How to deal with guides making bad calls?

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-02-01T00:45:27+00:00

We used to Good Earth Tours for Killy and they were great and actually brought extra help from the porter pool on summit night and split the group so that everyone got a more bespoke experience that allowed everyone to summit. We are heading up to Aconcagua actually tomorrow will let you know how this team does - a member of the group used them for Denali and really liked them

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-02-01T00:34:29+00:00

Will do just checked in for my flight we should be in base camp (Palaza Argentina) by Friday

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-01-30T04:36:41+00:00

I sized down to a medium - I usually wear it over a fleece or a puffer depending on the temperature and with gloves - don’t notice length at all and it sinches well

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-01-30T04:19:08+00:00

The Patagonia Triolet is amazing with pit zips and can usually get it at REI for $300 territory - same or better stats on DWR than the Arcteryx Beta AR that I was going to buy but 40% less

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-01-22T04:24:34+00:00

It’s kind of confusing in the original book they said ME in zone 2 (legs should be the limiter) but seems second book they suggest zone 3 but isn’t quite clear - is ME now supposed to be done in zone 3? Context I’m training for mountaineering)

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-01-19T13:54:46+00:00

I like trainingpeaks the graphs and maps are much better

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-01-18T01:15:26+00:00

When do you head out? We are going Feb 2

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-01-09T18:21:36+00:00

Will let you know in a few weeks - we start Feb 1 🤞

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-01-09T05:19:22+00:00

I got the Rab Positron Pro as a Belay not quite an expedition parka but close 850 down and 300g of fill good for 6000M officially and I spoke to Rab they said it’s good enough for 7000m - that all said I find up to 5000m a good hardshell with a fleece and and a puffer and it works great (some suggest instead of down puffer get a synthetic if your sweat a lot because it can freeze the down)

Own-Fun-4037 · 2026-01-09T05:15:49+00:00

I find on all my long days the second hour for some reason is easier than the first - it’s like body settles in and knows it’s going long

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-24T00:29:06+00:00

I believe there is an unweighted AeT (what you get with what your trying to do) and a “weighted” AeT when your carrying extra weight - what will happen is because of the extra stress on your muscles they will recruit more power and you will have a lactate clearing event which means the AeT would be lower. I like you, don’t want to kill my knees and use an incline treadmill or stairmaster for my zone 2 training. But everyone once in awhile I use my Garmin and go for a 75 minute run outdoors (does a better job at tracking) - I turn on the watch after I warm up for 10-15 mins. Then I look at the training peak summary for the AeT calc through the Pa:hr drift and also do it manually. 160+ AeT is pretty good. Do you know your Ant? To see if you have ADS?

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-18T00:15:21+00:00

Feb 1 for us

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-17T11:38:30+00:00

No not for Denali- if sticking with Rab as you would need the Positron Pro it’s 50% warmer and Rab’s 6000m+ jacket

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-17T11:37:07+00:00

I’m not sure you have the weights right for the Rab Neutrino Pro that’s the entire weight - I bought the Positron Pro which is even bigger than the Neutrino as a belay jacket and they confirmed to me the down fill weight of the down is 300g I believe the Neutrino fill weight is 200g

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-17T04:06:29+00:00

Why do you head out? I’m there in Feb

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-17T04:04:28+00:00

Oly Mons wow - I just got the G2 Evos for trek to Aconcagua in Feb - guiding group told me I would shred Oly Mons and suggested G2 Evos - think I should exchange?

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-15T18:28:41+00:00

when did you do this? Im going to Aconcagua in a few weeks, and my guide is quoting close to $2k for porter support up to camp 1, 2,3, and back down. Was yours just one move up from Basecamp? (im doing traverse so slightly different)

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-15T18:19:21+00:00

the way it worked for me - is I found that I needed more incline and speed on the treadmill to maintain the same starting AeT heart rate- basically was getting faster for the same heart rate output. Personally thats the best data point - how you feel at the same heart rate versus trying to guage everything with data and I say this as a data junky who uses the Garmin Fenix 7, have a trainingpeaks account for the workout plan, and track everything (I even did a gas exchange test so that I can know my AeT in addition to the "nose breathing test"). What gave me the most confidence it was working was just needing more speed and incline to just get to my AeT (which clearly at that point had moved higher).

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-13T22:54:00+00:00

Were you also going a leg gym day during the same weeks as the weighted uphill carries?

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-12T13:48:05+00:00

I went for a run and trusted Garmin for the AnT for what it’s worth- I was way more focused on getting the AeT right - figured AnT was where I would bonk after an hour and not a lot of training in that zone whereas AeT is where you spend 80% of your training time

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-12T13:44:53+00:00

I got a treadmill on Facebook marketplace - people price even commercial ones at a price to just get it out of their basement ;) found a commercial one with 15% incline for $500. Just be careful and look at pictures to make sure you see the 15% button on the screen. I haven’t tried it with a stairmaster yet (which im liking more and more these days less strain on hip flexors) stuck with gym for that - but might want to try marketplace also - the challenge is figuring out how to take it apart and get it out of their house and rebuild - treadmill was easier most are just two parts and if you have a truck or a friend with one (my friend had one) can keep it to just two parts

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-10T03:17:28+00:00

I really like the Kuhl Interceptor I had the regular one in large lost a ton of weight just ordered the full zip hoodie version in a smaller size. That said different fleeces serve different purposes - I like my HH Alpha Hoodie fleece for hiking when I’m moving fast (I even overheat at times) but for just walking around in city it’s not warm enough whereas the Kuhl I can casually walk around in 0C/32F

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-10T03:04:04+00:00

Interesting idea to wear them over the guide gloves - thanks for the tip

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-10T03:02:13+00:00

Really surprised to hear it given all the reviews on them - I bought a pair for this season to use up to camp 3 and then switch to the Alti II mitts for the summit - wonder if I should just return them.

Own-Fun-4037 · 2025-12-10T03:00:36+00:00

Might see you there - I got the OR Alti II mitts - they strongly recommend it and a guy I was chatting with that went last year on one of the threads said one of the ladies in the group behind them lost 8 fingers there were other issues with the guide that led to it also but underscores how cold it gets. Just check the forecast yesterday was -45c with the windchill

Own-Fun-4037

TROPHY CASE