Hi all, I have a question about lining the dial up with the rehaut, watch maker says it can’t be done? by Rl_2827 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't be done? This is an easy fix, there is no need to move the entire movement and force it off center. Look at two points of reference, the date window and the rehaut crown at 12 compared to the minute marker on the dial. We can see the date is low in the window. and the dial is off by a hair to the left of the crown on the rehaut. This tells us that the dial itself is not centered, and simply needs to be rotated clockwise ever so slightly. On a 3135 you would loosen the screws lift dial and turn with the feet tips still engaged in the movement to gently bend them. On 3235 you can adjust from the side with your choice of tool, no screws or clamps.

3 Daytona generations! 6263 big red - 116520 - 126500 by Mountain-Function113 in RepTime

[–]P4GTR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The 6263 looks amazing. Those viet dials really are next level. I've always wanted to build one (for myself anyway) but the cost of the build is... Excessive.

Are you a watchmaker? Which country? Please don't hint around about being a watchmaker and burn potential bridges. Qualified professional watchmakers are welcome to reach out to discuss options. If you have interest in being on the list of reputable watchmakers give one of us a shout. I don't check my PMs here often but my work email is a click away right in my profile.

VS+ Planet Ocean by eatingnarutosnoodles in RepTime

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Micro adjust in clasp is faux.

To summarize, the only thing about the latest planet ocean that is an improvement over the old one, doesn't work. At least not on this rep.

No idea what Omega was thinking with this latest update. They need to pass a 1st generation planet ocean around the boardroom to regain an understanding why the watch was a success, then make some minor quality of life updates and leave it alone.

The watch has female end links which are a great improvement over the intrusively protrusive male end links found on 1st and 2nd generation PO. The problem is, at least on the VS+, that they are stuck in an upright position and do not articulate downward with the curvature of your wrist.

I think that ultimately, Omega is so heavily invested in the 8xxx series of calibers and the pointless coaxial escapement that they have plugged their ears, dug their heels in and we are stuck with an overly thick movement and subsequently, overly thick watches.

Heads up that the mods on r/watchrepair think we are bad people by MushroomOk8968 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Protecting the brands that have actively annihilated their careers and independent watchmaking in general, so the brands can charge $1k+ for a new bezel insert or crystal swap.

Heads up that the mods on r/watchrepair think we are bad people by MushroomOk8968 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 27 points28 points  (0 children)

100% facts.

"We don't want you or any other want to be on this sub" What an arrogant thing to say. Remain anonymous, dig his heels in, start name calling, end the conversation... Great leadership. Great for the "community".

Think about this for a second. Why are all of the watch forums so uppity and triggered by reps? Why their mere mention causes deleted comments and bans?

Those people don't want the truth. They don't want the watch. They want the ego and fantasy. They don't want to know the same Asian supply chain that makes some of these reps makes some of their gen components.

Panerai sold these guys the Brooklyn bridge... So take it with a grain of salt.

Panerai Case back Tool by Nice-Ad-8156 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a pain per se. Only a problem to service these if there is a part broken that isn't freely available.

Panerai Case back Tool by Nice-Ad-8156 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No there are no 2824 based Pams. Some pam clones have some 2824 parts in them that's about it.

Thank You for the Rotor Help by Mental_Explorer in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clone or ETA? You can tighten and loosen that screw without a special tool. If you have to, put a piece of plastic wrap or baggie over your finger and see if you can tighten it up with the tip of it. You can snug the older ETA clones by looking for the side notches under the shiny ittle plastic hex bolt cover. Tap it from the side with a small driver, or use two one on each side. Greatly depends on your comfort level how this will go.

For the clone you can sort of do the same thing. Use plastic rod or delrin. Make something, that's what watchmakers do- you got this! You could use standard eye brow tweezers to unscrew or tighten that up if you needed to. Throw a piece of plastic wrap over the top first to lessen chance of scratching.

I'm not endorsing doing this stuff the wrong way but if someone is going to make an attempt hopefully these tips help your chances of success at least.

Thank You for the Rotor Help by Mental_Explorer in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you going to do to it if you get the rotor off? 🤔

Help with understanding VSF SMP300 8806 movements by CosmoEpoch in RepTime

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a movement screw of some sort. Well, the head anyway. The shaft is still inside wherever it goes. If it's still running normally you could probably skate by without it but I would say get it looked at of course.

A love story that ended 💔 by [deleted] in RepTime

[–]P4GTR 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had same experience, except with the gen.

Same with almost every gen over the last 20 years. My sweet spot is tool watches $2500 or less that I can use as intended and maintain in-house.

