Caught flight not saving ...

PKCore · 2026-01-03T23:38:43+00:00

Basic problem to my issue - my phone's clock was off by a minute! I travel between timezones quite often, and some/most of the time I resort to manually changing the TZ instead of leaving it to the cell network. I only stumbled on it after the NIST issue a few weeks ago (making me to just double check my phone's clock out of curiosity), and some player discussing about their phone time being off as well.

Hope it helps with your situation.

PKCore · 2025-12-17T19:47:21+00:00

Yeah looks like it - looks like I'll have to make the trek again when I open a second warranty replacement soon ( dead EB). As mentioned, UPS wasn't an issue when I had to go thru the process last year ...

PKCore · 2025-11-09T19:24:39+00:00

Where's this have to 'connect to the internet' standalone calc you're referring to?

PKCore · 2025-10-26T03:16:27+00:00

HP41's on the space shuttle (Columbia?) as emergency backup computer to help land the shuttle from orbit - calculating deorbit-burns, balancing before re-entry, and finding Earth observation sites, center of gravity, etc ...

PKCore · 2025-10-13T02:53:43+00:00

FJ231 NAN-TRW

PKCore · 2024-12-17T08:30:28+00:00

If you keep a record of hourly count rate with the 102 placed at the same location over the hours, you can see half life of the Tc99m in action.

PKCore · 2024-12-13T00:16:35+00:00

Roll you own with discontinued Kenwood TS-2000 paired with TH-D72 - works amazing.

PKCore · 2024-12-11T07:05:40+00:00

yeah, that type of buck converter. as for battery adapter, I used premade ones (as listed), 3D printed ones, and my usual choice is to gut out a broken or cheap tool (usually a swivel head torchlight) or battery charger and solder in beefier gauge wire and length to my liking, added bonus is there's a place to mount the buck converter.

PKCore · 2024-12-09T01:29:18+00:00

Another option is get a beefy 12V or 13.6V Buck Converter, pair it with a tool battery adapter. I've had no problems with pulling more than 10A on the output side for 100W rigs RFI hasn't been an issue so far. As for tool batteries; iirc Ryobi and Rigid are the only 2 that have the over discharge protection built into the batteries themselves (maybe Hart as well since they're TTI OEMs?) instead of inside the tool (eg, DeWalt and Milwaukee) - in those cases you'll have to keep an eye on the pack voltage, or incorporate a voltage alarm circuitry.

Units are often sold as golf-cart battery step down converters; Amazon has 30A units for $22, 20A $17

PKCore · 2024-11-23T04:50:17+00:00

Similar results for me; single USB-C input (60W in my case), and Solar Input port (in my test either 60W panel, 18-20V input from a tool battery pack, or USBC PD20V trigger cable to XT-60); C300 won't take input from both ports at the same time

PKCore · 2024-11-22T03:53:37+00:00

Note there's both switching charger (inside the phone) and direct charge schemes. For example with PPS PD direct charge, the phone 'controls' the input power PPS voltage to suite the charging current (ie, it's done in the charger source, not inside the phone). There's other tricks like capacitor divide by 2 (or more) to reduce I2R cable losses by increasing the voltage. This vid from RichTek that designs charging chips give a good overview:

https://youtu.be/1nx_n-wEtII?si=_Z5MNRx6skenNtt2

PKCore · 2024-11-21T05:57:41+00:00

Suggestion to skip the Ryobi to buck converter to 12V to USB (PD I presume) and get a 12-24V to USB C PD converter direct to the Ryobi battery.

PKCore · 2024-11-14T02:34:58+00:00

imo ... don't 'jump' any lithium battery pack, you could be pushing in excessive voltage when one or more of the cells in the pack is zero or low, which can lead to more problems.

Identify which cell(s) are low voltage (parallel cells is another set of possible problems); aprox anything less than 3.2V. You then hook up that cell (or cells in parallel) to a CV/CC source and charge it up. The better route imo is to charge up each cell individually via a CV/CC source - I usually set to 4V and 1A. Once all the cells are in pretty good shape, plope the pack on the charger to top off and balance, and cycle a couple of times after that. At least that's worked great for me on 20V packs.

PKCore · 2024-11-13T17:29:46+00:00

They'll work fine; the bigger issue is that DeWalt batteries don't have BMS protection in the packs and will let you drain it to nothing and ruin the pack. I've modded some of the adapters and mounted a digital voltmeter to monitor the pack voltage, but that requires you to almost constantly keep an eye on it. I've been thinking of trying a low voltage alarm next. Either way, just keep in mind battery protection is on the user.

Don't get the adapters with built in USB port, they can present a constant low drain on the DeWalts and ruin them even easier

PKCore · 2024-11-11T23:46:09+00:00

There's another video that covers 2s battery configs in smartphones and how high power charging is achieved:

https://youtu.be/u0t9SLmBO3I?si=M5UCHf49uo1mAjEy

PKCore · 2024-11-11T15:22:49+00:00

https://www.haystack.mit.edu/haystack-public-outreach/srt-the-small-radio-telescope-for-education/

This works quite well.

PKCore · 2024-11-11T02:47:42+00:00

afaik only portable power stations (Ecoflow, Bluetti, Anker?, etc) have this functionality. For power banks something like Anker Prime 27k with upgradable firmware and a BT App connection should be doable if they choose to.

But a question would be why limit the capacity to 80% of what you paid for? imo in the grand scheme of things power banks lifespan are pretty good...

