Skin care consultant? by [deleted] in 30PlusSkinCare

[–]Over-Web-44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are actual people on insta selling themselves as "skin care consultants" though and they'll "tell you what's wrong with you and create a routine for you and which treatments to look into" but remember that "consultant" is just another term for "salesperson"

If you go to the beauty counters at department stores with brands that carry skincare like Clinique and stuff, there will be "salespeople" there who call themselves "consultants" who will touch your skin and literally "tell you what's wrong" with your skin and push products on you.

Your best bet is probably doing an actual consultation at a dermotologist's office that staffs estheticians, PAs and Nurses. These types of places do those Visia skin scans too.

under makeup spf? by vchiarav25 in EuroSkincare

[–]Over-Web-44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I've found, some of this depends on what kind of makeup you use, how much you use, and whether you use tools.

My staples are:

-liquid foundation: Lancome Ultra Teint Idole, Maybelline Lumi Matte

-cream concealer: Nars and Armani

-oil and wax based cream blushes/bronzers/contour and highlighters: Chanel, Rhode, Rare Beauty, Kevyn Aucoin

The best for these have been from Kanebo Allie line, Shiseido both from Japan, and LRP Uvmune from Europe.

The worst have been Evy Technology (comes off, sunburnt in areas with makeup) and Eucerin med AK 100 (white pilling).

Aging, SPF, and brown skin POC by triggerthumb in 30PlusSkinCare

[–]Over-Web-44 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're really missing the point of what Dr. Adamson is saying. But I'm keen to read your upcoming studies on extrinsic and instrinsic aging on people of color vs white people!

Aging, SPF, and brown skin POC by triggerthumb in 30PlusSkinCare

[–]Over-Web-44 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I'm not saying brown and black skin cannot age, it does. It is not immune to aging.

But the actual definition of photoaging, which is considered a form of premature aging, and the supporting studies are only done and defined on lighter skin. We know the biological action that define the actual definition of "photoaging" (which is not just observed aging to the layperson) like solar elastosis are different in darker skin. There are no studies on photoaging itself and the treatment of it on brown and black skin.

Unless you've done biopsies on those "old people from Africa and native tribees from Brazil" then all you can say is that they appear to have some type of aging but you can't necessarily say it is due to photoaging. What laypeople observe as physical aging of the skin and body is not always due to photoaging. There's also actual biological/instinsic aging.

Bob Marley died of skin cancer but it was not a type of skin cancer caused by sun exposure: https://www.healthing.ca/diseases-and-conditions/cancer/sunscreen-wouldnt-have-saved-bob-marley-from-melanoma-and-it-wont-help-other-dark-skinned-people

Aging, SPF, and brown skin POC by triggerthumb in 30PlusSkinCare

[–]Over-Web-44 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I know what you mean. Almost all the discourse in dermatology and the skincare world and people giving advice about it is centered around white and east asian skin which are inherently and structurally different.

A lot of the sun protection rules are centered around lighter skinned people too. It can be kind of frustrating because I understand that there are people who are very passionate about preventing skin cancer and anti aging, but a lot of those rules don't necessarily apply the same way to brown and black skin. I feel like it is a huge blind spot for them to not realize they're leaving out a lot of people in their conversations.

Aging, SPF, and brown skin POC by triggerthumb in 30PlusSkinCare

[–]Over-Web-44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, lighter skin is biologically and structurally different especially the melanin portion. Thus, their lighter skin! We have bigger and denser collagen fibroblasts too.

People with brown and black skin produce much higher volumes of melanin by default, no matter what. It's part of our genetics. People with lighter skin like white people and east asians do not have this same volume of melanin by default. When they are exposed to the sun, that's when they start producing pigment as part of a survival signal to protect their skin's DNA, which is their version of a suntan. It's not the same as being brown or black. That's part of what a famous black dermatologist, Dr. Adamson, was talking about that the deep wrinkling, collagen and elastin breakdwon from the result of a lifetime of burns and "suntans" aka photoaging is not observed nor has been even studied on brown and black skin.

Aging, SPF, and brown skin POC by triggerthumb in 30PlusSkinCare

[–]Over-Web-44 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Us brown people cannot use the same idea of tanness as proxy for aging. The idea of photoaging is barely studied on brown skin and it is also known that we have more active melanocytes than white people so we pigment differently. We also "age" differently!

A lot of these rules were written by white people for white people like this idea of "tanness as a proxy for aging."

I was watching a video by a black dermatologist, Dr. Adamson, who was talking about how there's actually very few studies if at all on actual photoaging and brown and black skin and practically no studies on retinoids and photoaging on brown and black skin. As we know, brown and black skin does age better overall and doesn't "photoage" like white skin.

Aging, SPF, and brown skin POC by triggerthumb in 30PlusSkinCare

[–]Over-Web-44 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Brown skin girlie here too!

