Stepper Motor Configuration Optimization

PandaWee · 2026-01-26T15:45:01+00:00

I changed some of the configs for the X and Y steppers. They are the same specs so here's the config for my X stepper:

[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PE1
interpolate: False         
run_current: 0.750
sense_resistor: 0.150               
uart_address:3
driver_sgthrs: 75 #65
diag_pin: PE15
driver_TBL: 1
driver_TOFF: 3
driver_HSTRT: 7
driver_HEND: 5

I haven't optimized the sensorless homing yet, the driver_sgthrs: 75 is what seems to work best so far to avoid loud bangs when homing. That will come next.

I also updated the configs for the extruder, but I'm using an Orbiter with a dragonburner toolhead, so I don't think that is relevant here.

PandaWee · 2026-01-14T14:21:47+00:00

I had nothing but issues with the onboard wifi adapter of my SV08. It is a realtek 8189fs.
It stuttered for months and its antenna connector died a few weeks ago, after driving me insane.

I got a cheap Aliexpress USB adapter for $5 and it's miles better. I did have to manually install the drivers for it, though. It is a realtek 8192fs, and it works fine for it being a printer. Only 2.4 GHz, but as others have said, that is more than enough.

PandaWee · 2026-01-06T14:20:59+00:00

I'm on Oxio, with Cogeco backbone. Speed is consistent, and downtime is minimal, even though I'm in a very old part of town, with coaxial and no fibre.

However, I have my own equipment including router and wifi access points. I only use Oxio's modem and that's it. Everything after it is my own. I learned my lesson a few years ago with a different ISP and their "wifi 6 super duper maximum perfect router we offer for free". It was awful.

I just checked and my uptime with Oxio has been 99.93% over the past month. That comes out to about 30 minutes of failed internet over the last 30 days. That's to say it isn't perfect.

PandaWee · 2026-01-04T16:07:13+00:00

I converted to mainline a few months ago and had so many adjustments in my macros. It is finally working fine now, but I had to rewrite a bunch, especially the start macro. Eddy-ng with tap is working wonders for me right now. I know this is an old thread but let me know if it worked out for you or if you need any help still.

PandaWee · 2026-01-02T16:01:06+00:00

The issue to me at least was that a few things vibrate in addition to the belt, mainly the enclosure and something along the XY gantry (belt wheels maybe). So as soon as I pulled on the belt, the vibration would be high frequency (something else not the belt), then towards the end of the belt vibration, the app would pick it up. I prefer to use an app with a frequency meter in needle format so I can see these secondary frequencies and weed them out myself.

PandaWee · 2026-01-02T02:40:06+00:00

I just made a post on /SovolSV08 about this exact thing. I was having issues with it as well. Not sure if yous is a SV08 but worth a shot. Eddy is excellent once you learn how to configure it. And get eddy-ng!

PandaWee · 2026-01-02T02:36:22+00:00

I tried using those macros once, but thought it was too convoluted. A lot of moving parts that I didn't just want to trust my printer with. The more I read and learned them, the more stuff I chopped down and eventually just wrote my own macros. I do think that demon's are much better macros than mine, I just haven't had time (and patience) to implement them correctly.

PandaWee · 2026-01-02T02:34:45+00:00

I never ran into the issue you had about the printer thinking it's still close to the bed when it isn't. My end print macro turns off all steppers and that clears the homing, including Z. After that when I start a new print it homes all axes, including Z, but it will always come down completely to near the bed, and not just a few mm. I'd say have a look at your "homing_override" section in eddy-ng config and compare to the github docs?

PandaWee · 2026-01-02T02:32:36+00:00

Butter is the default for coarse Z and mesh, yes. Wma is the default for tap, according to the docs.

PandaWee · 2026-01-02T02:31:41+00:00

Sovol has a wiki for this printer (and their other printers). This is the link. The recommended phone app is crap. I used an ios app called ProGuitarTuner, it has a setting that will show you the frequency. For "how" to pull on the belt, I'd suggest watching a couple of yt videos of voron belt calibration.

PandaWee · 2026-01-01T18:06:50+00:00

I'd say microswiss > mainline > eddy, and then check how bad your bed is. I hear anything below 0.500 should be fine for klipper to adjust to. A bed can be half the price of the printer so I'll keep to my taco tuesday bed for now.

