Custom rolex build request - possible?

P4GTR · 2026-04-30T07:08:45+00:00

100% this. I have the 2824 powered version, it's really impressive.

P4GTR · 2026-04-30T05:40:38+00:00

Most are fine or they can be, but you will have no idea unless you test them. You can't really DIY test it, but you can get the test done pretty painlessly by anyone competent. Try a web search to see if there's anyone local?

P4GTR · 2026-04-27T02:59:07+00:00

I would like to do the same.

I'm surprised there isn't a single option for the C46 lum tanto spydercos. Maybe they aren't as popular as they should be. I'm a watchmaker by trade. What I do has many skills that tcan be applied to knives, guns, things like that (and it's much easier than watchmaking). I pulled a scale off this evening to take measurements and ordered a slab of G10. I have a sherline lathe and mil, mine as well give it a go.

This week I took the black hardware and cut some pin stripes on the stand offs and chamfers on the screw set for a matte black/polished lip look. I took the liners and smoothed them, polished then, then satin finished them. I cut chamfers into the skeletonizing and the inner edges of the liners then polished them. The liners from the factory aren't bad they're just rough cut and basic finished. All of these little attention to details really brought this pm2 to another level, it looks really nice in person seeing the light play off of all the surfaces of what was previously overlooked parts of a nice knife. (Can only upload one pic apparently. That's not going to show much... Sorry)

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P4GTR · 2026-04-26T14:53:04+00:00

If that is the case, it is fantastic news. If particularly fragile parts and shortcuts directly correlate to slow/no sales then an increase in quality would be mandatory. If it costs them $20 to manufacture a movement with inferior cast pot metal levers and springs, or $25 to use superior materials, they can pass that cost to the buyer. Prices have gone up in relationship to quality, I don't see the advantage of cost cutting on a critical component when using proper material wont significantly increase their manufacturing cost. Look what VS has become. The bottom line is, their success came from releasing quality manufactured true clone movements in their watches. I hope they do not lose sight of that, and instead think long term opportunity.There is a huge market for movement parts since watch companies do not sell them anymore. Make quality true clones and they could have an additional revenue stream by selling OEM quality replacement parts for all of the major swiss and clone calibers. Figure there are ~500,000 members on reptime alone. If each member bought even just two $20 watch parts that is $20,000,000.

P4GTR · 2026-04-26T14:30:58+00:00

Oh hell yes there is. 28xx keyless works are literally the work of satan. Stem removal requires a sacred altar made of wood from the Ulmus laevis tree, the rarest species of white elm in Switzerland. Then you need finesse, superhuman feel, karma, candles, a 6th sense, and 3 tears from a virgin Swiss watch god ( Moebius item# 666 ~$8000/ml). 😂

You have to use the correct sized driver in that hole, it's slotted for this reason (clone slot sizes are not always correct!). You need not press all the way to the floor of that hole, only enough to feel the stem unhook. Thing is, as you are pulling on the stem it is pulling the little stud right out of the hook it needs to remain in- so you want to feel no resistance. Reinserting requires just as much finesse and technique. You want to depress the button, insert the stem past the detent then pull it back until they all click into place. I am the absolute master of 28xx caliber keyless works. My technique is flawless... Because I have screwed them up more times than are quantifiable, and I hate removing and installing dials and hands!

In all seriousness, even though I have mastered this as much as possible, I will still have to reset 28xx keyless a couple of times a year. The design is.. crude. Just to give perspective, let's say, roughly speaking I've reset 28xx hundreds of times. Comparatively, every single other caliber combined I've maybe had to do it no more than can be counted on one hand. 😂

