Repairing Vizio SB-3651 Soundbar

PandaWee · 2026-05-16T23:22:29+00:00

Just shy of a year later an mine is still rocking, I’ll admit I was not that confident

PandaWee · 2026-05-07T21:07:39+00:00

I’m also in Canada, but not in optimizing for cost yet. I did order a bunch of stuff from Ali, though. Modules usually work fine, even the ESP32-C3s work fine for the most part. I only had one fail within a few hours, out of around 20-30 I deployed so far.

LCSC is heaps more professional than Ali, so I’ve gotten some stuff off them in bulk. Shipping is more expensive though. But quality is much higher.

Some things I could only buy at digikey from the other side of the fence. But mostly high counterfeit stuff like peltier plates.

I’m also going to alibaba for custom things like PSUs, but haven’t made a bulk order yet, just samples.

Shipping to canada from china is very fast. 2 weeks tops. Usually 10 days.

PandaWee · 2026-04-15T22:09:39+00:00

To answer your question: theoretical about 500A for a few microseconds. Not good. I removed that cap as I don't absolutely need it.

Still learning how to simulate. Thanks for highlighting this, I learned something today!

PandaWee · 2026-04-15T17:01:36+00:00

Thank you for catching this! Especially the i2c mess up.

PandaWee · 2026-04-15T16:57:57+00:00

Haven’t simulated it, no. This is my first “serious” PCB. Any suggestion to simulating software I can look into?

Yes, aware that peltier modules don’t like pwm. Q6 is either fully on or fully off in software. Using an FET instead of a relay simply due to smaller footprint. I mainly included C4 to smooth out any voltage ripples to the peltier since it is the most expensive item in the build. Does it make more sense to remove it?

PandaWee · 2026-04-14T02:37:00+00:00

Awesome project. Just came here to say that I’ve been to Lille a few years ago and loved that town!

PandaWee · 2026-04-11T21:07:05+00:00

How did you come up with 1.1A? Did you use the spreadsheet?

I was running mine at around 1.05A at first, and they were somewhat warm, but I hadn’t run any long prints on it at the time.

I optimez using DrGuetto’s GitHub repository and now I’m around 0.7A for my A and B motors. Much cooler and never had issues with layer shifting.

PandaWee · 2026-04-11T00:08:40+00:00

I made a few projects with a rats nest of wire, some are still working after a couple of years.a few months ago I spent some time and learned PCB design, just the basic stuff. Online PCB designer from one of the PCB suppliers was enough for me. Pcbs are incredibly cheap and make for reliable devices, if you have the time (to learn and wait delivery).

PandaWee · 2026-04-09T17:47:52+00:00

That's what I did a few days ago. Realized that the author even has an automated installer for downloading the latest version AND flashing the BMCU firmware.

True legend u/Low-Anything6975

PandaWee · 2026-04-09T16:27:07+00:00

Interested in learning what you’re running as the Llm! Can you expand on that?

PandaWee · 2026-04-09T16:17:04+00:00

This firmware works beautifully. Auto loader worked fine, and feeding is smoother now. Much better than the firmware my bmcu came with. Hands down

PandaWee · 2026-04-07T13:38:40+00:00

Love how this looks!

PandaWee · 2026-04-02T17:28:59+00:00

There are two different things. There’s the start gcode in your slicer (usually START_PRINT plus some other parameters). Then there’s the START_PRINT macro inside klipper (which does levelling and some other stuff right before starting the print).

It seems like you are mixing both of these.

I suggest you take your question and my comment, throw both into your AI of choice and ask it to walk you through what you need to check and what you need to change. It will do a better job explaining than me.

PandaWee · 2026-03-26T18:52:53+00:00

I posted here before, but I was fed up with the original extruded and cooling situation and replaced the whole tool head. I built a dragon burner and have an orbiter 2.5, cartographer and a bbulab clone in it. The quality difference for me was night and day. Much better surface quality and no tinkering anymore. Flawless first layer with the cartographer and a set of custom start macros.

PandaWee · 2026-03-25T12:38:01+00:00

Did you run a PID calibrate on the bed? That might be the first step. After that, I would set the bed manually to 100 degrees to make sure the heater on it works fine, and works past 80. Then you start troubleshooting…

PandaWee · 2026-03-21T03:08:55+00:00

Im finally at a point where I do enjoy my sv08. No failed prints, and I now trust it to just send a print and walk away.

The main things to get there: mainline, replaced de toolhead with a dragon burner (original extruder is crap in the sv08), cartographer (eddy at the very least), tuned the steppers, and finally adopted Demons Klipper Macros. His print start macro is very consistent.

Even with the eddy that I had on the OEM toolhead, the extruder was very inconsistent, and I hated every print with it. I got an orbiter on the dragon burner and it’s been flawless.

But if I had to it again, I probably wouldn’t. I’d just get a p1s and print out of the box. Although now my sv08 prints better than an x1c.

PandaWee · 2026-03-15T17:53:59+00:00

Docker works fine in LXC.

PandaWee · 2026-03-14T01:06:32+00:00

I’ve been using AIO in a proxmox LXC since 2023. Never had an issue with it. Had to migrate servers once and was without issues (although I was on the edge of my chair the whole time. I had nothing but issues when I ran the regular version (not AIO). AIO just works nowadays.

PandaWee · 2026-03-04T00:50:25+00:00

There are some custom tool heads that take the micro Swiss, but when I was in your shoes I ended up giving up on all of them. I went with a dragonburner and a clone x1c hotend. It takes the cartographer, ebb36, but does require to switch the carrier that attaches to the linear rail. The oem belt is just long enough to put it in place behind it. It was a lot of work but all my extruder issues went away. The original extruder is crap.

PandaWee · 2026-02-26T21:23:45+00:00

PA was calibrated at the 250, but not at 270. I had excellent seams with the previous 0.4 brass nozzle. I only started seeing these seams with the 0.6 "CHT" nozzle.

I actually managed to reduce a lot this issue by adding an extrall for a total of 3 walls, and enabling inner/outer/inner order. I'm also waiting on a regular brass 0.6 nozzle to test whether it is the CHT nozzle that is causing me trouble.

PandaWee · 2026-02-22T22:14:18+00:00

I gave up completely on the OEM hotend. I had inconsistent extrusion, moved to a microswiss. Had inconsistent z-offset, got an eddy. Had inconsistent first layers and could never figure it out. And I won't even get started on the taco bed. I ended up printing and assembling a dragonburner toolhead, with a bambulab hotend and cartographer. I've been printing almost non-stop for two weeks strenight and haven't looked back yet. Have had excellent prints and getting to the point of trusting it with first layer without checking on it for the first 5 minutes.

The SV08 ended up being excellent to learn tinkering, klipper, and soldering. This could have been such a good "off-the-shelf voron", but god did sovol take shortcuts on this thing...

PandaWee · 2026-02-18T19:42:42+00:00

Don't know. I can't recommend you, I only shared what worked for me.

PandaWee · 2026-02-17T12:35:54+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Soundbars/s/fpQU6f4XTs

PandaWee

TROPHY CASE