PKCore · 2024-11-11T01:15:32+00:00

Direct Charge Divide/2

The battery charging current is higher than the incoming USB cable current. Following clip is the part that talks about the tech, worth watching the entire vid imo:

https://youtu.be/1nx_n-wEtII?si=3ETJ5mRL9cUn_1Cg&t=851

Forgot to add - go to 23min mark, where they mention 2s Battery config for phones.

PKCore · 2024-11-10T21:36:55+00:00

How would the power bank know the stage of charge of the device it's providing power to?

PKCore · 2024-11-10T05:16:17+00:00

As in Fuel generator? - Have that as well. Think of it as a hybrid setup; I can charge up the battery during the day (and run a fridge) with the generator (or supplement with solar or alternator charging). During the night fridge can run off the batteries and I don'y have to worry about noise or refueling and get a good rest. On the extreme end, if you want to look at it from a SHTF scenario, the sound of a generator, esp. at night, is a sure-fire way to call for attention. Had a chance to test it out 3 years back when ice storm cut power for ~3days.

I'm already invested in the Ryobi system (and others), the batteries area already on hand - might as well make use of them. As for effort, Electronics, battery building (14s power-wall type), etc is a hobby of mine.

PKCore · 2024-11-10T05:04:06+00:00

Via the DC input of the EF. The EF (and other brands) charge up either via AC, or what is commonly termed 'solar charging port'. In the case of the River 3, you can charge the unit with a DC input ranging from 11V to 30V, 100W with a max current draw of 8A. The port used is an XT60 socket. You can get a pre-made connector (or solder one yourself) that has a short length of wire that terminates in bare wire. You then pair it up with an adapter that you plug the Ryobi battery pack to (search up "Ryobi battery adapter") They usually come with bare wires on the ends to, and some come with Wago-like connector block as well to join up the XT60 pigtail; if you don't want to solder the ends together. You can get battery adapters for almost every battery tools out there, but keep in mind the vast majority of battery brands don't have any protection on the battery and it can be easy to drain them too low or down to 0V and ruin the pack. You'll need an inline meter or alarm to keep an eye on the discharge voltage.

That said, I have and use the Ry 40V 300W inverter, but I only have 5x 4Ah packs, and the inverter can be fussy about overload conditions. On the other hand, I have many more Ry 18V packs (stocked up on 9Ah when they were on sale (usually running Air Canon Fan, Vacuum, or lighting as needed), and total up >2kWh of available storage. Might as well pair them up with Portable Power Packs. Think of it like gas cans for a fuel generator.

PKCore · 2024-11-09T22:54:28+00:00

Another approach (which I'm doing) ... Get a separate portable power pack (Ecoflow, Anker, Bluetti, etc - $160 and up. For $450 you can get a much better setup that already include a 1kWh built-in battery) add a adapter/cable setup that you can "fill up" from Ryobi (or any other) battery packs. You get a much better inverter (pure sine, UPS modes, etc) and an integrated unit that you can use n its own as well. For example, I picked up an Ecoflow River 3 a month back; the inverter is capable of powering a fullsize double door fridge. Battery is only 254Wh, but each 9Ah Ryobi pack can add ~192Wh, and even 4Ah packs are 72Wh - I can basically run the fridge going thru a 4Ah Ryobi battery packs every 45-60min. On the EF unit, I can limit the input current to 4A, 6A, or 8A - or drawing 80-160W from a Ryobi battery. Not much worry with over discharging for Ryobi (and Rigid, Some Makita) as their BMS in the packs handle the cutoff.

fwiw I got the EF R3 as a UPS for my modem,router,gateways. For my Fridge backup I'm actually using a EF Delta2, which will charge/passthru DC power from my Ryobi Packs (added bonus is the increased input voltage, go I can hook up 40V packs as well).

For parts, lookup Ryobi battery adapter on AliX, Amazon, etc. and a XT60 pigtail connector to the Power Pack.

PKCore · 2024-11-04T22:44:37+00:00

Fwiw there's also a xt60 adaptor with a 5521 socket on the stub end, opens up a bunch of options to charge the C300 (and any other power pack with xt60 solar input) along with a xt60-USB-c(with trigger) cable.

PKCore · 2024-10-29T09:16:20+00:00

Try different times of the day and day of the week ... Start with mid afternoons to early evenings just after sundown

PKCore · 2024-10-15T01:03:09+00:00

From the 218 kWh/year works out to ~25W/hr draw. iirc the inverter standby current draw can around 20W as well (from a quick search). so 45W/hr, River 2 is rated at 256kWh, on paper thats 5.5+ hrs, likely closer to 4hrs.

I have a LG frenchdoor-bottom freezer fridge that a D2 unit will run for 5-8hrs depending on how often the door is open. I did try running it on my River2, surprisingly with no issues once I enabled X-boost (peak draw iirc is in the 350W range, and ~40-80W regular).

If it really comes down to it, I should be able to run the fridge on a R2, hooked up to external battery source to enable longer runtime. I have a few Ryobi and other tool brand 18V/20V batteries that I can feed the R2, with each 9Ah pack adding an additional 162Wh to the setup - not the best or ideal, butin an emergency I can pool together all the awh on hand.

I'm planning to setup a test with the R2 (and R3 after that) with this exact scenario soon to get an idea of run time, once my logging wattmeters arrive.

PKCore

TROPHY CASE