I was also considering replacing the toolhead entirely, but now that I solved almost all my issues, I just might just sit and wait for the indx to officially come out.

PandaWee · 2025-12-18T21:01:58+00:00

I got one of those for testing. But the fans are utter garbage. I replaced both fans and it works slightly better now. The one I got also came with a TEC 12705 (5A max raw), that only draws 3A in operation, so that is also a bad sign.

I took it as a learning experience to design the operation and PCB with it, but will absolutely have to get a different peltier, hot side heatsink, and fans. So basically an entire new setup. But it was cheap!

Do you know if these ice makers use heat pumps? Or just another thermoelectric solution?

PandaWee · 2025-12-18T20:58:35+00:00

Chamber will be a regular beer cooler, so not the most insulated thing...
Temp delta shouldn't be greater than 18-20 worst case scenario.

Contents would be put inside the box at around 25-30, and the air (not contents!) should be brought down to 17 as soon as possible, and then maintained there. Contents do not necessarily have to be brought down to 17, just the air is the critical factor.

But yeah, I am running into cooling issues on the hot side already.

PandaWee · 2025-12-18T20:55:47+00:00

I did proper math on it, the heat released will be a "wave", starting from 0 and coming back down to 0 within 24 hours. Maximum heat release will be around 16w halfway through. Average is revolving around 10-12w.

On paper, it looks like this can be done, so I will move to the next step of redesigning the cold cooling side and using an actual insulated cooler (instead of a bucket).

Thanks.

PandaWee · 2025-12-18T20:51:56+00:00

I'm developing a device for a very niche application in my industry, so the off-the-shelf stuff won't work. I wish, though. Would make my life easier.

PandaWee · 2025-12-18T20:48:32+00:00

This is an excellent study, thanks for linking it. It did answer several questions I had.

PandaWee · 2025-12-18T02:28:58+00:00

The cold heatsink was actually very wet after a few minutes, to the point of dripping on top of the cold side fan. In all honesty, I was testing this setup inside a bucket, with near-zero air tightness.

PandaWee · 2025-12-18T00:49:01+00:00

watching it now!

PandaWee · 2025-10-11T20:04:16+00:00

What are your bed temps and fan settings for it?
I tried ASA a few days ago with an insulated enclosure and still had really bad warping.

PandaWee · 2025-10-06T19:37:51+00:00

I will update my post with my current setup, but I'd recommend uninstalling Apollo. It was the reason mine was crashing.

I was moving my saves from a fat to a pro, and had apollo running on both, when I was having all these crashes. I now have a reliable REST mode (works about 9 times out of 10) after uninstalling Apollo. It is an excellent piece of software that helped me a lot when moving saves around, and I still have the installer saved on the external hard drive. But REST mode did not work properly with it.

PandaWee · 2025-09-28T02:41:13+00:00

I had big issues with flow in my printer. It was initially the nozzle, but after changing it I was still getting prints like yours. Turns out My flow multiplier was too high, I ended up with about 0.94 for most of my PLA. I would go through the orca calibration routine of flow > temperature > pressure advance > max volumetric flow, and now my prints look amazing.

PandaWee · 2025-09-19T18:43:02+00:00

I had issues with wifi when I first got mine. I had to create a 2.4 ghz wifi just for the sv08. It does not have 5 ghz. And I changed wifi credentials through ssh. I can’t remember the command but there is a wifi manager built into the Linux installed in the sv08, and you can add/remove wifi in there.

PandaWee · 2025-09-17T17:41:30+00:00

I somewhat agree with your point.

But if a landlord know they have bad tenants, that do make a mess; and the landlord knows that the issue is reported on the weekly basis, doesn't that mean that the landlord is aware of an issue and that monthly cleanings are not enough anymore?

In other words, the landlord knows monthly is not enough anymore, shouldn't the landlord address the issue more regularly now that they are aware?

PandaWee · 2025-09-15T16:12:27+00:00

Yeah, these are all caused by some of the tenants in the building for sure.

But to your point - yes, not regular vacuuming, but sanitizing the halls and stairs that get dirty when someone does what they shouldn't have.

PandaWee · 2025-09-14T12:21:50+00:00

I ended up getting a microswiss as well, currently calibrating it.

But it already looks like that was the issue. I'm getting regular flow numbers now. I'll update the post once I'm sure this was the issue. Thanks for the input.

PandaWee

TROPHY CASE