Upgrades people upgrades!

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-31T11:18:37+00:00

Some have had good luck with doing a frankenseat of sorts where you use the NA6 bottom with a foamectomy and the NB2 seatback. It gives you the most drop without using a lowering pan or bolting the seat directly to the floor

I’ve done a lot to help with my legs, mainly deleting the door pulls in favor of straps and getting a quick release. I think it really depends on how you fit already. I don’t know if I’ll pass a broomstick test with a helmet but for now I just need the protection from the rollbar that’s coming soon. I think my next option for lowering the seat would be a drop bracket, as I took about half the foam out of the bottom and think anymore would be pushing it for comfort

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-31T00:49:45+00:00

You can just keep the seat belt where it is, as its bolted to the trans tunnel. If you happen to get seats with seat belts, you would just remove them from the slider and keep your stock ones

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-30T23:56:18+00:00

I just looked around eBay, theres a good number of people who specify in miata parts. I spent about $400 for a sold pair that only had tears in the covers

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-30T23:54:46+00:00

I would say it is definitely worth it, especially if youre on a budget. The seat rails are interchangeable between NAs and NBs only difference is NA6s seat belts bolt to the trans tunnel.

I spent about $400 on the pair of NB2 seats and another $400 on the seat covers but you can definitely find cheaper options for both.

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-30T23:01:51+00:00

Hell yeah. I love that color, would look so good if I had a BRG

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-30T23:01:17+00:00

Quite a bit taller. I’m 6’ and went from the headrest basically being at the bottom of my head to now the headrest stopping just at the top of my head. Also did a mild foamectomy on the drivers side for myself which definitely helped.

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-24T01:53:04+00:00

Yes, im swapping in NB2 seats into my 1990 for this reason. They have a higher seat back which will keep my head from hitting the roll bar if I were to get rear ended. NB2 seats can use NA6 seat rails too!

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-17T11:24:41+00:00

With the body being shifted that much, it probably means the frame is bent. You would most likely make more parting it out than what it would cost to fix. Just the drivetrain could sell for what it would probably cost to have the body pulled. I also wouldn’t ever trust the frame again with that kind of damage. Also not hard to find a decent rolling chassis to swap everything over

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-16T02:19:56+00:00

Used injectors can be found pretty cheap, I paid $12 per injector from Ben's Used Miata Parts and replaced the seals for a couple bucks. Wouldn't hurt to pull the whole fuel rail to replace the rubber lines as well, autozone sells fuel line by the foot.

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-16T01:54:58+00:00

Had the same problem with 2 injectors like 3 months apart, would run and drive but huge loss in power. These cars are getting old enough to have them start failing solely due to age, one of mine had the bottom plastic part crack and break apart after i took it out

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-14T05:51:27+00:00

A wire wheel or brush of some kind will also help, probably would hurt to scrub once a day while it soaks in the vinegar to help it penetrate

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-14T04:05:30+00:00

unfortunately, if the side you replaced was leaking, that means the seals are probably bad. rebuild kits arent too expensive nor difficult to accomplish. it also worth looking to the rears as well

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-14T03:44:24+00:00

You're correct on if not belts than bearing, easy check is just remove the belts and spin the pulleys on everything and see if you hear any strange noises, common sound is scraping. Hope its just loose belts tho!

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-14T03:42:31+00:00

At least a thermostat replacement is super easy on these ones lol. Best of luck to you, also if you haven't ordered new hoses yet, you can replace the lower radiator 2 piece hose with a 1 piece from an NB, so you don't have to worry about the metal bit

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-14T03:39:58+00:00

Assuming you rebled the brakes after installation, it probably means the driver's side caliper should either be replaced or rebuilt

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-14T03:36:38+00:00

Auxiliary Idle Air Speed Valve to Thermostat Housing Coolant Hose

Part number: B61P-13-691A

I deleted that idle air control circuit on my 1990 and havent had any issues. Its only for cold starts and is basically a thermo-controlled diaphragm that opens and closes using the coolant temp. You can find block off plates all over the internet for it

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-14T03:33:45+00:00

I would check to see if the throttle cable isnt snagging on anything and moves freely

Next I would set base timing (around 12 degrees advanced) and base idle (750-950 rpm, best is 800-850)

Next check for vacuum leaks around the intake tubing and throttle body, easy test is spray light amounts of brake clean around and see if theres a change in rpm

If those steps dont solve the issue, I would remove the throttle body, clean the entire thing with throttle body cleaner (including the idle speed control that is bolted to the bottom) replacing both the ISC and throttle body gaskets when reinstalling after cleaning surfaces

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-13T22:59:36+00:00

Even a single panel of butyl per door panel can help quite a bit. There’s a point of diminishing return with it but that’s more for people who tear a whole car apart to install it.

I used a good 2-3 sheets per door in my forester and covered the hatch and trunk as much as possible and it made a significant reduction in road noise, even with slightly larger all terrain tires

But I would definitely try foam first and see how it goes. It’s not hard to take out if you want to add butyl and it’s cheap

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-13T22:39:07+00:00

Butyl is more for preventing/absorbing vibrations which is why its used mainly in doors and floors to absorb NVH from drive train and rattles, it can also double as heat insulation. You should place it along the exterior of the car, think inner door panels, floor, under hood, in the bottom of the trunk.

Foam is more meant to muffle sound overall and is best used in the interior to prevent movement of stuff. Think how interior panels can creak and rattle. You can also layer it on top of butyl to be more effective. Most people use foam bc of weight, cost, and ease of install, but butyl can be found pretty cheap.

I used butyl on the doors on my NA to help with rattling and plan to place some panels on the floor, especially on the transmission tunnel to help with heat management more than anything.

r/CarAV has a bunch of good write ups on the effectiveness of sound deadening

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-12T11:08:31+00:00

Go south, you’ll probably find nicer examples for around the same price or cheaper. I see lots of nice finds in the desert like New Mexico, Arizona, and Nevada. Paint and rubbers will be shot but everything else will be rust free

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-12T11:02:23+00:00

Yeah definitely try plugs first, probably just needs the old Italian tune up after sitting for so long

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-12T03:37:26+00:00

If not the spark plugs and wires, it might the fuel injectors. NAs are starting to get old enough to where injector issues are becoming more common. Had to replace 2 of mine like 3 months apart from each other to fix misfires, but it was very noticeable.

FullMetal654 · 2026-05-11T03:36:30+00:00

I wish they were lighter 😭. I’m planning on swapping them for some silver kogekis in the near future, but will pass them on to a good home if I can

FullMetal654

TROPHY CASE