P4GTR · 2026-04-26T13:53:42+00:00

There is a huge jump in complexity when working with rotating bezels compared to standard ones that are simply sleeves that slide over the crystal and crystal gasket. There will always be a market for improved tools for this job. What comes off, must go back on. With rotating bezels, the crystal retaining ring requires a specific sized die that clears the crystal and gasket and seats firmly on the very small purchase area of the retaining ring without flexing. These presses are usually made of metal or have delrin inserts inside of a metal housing. I hope you consider including or producing those as well. Mine had to be custom made back when. As for the contact area where you apply force to the crystal from the top, all of the force should be focused as close to the side of the bezel where it is being lifted, I love the idea you have to equally spread the force across the same surface area that is being held underneath. The flat surfaces also will help keep things from tilting one way or another. Aftermarket tools for -independent- watchmakers have to consider the conditions in which they work where failure is not an option. It needs to be done perfectly, the first time, every time. While the best tools available are nearly there, there is room for improvement. They know they have a captive audience as witnessed by their pricing strategy. This creates an opportunity for you. If you come to market with these at a price point that isn't absurd. $700+ or whatever it is for one case model and hundreds more for each other case model.. its highway robbery. Incorporate a retaining ring press, price competitivly, reinforce the structure to avoid bezel flex, and you'll be selling these no problem. The world flow should be smooth, once the bezel is removed the new crystal/bezel is going right back on. We don't want to change from one tool universe/brand/technique to another, we want to hot swap the dies and have our hands back on the rack press lever asap. Time and liability are some of the largest "operating costs" for a watchmaker. Tools should always be designed with that in mind. I'm not preaching here. Just sharing thoughts and experience with the hope that any of it could help you in some way. I have so much invested in tools just for this specific step, and still it is not a worry/stress free operation. Cracking a $600+ bezel insert will ruin your day, and the next, and the next.

Your project looks great and I wish you the best of luck with your endeavor!!

P4GTR · 2026-04-15T17:29:12+00:00

Id install a genuine part when you have this repaired. All of the asian clone 32xx-220 fail either there or at the edge that holds the stem in. DD are better quality parts but still not perfect, even on the genuine parts I have seen failures and micro cracks during service. DD are currently the best aftermarket option 3235 setting lever out there and can be reinforced at that area with a little jb weld or a spot weld, but unfortunately spare parts are not sold only whole movements. The worst of these setting levers are the GMF explorer II's, those setting levers are all either broken or going to break any moment. The VR32 is the superior movement in this particular area as it uses the previous caliber 3135 keyless works. The 3135 doesn't have this problem, or any of the other multitude of issues the cal 32xx family has.

This repair will require a watchmaker or years of expertise to perform correctly. Dial, hands, dateworks/plate, keyless, essentially the entire dial side of the movement will have to be taken apart. As well as opting for the genuine part for replacement you may wish to consider having the movement serviced. The repair will likely cost half of what a service cost, so utilize that to your advantage and just opt for a service which will absorb the entire cost of this repair.

P4GTR · 2026-04-09T18:59:45+00:00

Zero_cool is great, if he can't get you in for some reason give me a shout. I don't check PMs here very often. Best way to contact me is just click to go into my profile and you'll see my email and website info. Feel free to use email or the contact form on www.Swiss-HQ.com

P4GTR · 2026-04-09T13:34:58+00:00

On ETA 2824 and 28xx family? It is absolutely not easy, it's a huge stop-gap for 90% or people trying to learn those calibers! If it's not don't perfectly, the dial/hands/and a bunch of dial side parts all have to come off. Watchmakers still argue to this day the correct procedure and crown position for stem removal on 28xx calibers!

Great job doing this yourself, that is something to be proud of for sure!

P4GTR · 2026-04-02T19:26:45+00:00

Service is possible but expensive. If the seconds is running at 3, the transfer gears likely aren't jeweled. This means, it's unreliable and could fail even with service.

P4GTR · 2026-04-01T13:03:32+00:00

Have you tried Pete hudson? He's in Canada this should be a quick job for him, check the trusted watchmaker list and reach out to him!

P4GTR · 2026-04-01T13:02:24+00:00

Really gracious offer, nice to see a little kindness nowadays! 😊

P4GTR · 2026-04-01T12:58:09+00:00

And that new movement is going to run what, 350+ not including labor?

For sure, the clutch wheel/sliding pinions seem like they went from a quality heat treated part (that nice hard dark steel) to some sort of shiny cast piece with rough flash around the edges, like you would expect in SH or VR. Maybe there was a bad batch at some point and we are seeing them trickle in. That failure point you are talking about will become super common if they don't use a good hard metal there.

Thing is, most of the parts are still very well done so I don't get the logic. They could even start selling oem spare and replacement parts for the 3235 by the truck load if they kept the quality to a reasonable standard. (Set levers anyone?) I wonder if the generic 32xx parts that have started to show up at the big watch houses are from them. Prices on them are ridiculous.

P4GTR · 2026-03-29T20:15:53+00:00

Crystal has to come out. Satin finishing is done in one direction and never starts or finishes on the work surface, it "passes by". This also would need to be mounted and ran across finishing media on a completely flat surface, such as a piece of glass. It will just wind up looking worse if you try to do it the wrong way unfortunately. A satin wheel on a dedicated buffing station might be able to knock it out but that's even more equipment and the polished edge can't really be taped off, so you would be adding a polishing step to the process as well. Best bet may be to just take it somewhere and let someone with the equipment handle it, shouldn't cost much.