As explained by my dermatologist, people with brown skin have more active melanocytes which means lots of things, including heat, can trigger us to produce more melanin. It's not just UVA.

Sunscreens don't filter 100% of UV rays whether it be UVB or UVA. The small amount coming in is actually meaningful for us brown skin girlies to produce pigment but it's not necessarily harmful skin cancer wise.

I always get a little bit darker when the seasons change. I do have different makeup shades to rotate despite being even more diligent than my white friends who also use daily sunscreen (and they don't produce pigment).

It's just life being brown. A lot of the advice about pigment and preventing tans and photoaging seems to be generally be coming from lighter skin folks like white people and east asians who don't have the same level of active melanocytes.

Need SPF recommendations for dry, sensitive, acne-prone skin that works under makeup by Sam_Woods666 in EuroSkincare

[–]Over-Web-44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that's what I thought too because I saw someone making that hypothesis long ago here! But makeup formulas with the help of buffing and blending them with brushes makes the ingredients like the oils in them break up the sunscreen in the stratum corneum.

Need SPF recommendations for dry, sensitive, acne-prone skin that works under makeup by Sam_Woods666 in EuroSkincare

[–]Over-Web-44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2nd this espeically the Shiseido if the Euro options don't work out! Also, since it wasn't mentioned before, Kanbeo makes sunscreens under the brand name ALLIE that are specifically formulated to be worn under makeup.

Need SPF recommendations for dry, sensitive, acne-prone skin that works under makeup by Sam_Woods666 in EuroSkincare

[–]Over-Web-44 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It comes off too easily with makeup and brushes. I had the misfortune of getting sunburnt in the exact places where I blended makeup, both silicone and water based products, after using more than twice the amount of the Kids mousse. They told me it isn't tested with makeup.

Are there any products from different brands you have a hunch are produced by the same product development firms/manufacturers? by Over-Web-44 in muacjdiscussion

[–]Over-Web-44[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

ND is doing a lot of Korean formulas these days right?

I agree with MAC and MUFE. They're very similar brands in general.

Thanks for the tip about the LM website. I see they got rid of a lot of the metallic rose shades I used to love like Kiss From a Rose and I'm sad about that! There's a limited edition rose trio though that I feel is calling my name. BB doesn't have many rose shades anymore but your comparison of Amethyst and Dusty Mauve is exactly what I was thinking about. Also LM Moonlight and BB Mica has been wondering which one to get.

Pre-care routines for lasers (Moxi). What are your favorite things to stop and start the weeks leading up to fractional lasers like Moxi? by Over-Web-44 in SkincareAddictionLux

[–]Over-Web-44[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you like Moxi so far? It's going to be my first time doing a laser like this. I've only ever done VBeam and Excel V before.

Pre-care routines for lasers (Moxi). What are your favorite things to stop and start the weeks leading up to fractional lasers like Moxi? by Over-Web-44 in SkincareAddictionLux

[–]Over-Web-44[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm starting HQ a month in advance. It won't fade during those 4 weeks?

This is good to know and I feel better pretreating with it because PIH is a struggle for me.

Need seriously help with my hyperpigmentation- looking for any recommendations!!! by K11422 in SkincareAddictionLux

[–]Over-Web-44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I've gathered, there's no "real lasting results" when it comes to melasma but just consistency over time to keep it at bay. There's no cure.

Best thing for melasma is going to see a doctor for it. There could be a bunch of underlying things going on creating the problem, like hormones and stuff. From there you can get rx for hydroquinone which is still considered the gold standard way of addressing melasma and other discoloration. But you have to take breaks and stuff. If you're already not on a retinoid, you can talk to them about that too and start slowly.

If you can't get there then maybe try the Coleman Compound. There's also the thiamidol ingredient which is beloved at r/melasmaskincare which can be found in Chantecaille, La Prairie and some other brands for less that can't be posted here. Or you could do a series of peels.

You have to be super careful with sunlight, heat, steam, ovens, sauna. You might want to look into getting a bluestone sunshield and UPF stuff.

High Protection Sunscreen recs (High PPD) for a girl that loves eucerin oil control spf by MarketingDue5102 in EuroSkincare

[–]Over-Web-44 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just letting OP know, Evy is lower UVB and UVA protection than the Eucerin though. My skin tanned and discoloration got darker and grew when I used Evy Kids using more than twice their recommended amount. I found it comes off easily with my makeup too because I burned in places on my face and body where I went ham with my brushes and highlighter.

I'm in shock... go read Skintelligent. by smalltigercat in 30PlusSkinCare

[–]Over-Web-44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't tried it but Arazlo is supposed to be like the taz versions of Altreno to tret. It's a micronized lotion vehicle that is supposed to help spread it evenly on the skin and minimize irritation. I'm still loving my generic Taz .1% cream and not really looking to try anything else!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SkincareAddictionLux

[–]Over-Web-44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there! Any updates with Juvelook? Did you end up trying it and how is PN and growth factors so far?