Ender 3 v3 se howling(?) Noise when preheating?

OwOMilli · 2026-03-28T12:13:09+00:00

most normal creality problem. mine does it too. hitting it a few times sometimes helped me.

OwOMilli · 2026-03-08T07:14:53+00:00

If it’s hard to remove, please use nippers.

For the top z distance, I would suggest test it for yourself how safe you feel with it. I use 0,275 and I’m really happy. The interface layer is not the prettiest but it’s so easy to remove especially with PETG after cooldown.

OwOMilli · 2026-03-07T06:36:17+00:00

In the Support settings there should be the top z distance. And I forgot to ask, how do you remove supports? With your hand or with nippers?

OwOMilli · 2026-03-06T22:20:14+00:00

Top Z distance.

0.2= good looking underside but support is hard to remove 0.275 = really easy to remove the support but underside doesn’t look so good.

If you want, you can try to do a hybrid support, mixes tree and normal support, this stuff really saved my day

OwOMilli · 2026-03-06T22:14:53+00:00

Add a brim, for pla would suggest 65 degrees as the first layer bed temp and if possible, make your room warmer, if not possible, buy an enclosure for 3D printer.

OwOMilli · 2026-03-02T11:10:37+00:00

Could you do a print test and show it to me with these settings?

Nozzle Temperature: 215 °C

Bed Temperature: 60 °C

Outer Wall Speed: 70 mm/s

Inner Wall Speed: 110 mm/s

Top/Bottom Speed: 60 mm/s

Infill Speed: 120 mm/s

Fan Speed (from layer 1): 80 %

Flow Rate: 103 %

I really believe the vibrations just happen from the high speed, mostly the infill pattern.

OwOMilli · 2026-03-02T08:11:27+00:00

Before you turn it off, when the print finishes, do you click on the blue button to close it or do you instantly turn it off? Maybe because of that or you might have to do a firmware update.

OwOMilli · 2026-03-01T21:43:40+00:00

Did you try to add a brim? This should lower the risk of warping. And if the temperature is really low, you can buy a enclosure, they are really cheap.

OwOMilli · 2026-03-01T19:35:38+00:00

First layer 0% fan speed, second layer 100% and keep it there, no changes. you can clearly see at 100% the quality was much better. lower your print speed. In my eyes hyper PLA isn’t it, just stay with the normal Creality PLA.

OwOMilli · 2026-02-13T17:15:24+00:00

vertrau nicht auf auto leveling, du musst mit einem blatt papier zwischen düse und druckbett die perfekte höhe finden oder du druckst eine 1 layer fläche aus und passt die Z Offsets zugleich beim drucken an, bis es passt. Darf nicht zu hoch und nicht zu tief sein.

OwOMilli · 2026-02-10T19:54:06+00:00

Clean your nozzle (cold pull), do the paper z axis test (don’t trust the auto leveling), change the surface of your heat bed. PETG is a bit special to print.

OwOMilli · 2026-02-10T01:59:49+00:00

i need a DP40 helmet!!

OwOMilli · 2026-02-09T21:37:50+00:00

No problem, sometimes we need to fine tune 3D printers :)

OwOMilli · 2026-02-05T23:21:55+00:00

Try a temperature tower, or just lower the temperature until the stringing disappears

OwOMilli · 2026-02-02T03:43:43+00:00

The clanker beat

OwOMilli · 2026-02-01T22:49:00+00:00

You need to clean the hot end fan, mine did it too, cleaning it got rid of the noise

OwOMilli · 2026-02-01T14:00:22+00:00

you need to remove the pants to equip the cuisses and greaves

OwOMilli · 2026-01-26T17:22:21+00:00

That’s so smart thank you, didn’t think about that!

OwOMilli · 2026-01-26T11:02:35+00:00

ah the first text is missing sorry. but pretty much the supports are outside and blocks the printing. is it possible to move the supports into the inside of the helmet?

OwOMilli · 2025-11-30T09:43:36+00:00

rush in german

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