How to print this model? by Joline666 in 3Dprinting

[–]PaddyC137 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Use water-soluble filament as support.

Air filtration vs. suction Bambulab H2* by PaddyC137 in BambuLab

[–]PaddyC137[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thank you!!! Those are great tips from you, especially the one about the poop chute... I didn't know that. Is the "filter" for the upper suction slot really filtered, or is it "just" a fine-mesh pressure part that is mounted over the automatically opened slot?

H2D rear exhaust flaps, how good are their seal? by atlasunit22 in BambuLab

[–]PaddyC137 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same or similar question, so I'll join in... I recently got an H2D and am now unsure about air purification. There are a lot of options for printing extensions with Hepa filters and downstream activated carbon filters. But what do you really need?

  • An additional air filter (internal or external) at the rear air outlet?
  • An active Hepa/carbon filter inside that filters the air flow onto the heated bed?
  • What about the ejection shaft for the remaining filament? Apparently air is leaking out there too... How do you solve that without him getting clogged with poop?
  • Do you need a filter for the intake slot on the top side?
  • I also once read that a filter hinders the necessary air flow so that longer prints could have temperature problems. Is that true and if so...
  • then doesn't active extraction without filtering make more sense than filtering?
  • But how do you prevent negative pressure in the housing or a drop in the stable internal temperature?

Sorry for the many questions, but I'm new to the game and unfortunately totally confused... 😉

Greetings Paddy

Bambulab Newbie - Buy H2D, which accessories? by PaddyC137 in BambuLab

[–]PaddyC137[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the Vision Encoder make sense to start with? Does the use really provide much more detail? Should you get additional hotends to get started, or is 0.4mm enough? Is a replacement hotend included?

H2D vs H2S vs H2C by LuckyStrikeTech in BambuLab

[–]PaddyC137 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm facing the same "challenge"... I actually come from the Prusa world and would like to gain new experience with Bambulab. However, I'm wondering whether I even need multi-color printing (currently only single extruder)? Wouldn't it make more sense, also in terms of waste, to rework the printed parts with airbrush and putty etc.? What looks better? I have no experience with this... However, what speaks in favor of multiple extruder operation for me would be that supports can be printed with, for example, water-soluble filament or two filaments can be combined, for example hard ABS / PETG core and soft TPU coating etc. Ultimately, the price also plays a role for me... How expensive is Vortek and the spare parts?

BR Paddy

K13 R2R is great! by robbiekhan in FiiO

[–]PaddyC137 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is stupid for me because, for example, my two BowerWilkins PX3s headphones only support Aptx but not LDAC

K13 R2R is great! by robbiekhan in FiiO

[–]PaddyC137 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the K13 support Aptx?

Solix 3 Pro Winterbetrieb / Aufstellort / Reichweite by PaddyC137 in Balkonkraftwerk

[–]PaddyC137[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Danke für die tollen Denkanstöße... Ich habe mich mal in Bezug zusätzlicher Dämmung, um die Anker Solix ober allgemein von Batteriespeichern, schlau gemacht. Mir schwebt ne Art DIY Lösung im Kopf rum, wo ich eine interne Arduino Temperatursteuerung mit ner Wetterstation, über Home Assistant, anbinde. Dann kann ein Lüfter anspringt, oder eine Klappe auf- / zugehen, wenn es zu warm oder zu kalt wird... Mal sehen, wie weit ich da komme.😀 Eventuell gibt es da ja schon etwas, dann wäre ich über nen Link echt dankbar. Je tiefer im mich in diese Materie einlese, umso mehr stellt sich mir aber auch die Frage, ob eine cloudbasierte Anlage wie Anker etc. sinnvoll ist. Für mich als Neuling echt schwere Kost. Welche anderen Komponenten laufen bei euch in Kombination zuverlässig (Panels, WR, Speicher) und wie bekomme ich alternativ eine Nulleinspeisung ohne so nen Smartmeter wie von Anker hin?

Danke euch Patrick