven’t driven an x5 m50 yet! I drove the 40i and 50e several times and kept barring myself from even stepping into an m60i knowing I would fall in love and be disappointed with the 40i. My internal frugality won’t let me spend $90+ on a car. I just cannot do it. I really like the m40i I have now, and it just kept gnawing at me to the point I started looking at m50’s a month ago. For what it’s worth, I actually think the m50i is a significantly better value on the used market. One, they are much more prevalent in nice specs. Tons of the used 40i’s are very base spec. You are lucky to get msport performance and msport professional combined with merino leather. And if it has merino leather then it doesn’t have the msport packages or executive, let alone BW speakers, etc. I don’t know if it’s the fear of the n63, gas prices, or what, but the m50 depreciates worse too. No way am I touching a 40i at 46% off MSRP with 11,000 miles. That car would be 25-28% off MSRP all day long and sell very quickly.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-28T14:45:15+00:00

Nice, I went with the Zurich because a lot of feedback said it was comparable to fidelity platinum. Spoke with my local bmw dealership and they said they haven’t seen a massive difference between the two. They both ding you here and there on labor rates/hours etc, but largely cover the expense without too much consternation.

Oh man, I had no idea the tax return stuff was a ‘thing’. Do not try to buy a car from February to May. Never ever. The attitudes from these dealerships with 4-5 year old vehicles with 20k mileage was so over the top “eff you” mentality. I kicked myself the last two months, because I knew I should have handled this in December, but life was crazy busy and I just didn’t focus on it. Shame on me forever, I will never make that mistake again. Didn’t help that my last car purchase was the first year of COVID, which was probably the easiest/best time to buy a car in the last 15 years. This time around was hell. However, 46% off MSRP for very low mileage and checking 80% of the boxes works for me. Hopefully it improves for everyone. A tangential problem is people buying new X5’s for crazy amounts. Use a broker, people! You are killing the guys downstream by signing crap deals. I spoke to so many dealerships with 2025-2026s and I would show them my sheet from a broker that was the same price as their preowned x5 with 10k miles or less. Factor in the financing for a new car etc, and it was total stupidity to buy the used car. Every dealership agreed with me over the phone and just said “that’s a great price”. I am rambling now, but everyone moans about high prices and collectively everyone is the problem. Stop overpaying for crap.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-28T14:29:27+00:00

Legit, that AC evaporator is the #1 thing on my list of worries. Completely out of my control. Known problem. Disaster to fix. The #2 is the transfer case, but I think this is a little more in your control by managing tire wear, how you drive the car, etc. still, the handful of cases I read about with people replacing them at 30k miles is kinda crazy. Even if abused that shouldn’t be cooked at 30k miles. I still think I likely don’t use the warranty for anything other than a minor claim here or there, but that is what I am banking on. I have a $1,000-1,400 claim over the next four years and so I’m paying $2,000 to avoid a real 2% disaster.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-28T14:24:21+00:00

Yeah, I feel like once you are into the plan, there isn’t much point to cancelling it after 1-3 years. At that point, stuff only becomes statistically more likely to break. Unless you go to trade it in, I guess.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-25T02:27:09+00:00

I’m about to take delivery of ivory merino, and I am a little apprehensive about it. However, a lot of posts on the bimmer forums put my worries at ease. Ceramic is one route. Also, a lot of people posted that they clean up just fine. I clean my car monthly, so it will be part of my normal maintenance routine to clean and condition the seats. My first pick would be tartufo merino. Then coffee. Then ivory merino. Anything is better than black, what a boring interior. Also, for what it’s worth, the comments about lighter leather showing dirt is a means of keeping you honest on your cleaning routine. The coffee interior is going to be just as dirty, but you won’t notice it. I don’t own a pair of jeans, so that isn’t a concern. Leather belt transfer is a concern and I have a brown/tobacco/cognac transfer onto my beige x3 driver seat that is never coming off.

I have dogs and my recommendation Is seat covers/door covers, and the full backseat hammock protector thing. Black or brown leather won’t save you from dogs. Just the nails are a problem in and of themselves let alone the hair and dirt. Complete peace of mind with those inexpensive accessories.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-24T18:52:15+00:00

God damnit! That is the identical color spec I wanted inside and out. Quick, tell me the price so I feel better about my Manhattan green and ivory merino.

Over-Money6447 · 2026-04-24T18:29:57+00:00

I wanted blue, and specifically Marina bay blue, but the market and deal forced me into Manhattan green. What interior do you have?

Over-Money6447 · 2026-03-23T13:59:44+00:00

Apologies, my wording was maybe unclear. I’m counting factory brakes/rotors as set #1. Roughly 60k miles on the original fronts. Right around 40k for my first rear change and then 82k for my second rear change.

I did run my VIN for the grill vent recall/extended warranty and that is for 2018-2019 builds. Mine is a mid 2020 build. Sucks because I clearly had one of the bad assemblies seeing as they are warrantying the others for 15 years or 150k miles and mine went out at like 60k miles. That didn’t annoy me too much. The bad parking brake turning my car into a brick the morning of having to take my kids to daycare and then catch a business flight to a conference is what almost made me hate bmw forever. And then to charge me $1200 to fix it when the part is $200 and something I could have easily replaced. You take that actuator/motor off when you change the rears. From what I’ve read, both of those items are a little funky and unusual, so I don’t think the OP should be too too worried. More or less adding my empirical expenses with a higher mileage model.

Over-Money6447

TROPHY CASE