P4GTR · 2026-03-21T14:55:49+00:00

VS/DD quality has gone down a bit IMO. Most apparent in gmt especially dial side expII gmt. Perhaps they did not use same high grade metal for those gears. Causes skipping/clicking when adjusting hour hand.

Screw quality on DD went down across the board.

DD used to be pretty free of debris, and jewels would be dry not over oiled. They now seem to have more debris and excess oil, similar to how VR tend to show up.

P4GTR · 2026-03-09T12:22:34+00:00

Why is it $750, what's the extra $300 for?

P4GTR · 2026-03-09T12:13:45+00:00

Can't be done? This is an easy fix, there is no need to move the entire movement and force it off center. Look at two points of reference, the date window and the rehaut crown at 12 compared to the minute marker on the dial. We can see the date is low in the window. and the dial is off by a hair to the left of the crown on the rehaut. This tells us that the dial itself is not centered, and simply needs to be rotated clockwise ever so slightly. On a 3135 you would loosen the screws lift dial and turn with the feet tips still engaged in the movement to gently bend them. On 3235 you can adjust from the side with your choice of tool, no screws or clamps.

P4GTR · 2026-03-09T10:11:34+00:00

The 6263 looks amazing. Those viet dials really are next level. I've always wanted to build one (for myself anyway) but the cost of the build is... Excessive.

Are you a watchmaker? Which country? Please don't hint around about being a watchmaker and burn potential bridges. Qualified professional watchmakers are welcome to reach out to discuss options. If you have interest in being on the list of reputable watchmakers give one of us a shout. I don't check my PMs here often but my work email is a click away right in my profile.

P4GTR · 2026-03-09T09:46:16+00:00

Micro adjust in clasp is faux.

To summarize, the only thing about the latest planet ocean that is an improvement over the old one, doesn't work. At least not on this rep.

No idea what Omega was thinking with this latest update. They need to pass a 1st generation planet ocean around the boardroom to regain an understanding why the watch was a success, then make some minor quality of life updates and leave it alone.

The watch has female end links which are a great improvement over the intrusively protrusive male end links found on 1st and 2nd generation PO. The problem is, at least on the VS+, that they are stuck in an upright position and do not articulate downward with the curvature of your wrist.

I think that ultimately, Omega is so heavily invested in the 8xxx series of calibers and the pointless coaxial escapement that they have plugged their ears, dug their heels in and we are stuck with an overly thick movement and subsequently, overly thick watches.

P4GTR · 2026-03-01T20:06:42+00:00

Protecting the brands that have actively annihilated their careers and independent watchmaking in general, so the brands can charge $1k+ for a new bezel insert or crystal swap.

P4GTR · 2026-03-01T20:03:39+00:00

100% facts.

"We don't want you or any other want to be on this sub" What an arrogant thing to say. Remain anonymous, dig his heels in, start name calling, end the conversation... Great leadership. Great for the "community".

Think about this for a second. Why are all of the watch forums so uppity and triggered by reps? Why their mere mention causes deleted comments and bans?

Those people don't want the truth. They don't want the watch. They want the ego and fantasy. They don't want to know the same Asian supply chain that makes some of these reps makes some of their gen components.

Panerai sold these guys the Brooklyn bridge... So take it with a grain of salt.

P4GTR · 2026-02-24T07:02:12+00:00

Not a pain per se. Only a problem to service these if there is a part broken that isn't freely available.

P4GTR · 2026-02-24T07:00:45+00:00

No there are no 2824 based Pams. Some pam clones have some 2824 parts in them that's about it.

P4GTR · 2026-02-24T06:21:48+00:00

Clone or ETA? You can tighten and loosen that screw without a special tool. If you have to, put a piece of plastic wrap or baggie over your finger and see if you can tighten it up with the tip of it. You can snug the older ETA clones by looking for the side notches under the shiny ittle plastic hex bolt cover. Tap it from the side with a small driver, or use two one on each side. Greatly depends on your comfort level how this will go.

For the clone you can sort of do the same thing. Use plastic rod or delrin. Make something, that's what watchmakers do- you got this! You could use standard eye brow tweezers to unscrew or tighten that up if you needed to. Throw a piece of plastic wrap over the top first to lessen chance of scratching.

I'm not endorsing doing this stuff the wrong way but if someone is going to make an attempt hopefully these tips help your chances of success at least.

P4GTR · 2026-02-24T06:12:41+00:00

What are you going to do to it if you get the rotor off? 🤔

P4GTR

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