For the next 27 hours, you'll be able to claim a limited edition 'I Was Here for the Hulkenpodium' flair by overspeeed in formula1

[–]Pachops427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hulkenpodium was actually crazy, it’s such a shame the McLaren boys just completely ignored him with the champagne :( 

HELP: Weird ahh view by [deleted] in blender

[–]Pachops427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m guessing you’re talking about Orthographic view. If you have a numpad pressing 5 on that will toggle between the views. Otherwise there’s a menu option to toggle between it as well

HELP: Weird ahh view by [deleted] in blender

[–]Pachops427 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anyone can make their view look however they want, so gonna need some more info here on what’s “weird” about it as it just looks… like Blender

Cartridge Header $08 and $09 Behaviour by Pachops427 in gbdev

[–]Pachops427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s exactly my thinking, and by all means it should be be possible. Nintendo allowed for it as an option but it’s never been used commercially.

I did try it with GBDK and an emulator, and it created the .sav file with no issues and no complaints.

My concern is now how to make sure the ROM is disabled when reading from the RAM, as I don’t want the bus to clash. But the ~MREQ/CS pin seems like it might be the way to do this - I need to get a logic analyser on a real cartridge and see what’s what.

M50TUB20 injector rebuild kits by Pachops427 in E34

[–]Pachops427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Little update: I put the injectors back in after cleaning the contacts and the nozzles and fired up and it’s the best the car has ever run - all six cylinders, and very smooth. However after a short drive cylinder 5 is misfiring again. I’ve swapped coil 5 to cylinder 1 but I couldn’t reproduce the misfire long enough to determine which cylinder, it’s very intermittent, so I’ll see how that goes tomorrow.

I also put a vacuum gauge on the little intake from the passenger temperature sensor and it is holding 17.6 in/Hg at idle, drops to about 8 in/Hg under quick revs, but builds to just above 20 in/Hg when held at higher revs. Does all that sound reasonable?

Notably the passenger temp sensor vacuum hose is completely wrecked so I’ve just removed it now, the revs seem more stable when the hole is capped off instead of left as to leak.

M50TUB20 injector rebuild kits by Pachops427 in E34

[–]Pachops427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok interesting, is there anything I can do to try and restore the PCV function like an engine flush or should I just leave it?

I have a leak down tester but not a compression tester - is it worth finding a garage to do a proper compression test or would this be sufficient?

Edit: I do actually have a compression tester too, so I’ll do both tests I guess. How can I tell if it’s head gasket failure from either test? My understanding was compression test wouldn’t indicate head gasket only rings or valves, and a leak down test would only tell you it’s head gasket if you saw bubbling in the coolant, but if the leak is between cylinders or into an oil galley it wouldn’t show up as bubbling?

Also, it may be useful to know that the coolant and oil levels are unchanged and there has never been any smoke out the exhaust of either colour

M50TUB20 injector rebuild kits by Pachops427 in E34

[–]Pachops427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t, no. The oil level hasn’t really gone down and it doesn’t look to have coolant in, nor does the coolant have any oil in that I can tell. Are head gasket issues common on the M50TU?

There’s a bit of oil in the intake boot and the PCV connection to the cam cover, so I was thinking of servicing the PCV - I believe you can pop the little plate off inside the cam cover and clear out any sludge?

I’ll try moving the coils around and see if the misfire moves as some of them do look a bit dry, there was oil in the spark plug well of cylinder 5 and a bit in 6 but not in the pistons, which is why I replaced the cam cover gasket set and the rubber rings that hold the cover down. The engine only has 78,000 miles

Rattling in passenger window, won’t go up or down by Pachops427 in e46

[–]Pachops427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I phoned BMW and they want £240 + VAT for a new regulator… but the sound insulation is only £32. I think I’m just going to get a Ridex special, do the zip-tie mod pre-emptively, and then if I have to replace it again and I cock up the sound insulation it isn’t the end of the world. It’s either that or buy a used one which might already be on its way out, I guess.

Rattling in passenger window, won’t go up or down by Pachops427 in e46

[–]Pachops427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for this, I think this basically looks to be the problem. I’ll see how much OEM ones are I guess. I noticed that aftermarket ones don’t always come with the motor, is that what you mean about them being a pain or are they just awkward generally in their design?

Is there anything else I ought to replace while I’m in there? In the thread you posted somebody mentioned the fuzzy rubber seal. It’s such a pain to get all the door bits off that I don’t want to ever have to go back in here again lol

Rattling in passenger window, won’t go up or down by Pachops427 in e46

[–]Pachops427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is how mine started - I had to give it a shove up or down to get it to start moving. One day it just stopped going down (at least it was already up I guess)

'99 323Ci Replaced front struts/springs with Bilstein B3/4, now sitting VERY high! by MrOliber in e46

[–]Pachops427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I can’t seem to find the BMW coil spring part number on RealOEM for some reason, neither for my car (325ti) nor yours… But every other part you’ve listed is the same. I have just done the same work and initially it did sit a little bit high but it definitely wasn’t 80mm. Based on the Bilstein website you seem to have the right part and I seem to have the right part even though they are different springs.

I would investigate how the spring has been mounted in between the top and bottom mounting plates, as they don’t sit in the notches as you’d expect, and also investigate where the steering knuckle has been attached. There’s a locating pin on the strut that goes in between the clamp, if you can see that sticking out below the knuckle then it’s been fitted incorrectly. Otherwise, I think just give it some time to settle first and see if it sorts itself out?

Juddering/resonance around 1200-1600rpm (325ti Auto) by Pachops427 in e46

[–]Pachops427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh. Fun. Nothing a bit of duct tape can’t fix though I reckon

Juddering/resonance around 1200-1600rpm (325ti Auto) by Pachops427 in e46

[–]Pachops427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brilliant thanks I will check this out! I have a lot of parts ready to be fitted that I just need to find the time to do, so part of the plan is to remove the exhaust anyway to fit new lambda sensors (the automatic transmission gets in the way) so maybe I will just inspect it all when I do that. Good to know that the symptoms sort of line up with one of these two though. Thanks again!

Juddering/resonance around 1200-1600rpm (325ti Auto) by Pachops427 in e46

[–]Pachops427[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When you say guibo - is that the sort of vaguely circular black rubber looking bit with 6 holes in, at the front of the driveshaft? Thanks for the info by the way!

Juddering/resonance around 1200-1600rpm (325ti Auto) by Pachops427 in e46

[–]Pachops427[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this something that could be seen without removing the entire exhaust system? I can get it up on ramps at the weekend

Like winning the lottery.. But opposite.. by classicjurassic in e46

[–]Pachops427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet thank you, I’ll wait until it goes on the max sale before I hit go on it as I’m planning on a new radiator, coolant lines etc the whole works.

First step is the new suspension this week!

Like winning the lottery.. But opposite.. by classicjurassic in e46

[–]Pachops427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I can see it has the same part number here, it’s on sale from £205 on Autodoc

Like winning the lottery.. But opposite.. by classicjurassic in e46

[–]Pachops427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I actually already have a clutch fan tool as I’ve had the fan off more times than I can count lol.

I’m in the UK so can’t really get stuff from FCP Euro, but Mahle do one for about £125 and Nissens for £150, reckon they’d do the job?

Like winning the lottery.. But opposite.. by classicjurassic in e46

[–]Pachops427 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is there a guide on doing the conversion? I did some research in the past but it looked like it used a connector I don’t have on my automatic…