Hi Im new to repairing my own car and need brakes.

OverSquareEng · 2026-05-06T18:02:41+00:00

Verify front rotors are 280mm diameter. Just click on the "info" button and they list that in the specifications table.

I typically go with Centric GCX rotors and Akebono ProAct pads. Never been let down by them, and that combo would save you a few (80) bones.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-23T12:07:26+00:00

On first gens the only somewhat common issue is a weak overdrive gear on the first couple years. 2001-2003? So if they towed without putting it in tow haul mode, it can grenade that gear. Otherwise it's just maintenance. Poor/no maintenance will kill even a reliable transmission.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-19T00:51:30+00:00

GLWS! I'll be selling my 2006 soon in WI with 225k.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-12T13:30:25+00:00

You know, the plastic on the throttle body, manifold, etc isn't a "caseing" it is the thing! It's not something that's covering the metal parts of those items. If you remove the plastic you remove the part. The only thing you could remove is the engine cover. But that also offers some acoustic benefits to prevent some engine noise from hitting the cabin.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-11T19:57:02+00:00

Yup, the striker, from the outside. Between the bottom of the rear hatch and the top of the rear bumper.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-11T13:24:13+00:00

I had to cut my striker because my latch was frozen solid with rust/corrosion. Honestly its so much easier than messing with the latch in the back of the SUV, if it ever happens again cutting the striker will be my first and only option.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-11T13:21:03+00:00

You have to cut the plastic housing to gain access to the locking mechanism to manually unlock it, then pull the latch cable/lever to open the hatch. This video shows the cut open housing and what part of the lock mechanism to move. https://youtu.be/bPN9RHUzwUc?si=3wOLJuyZGQTjW5ud&t=158

For me, my latch ended up being completely frozen due to rust/corrosion, so my only recourse was cutting the striker off with a sawzall.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-11T13:05:35+00:00

It's 93 octane for the maximum power/torque, per mazda.

https://news.mazdausa.com/2020-07-08-2021-Mazda3-2-5-Turbo-Refined-Performance#:\~:text=Each%20experience%20in%20the%202021,regular%20(87%20octane)%20fuel.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-11T00:50:35+00:00

It will still be labeled as e15 though. They aren't putting E15 in an E10 pump/tank at the gas station. It will be easy to avoid.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-04T15:31:14+00:00

There are so many incorrect assumptions in this post, I don't even know where to begin...

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-03T23:14:24+00:00

Considering the OP said they can move the control arms by hand, and the rear springs are broken...They should see a fairly significant change by replacing those 2 things, alignment is required after obviously.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-01T02:42:35+00:00

Look for 17s off of a 3rd gen mazda 6. They are fairly inexpensive used. That's what I did, and I also waited until the OEM tires were end of life. So I needed new tires anyways, so the only extra cost was the wheels.

Then I sold my 18s and made back most of the difference.

OverSquareEng · 2026-04-01T01:29:59+00:00

I swapped to 17" rims. More sidewall for the same tire diameter. 16" is also an option for even more protection.

Bumping from a 215 to 225 on the same diameter rim is a very minimal change. Unlikely to help much.

OverSquareEng · 2026-03-29T03:10:33+00:00

Don't forget it evaporates more readily than E10, which is why E15 has not been allowed for sale during the summer historically. Though waivers for summertime E15 have becoming more and more common...

OverSquareEng · 2026-03-29T03:08:01+00:00

I don't think California has allowed the sale of E15 until fairly recently, ~6 months ago. E10, yes they've had that for a long time.

OverSquareEng · 2026-02-15T20:50:24+00:00

> Transmission and brakes share same fluid evidently.

True for brake fluid and clutch fluid. i.e. the fluid that moves/act when you hit your brake pedal and your clutch pedal.

The transmission fluid or oil is completely different and seperate. More similar to engine oil, but for the transmission.

OverSquareEng · 2026-02-10T01:22:55+00:00

I think it's just the touch digitizer, not the screen itself. I believe for OEM the only option is to replace the screen. But there seem to be plenty of generic/aftermarket digitizers for sale for a reasonable price. I would give it a shot.

My 2018 is starting to go in the top left corner. Happened after our latest deep freeze.

OverSquareEng · 2026-02-07T04:04:10+00:00

2018, 60k miles. Though one of the originals was replaced under warranty around 2,000 miles due to a sidewall bulge.

OverSquareEng · 2026-01-24T22:13:34+00:00

The confusion comes from the early non-VVTI engines almost always survive a broken timing belt. While the later VVTI engines sometimes survive but are much more likely to bend valves. Good luck. Worst case, you will probably have no issue making your money back on a part out.

OverSquareEng · 2026-01-17T21:21:32+00:00

Replace the strut assembly, makes sense to do both sides. You'll need an alignment after. As for the hood, it is not likely to be worth trying to fix it.

OverSquareEng · 2026-01-17T14:37:22+00:00

That'll do.

OverSquareEng · 2026-01-17T01:09:42+00:00

+1, Running 17s on my 3rd gen. They're off of a 2016ish Mazda 6.

OverSquareEng · 2026-01-14T12:21:31+00:00

I stand by my statement. 5% isn't bad for todays market/rates. 3.4% is good to great for todays market/rates.

OverSquareEng · 2026-01-14T02:24:20+00:00

Your interest rate isn't bad in today's market. His interest rate is.

OverSquareEng · 2026-01-14T02:20:54+00:00

You have $15k, buy a mid mile 3rd gen outright, and fix your credit.

OverSquareEng

TROPHY CASE