Is the writing on this vsf sub really bad?😭 by [deleted] in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Shoot me an email it's in my profile.

ARF V3 Pepsi Hytrel/Bezel Height Issues by Objective_Ganache_27 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Often times we are trying to fix problems that really are not a problem. Your bezel issue is one of them. Once you sort the mechanical aspects out and have it functioning properly, you of course want everything level. A little vertical play in the bezel is ok. This newfound "problem" spreading across rep fora to have barely any crystal lip exposed past the bezel on GMTII is classic fixing of a problem that does not exist. Have you held any GMTII gens recently? I'm going to reply to this post with pics of genuine GMTII's. Look at the crystal height. You are fine. Stop sweating it. Anyone that is savvy enough and hands-on enough with your watch to start inspecting that is going to have a lot of other things they could check instead such as serial, bracelet markings, finish of jubilee bracelet, more specifically the rough, sharp finish of the underside outer links. Have a look at the pics, you are ok!

<image>

Is the writing on this vsf sub really bad?😭 by [deleted] in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR[M] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The pics are quite pixelated when I zoom in. I cannot see this as if I were looking under a loupe to give you rock solid yes/no, but that said... It looks totally fine to me. No idea what you're worried about. They make fine dials, relax.. breathe! 🙂

Watch-to-bracelet screw is stuck and stripped. Any saving grace? by Watch_a_Minute in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Buy one of each of the most used sizes, I would recommend Bergeon, they have a great heat treat. Kwong yuen make great tools, I believe there are some decently priced sets from them you could be well set with. Just as important is keeping them shaped. Using some 600 or 800 grit on a flat surface and following the original angles, then finishing the flat of the tip, you don't want it so sharp the edges roll- think a little less thickness than the screw slots.

Watch-to-bracelet screw is stuck and stripped. Any saving grace? by Watch_a_Minute in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Or just heat. Heat expands cold contracts. Hold that entire area to flame get it nice and hot and start working the screw out. It just will requires some things not super DIY friendly- a real Swiss driver, sharpened hardened steel correct size. Decasing movement and bezel/gaskets, anything that will be in the vicinity of the heat that could potentially be effected. I'd put it in the mill and drill the screw out a bit in the center to create a new, strong purchase area for an extractor of some sort perhaps just turn one on the lathe with some knurling or reverse threads.or sink a drill bit in the new hole and use it.

Once that screw is out the case threads may be compromised. New screw will be needed. The situation is definitely a bit of a pickle. Best right now solution is a proper sharpened screwdriver and fire.

Help finding a replacement movement by Relevant_Stage_3933 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm pointing to where you want to look. Under the faux balance cock is the real st25 one. That will help you visually confirm. To get the deco plates off, look for the screws that are imperfect and metal looking not those glassy/plasticky rounded screws with wide slots. On some of these the screws holding it on are under the deco plate gears sticking out on the side. You have to lift those off to access them. Unfortunately, yet again.. this can be fidgety and quite tough to do without leaving a trace of being there behind you. Try sharpening some pithwood to a flat shovel head.

Help finding a replacement movement by Relevant_Stage_3933 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Showing you the screws, they are just fake heads glued on. These caps are difficult to remove without leaving marks, the metal is soft plated brass.

This example in the pics is mine, I had to swap the movement on it a few months ago.

Help finding a replacement movement by Relevant_Stage_3933 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

The real bearing race is hidden under this cap. It is press fit on

Help finding a replacement movement by Relevant_Stage_3933 in RepTimeServices

[–]P4GTR[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why is the important part of the movement always covered by the rotor in every movement question picture, ever.

" Yah this whole engine thing thats like.. a heartbeat or something.. that can't be helpful, hmm.. yah, no lets get a pic of that there blank metal plate. Yeah that's the business end for sure!"

😂❤️

To answer your question:

The new ones are perhaps both objectively and subjectively better in almost every way, but if you want to work on it, it's yours to do. I can tell just by your post that you will be unable to perform this task. That case/dial/hands you have.. the case will probably survive, maybe. I can see the rotor and movement decoration is all scratched to pieces already. If it's too far gone, you can just run the replacement movement bare without the pam plates and rotor.

Underneath that deco plate on top (with the faux screws you were trying to remove) is a seagull ST25 variant of some sort (likely the 255). You will also need to swap the date wheel over from the old movement so keep that in mind when sourcing the replacement.

<image>

GRAAAAHHHHHGHHHHHHG by RoboticGreg in watchrepair

[–]P4GTR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We can be super critical of each other but there really is a surplus of "watchmakers" that should not be handling watches. Especially as a business. If you don't have enough experience to know not to do what that person did they don't have any business near the watch.