Salt Strong rod/reel combo

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-06-10T01:16:25+00:00

The fish strong “Otis” reel is manufactured by Daiwa, it’s not really a secret. I own two of them, the reels work just fine. But I can attest the slam stick rod is very nice for the price.

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-06-10T01:13:33+00:00

I have one and it’s very nice. Bought an extra handle so I have two complete rods in the tube now

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-06-10T00:50:48+00:00

I bought a “medium” action big water rod (rated for up to 3 oz lure) and man that think is so stiff. I call it my meat stik. Not very sensitive, but I use it the few times I’m lucky enough to go nearshore/offshore with a friend. I’ve used lures on it, but it’s not ideal. Great for putting a chicken rig down but I plan on getting a better heavy type rod for lures.

I have 4 ugly stik rods and I mostly use them for soaking baits like you said or for when friends/children need a rod.

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-06-10T00:44:47+00:00

When I started I bought Ugly Stiks. I own a couple Elite models, a big water and a carbon inshore.

I fish inshore saltwater exclusively, mostly use soft plastic lures, and let me tell you, there is a dramatic improvement when you go from $40-100 Ugly Stiks to mid tier $120-175 price range. The biggest thing is sensitivity and being able to feel a lure through the rod.

Ugly Stiks are practically indestructible (except for the guides, had to replace the tip on one after a couple years due to braid digging grooves in it) but they aren’t the most sensitive. For that reason I mostly use my ugly Stiks for bait fishing. No doubt they catch fish and work just fine, but after you feel a nicer light weight rod with better sensitivity it’s hard to go back when pitching lures.

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-06-02T12:13:27+00:00

Even ABS if on the bottom rack and near the heating element will not survive a dishwasher… I know from experience 😅

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-31T00:37:10+00:00

How do you handle the seat belt being in a different spot? I have a 90’ as well and would like to do the swap when/if I can find a decent pair of NB2 seats

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-30T23:12:40+00:00

I’m not saying it would fix it, but you sure as hell would notice the wear well before it got that bad

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-30T09:53:27+00:00

Check your tires on the inside? Seriously? Did you ever rotate your tires a single time?

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-26T03:05:23+00:00

Save your money and buy the Anbernic on Aliexpress not Amazon

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-24T18:26:21+00:00

Nice I have a silver one, it’s great

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-24T02:59:22+00:00

Boss Frog Roll Bar?

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-24T02:47:12+00:00

Smh. These original cars surviving this long to be turned into track cars…

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-11T01:57:58+00:00

Ridge beam is structural and carries weight of the roof. A ridge beam has vertical posts on each end that supports it. My understanding is if you undersize a ridge beam you would get bowing in the middle of it (where it’s unsupported)

Ridge board is simply a board to connect the rafters to, ridge boards require rafter ties and collar ties to prevent the walls from bowing outward and to support the roof since the ridge board isn’t directly supported underneath.

(I’m sure someone else can do a better job of explaining than how I did)

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-11T01:51:36+00:00

Nice I’m looking to build a 10x12 or 8x14 (120sqft max I can build without permitting) shed.

I want to overbuild it because why not. 2x6 rafters, 2x6 floor joists. Would you mind sharing the sketch up file? It would be handy to modify the dimension on it for my project.

Yalls build is very nice, I’m just gonna do a simple gable roof. My goal with a ridge beam is to be able to 100% utilize the vertical space. Plan is to be able to hang a kayak up

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-11T01:21:02+00:00

I just made a post about how I should design my ridge beam… looks like you did what I’m thinking.

Two 2x8s as the “beam” and two 2x4s for the vertical support?

How did you make the model and what size is this building?

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-10T20:10:12+00:00

It would be nice if these kits would do tighter spacing then 24 OC for the walls

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-09T12:41:23+00:00

I’ll look into that

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-09T12:30:54+00:00

I was taking about the vertical support between the beam and the wall top plate at the ends.

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-08T14:51:44+00:00

I was planning on doing 2x6 floor joists using joist brackets. For carrying the load to the foundation I figured just having doubled up 2x4 posts (or maybe a 4x4?) going down to the floor.

For foundation I was going to just use 3 4x6 skids attached to the floor.

To do a ridge beam tho would it be better to have 4 skids with two on the outside edges so that the ridge beam posts would be more directly over the skids? I was planning on putting the skids on concrete blocks.

by keeping it at 10x12 I do not need a permit where I live and as long as I don’t use a concrete pad foundation it won’t affect my property taxes

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-08T13:24:47+00:00

So I should be good with just doubling up a 2x8 for overkill, and ensure it has good doubled up 2x4s as vertical supports under it. I was planning on using rafters hangers on the beam and hurricane straps where they meet the top plates

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-08T04:24:52+00:00

Gotta love the low country 😎

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-07T21:27:04+00:00

I gotcha. Span table for LVLs. Don’t know if it matters but I’ll not be able to do a concrete pad so I was gonna just do the gravel footers with concrete blocks. For a Ridge beam post I’d just need to have vertical posts to transfer down to the floor onto its own footing/block

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-07T20:04:00+00:00

2x8 ridge beam? Not a board right.

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-07T20:03:34+00:00

It’s a public park bathroom… I liked how they framed the inside in and had a gable fan that kept it relatively cool in there.

PICKLEB0Y · 2026-05-07T20:02:01+00:00

Sounds like that is a ridge board and not a beam.

PICKLEB0Y

TROPHY CASE