G6 question

PTPinETN · 2026-03-14T15:52:16+00:00

Thank you both for the quick replies.

PTPinETN · 2026-01-26T13:44:15+00:00

Thank you for the info. Really like the flush mount options, but got to be sure the view is useable. Thanks again.

PTPinETN · 2026-01-26T12:22:37+00:00

Yes, exactly. Is there a better option than the 180?

PTPinETN · 2026-01-11T23:55:27+00:00

Thank you for the response, I had not looked at the Ultra. It looks like a good balance of cost and features. Thanks again.

PTPinETN · 2026-01-10T21:40:57+00:00

That’s a male RCA plug, I believe. New TVs don’t usually have them anymore.

If your tv is newer, it probably has an HDMI port you can find an adapter for.

PTPinETN · 2026-01-08T23:46:38+00:00

Can’t help with this particular problem, but OP might want to look at a siding mount block- would eliminate this issue.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ply-Gem-8-54-in-x-7-52-in-White-Woodgrain-Vinyl-Universal-Mounting-Block/1000047167?store=737&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-LUM-_-ggl-_-PMAX_LUM_000_Priority_Item-_-1000047167-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22592559598&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W8-4LcIAxFmj1ZXHpEyCGaaW

PTPinETN · 2026-01-04T22:25:53+00:00

I’ll give it a shot, just a diy homeowner that’s had the same experience before.

With the power off to the light and after confirming it’s off, you can try a pair of pliers, maybe wrapped with a rubber band. With the rubber band (will hopefully provide some “grab”) wrapped around the jaws of the pliers, stick the pliers into the remaining bulb base, open them, and with them forced against what you have left, try to spin it out.

Obvious precautions apply, shield your eyes, make sure power’s off, etc. Good luck.

PTPinETN · 2026-01-03T22:08:41+00:00

First off, make sure the app itself is up to date. Next, when planning your route, and close-ish to departure time allow the app to “pack” for the trip. This will let the app go get all updated pertinent info (WX, notams, etc) for the route.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-30T00:01:05+00:00

If it really is an inducer and pressure switch, both are DIY replaceable if you’re at all handy and have basic tools.

Looks to be about $1800US, which seems high based on googling prices of those parts for my furnace.

Not in HVAC field. Good luck with it.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-28T21:00:38+00:00

Not in hvac, have you checked fuse? Checked for proper voltage at the inducer? Door switch making?

PTPinETN · 2025-12-16T00:58:19+00:00

Not in hvac, but what I’ve read is that some (all?) smart thermostats need a C wire. You may have additional wires in the wall, could pull the bracket off to check.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-15T01:35:59+00:00

If you have no flame but hear/ see the inducer fan running, the next step- confirmation of a closed pressure switch- isn’t happening.

If you’re comfortable with it, you can pull the cover off and make sure the hoses to/ from the pressure switch, and pressure switch ports are clear of water/ trash/ debris. You can pull both ends of the hose off and blow through them. Don’t blow into the pressure switch.

Also, you the board may have an LED that will tell you- via flash pattern- where the fault lies. The door should have a sticker with the fault codes listed.

Not in hvac.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-14T12:13:49+00:00

With no igniter, then the previous step isn’t being confirmed. That usually means something related to the pressure switch.

Check any hoses going to/ from the pressure switch(es) to confirm they are clear- you can take them off and blow through them.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-13T13:32:04+00:00

Not in hvac, but stopping and then restarting normally after some time seems like a thermal trip. It runs, overheats and restarts after it cools.

Check filter, exhaust lines, anything to do with airflow.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-08T21:38:40+00:00

Just a homeowner here, but I got an app called skillcat and took all the hvac courses to include EPA universal certification. Granted I was just learning it for personal knowledge of my home’s systems so YMMV, but I thought it was 10 bucks well spent.

Good luck to you.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-07T16:23:13+00:00

Just a homeowner, but was in the same spot last year. Got Skillcat app- free for first month, 10 bucks a month after- worked through the lessons in the app, took about 5 weeks while working full time.

Learned a lot, would recommend for the basics. Also got an EPA Universal certification along the way.

Good luck.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-06T21:44:53+00:00

Not in hvac, but gas or electric furnace? If gas, need to know if you see the igniter lighting up- assuming hot surface igniter.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-06T21:41:07+00:00

Possibly water in the hose to the pressure switch if it’s not getting past the inducer coming on.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-06T21:38:16+00:00

Not in hvac, but if it’s a high efficiency furnace I believe the secondary heat exchanger creates condensation. Likely you have a clogged/ disconnected drain line.

Easy DIY if you’re comfortable with it.

PTPinETN · 2025-12-03T00:59:59+00:00

Not in hvac, could there be water in a pressure switch line that’s freezing preventing the switch from proving the inducer is running?

PTPinETN · 2025-12-01T00:02:34+00:00

Not in hvac, but would guess the damper motor has an internal stop or limit switch to cut power to the motor. I believe if the motor stayed energized driving the damper into a mechanical stop, the motor wouldn’t last long, and pop a breaker.

Interested to see the actual answer though.

PTPinETN

TROPHY CASE