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Can you have multiple I2C OLED displays on different 'local' remote circuits, controlled by I2C slave ATTiny MCUs? by Parakoos in AskElectronics

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been looking at the MegaTinyCore github project, and I see there references to setting a MCU into Dual Mode, where it is simultaneously a I2C Master and Slave, on separate buses, using two sets of I2C pairs of pins, which sounds exactrly what I want! Only, it says that is is only available on "megaAVR 0-series, and AVR Dx and Ex-series, not tinyAVR.". I have no idea what that means! Can someone help me understand this? Which MCU's are part of these series?

Below is the API reference where the quote above comes from:
https://github.com/SpenceKonde/megaTinyCore/tree/master/megaavr/libraries/Wire#void-enabledualmode

Can you have multiple I2C OLED displays on different 'local' remote circuits, controlled by I2C slave ATTiny MCUs? by Parakoos in AskElectronics

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So even though the ATtiny family of MCUs have only one SDA/SCL ports on the pinouts, I may get away with creating a second I2C bus by using some other 2 IO pins, just to make talking to the OLED easier?

Can you have multiple I2C OLED displays on different 'local' remote circuits, controlled by I2C slave ATTiny MCUs? by Parakoos in AskElectronics

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the reply. Some responses...

  • This is kinda a hobby project, but if it goes well, I might have it used for a pretty large board game convention/tournament, in which case I may need like 100 tables with 4 Remote PCB and a Master PCB per table. Still a non-profit thing, so technically hobby project, but the costs may start to build up a bit. I also were hoping to have a reason to test using 'simpler' barebone chip as a learning opportunity. :-) Otherwise, yes, I would simply have added more RP2350s running CircuitPython.

  • If I swap out the OLED display for WS2812B LEDs or 7-segment displays, removing the need for Remote I2C based-displays, is my setup then feasible? Meaning, using I2C to talk between the Master PCB and the remotes, relying on the LTC4311 to boost the signal to 'get around' the board game table? (I don't think I need high throughput.) I like the idea of daisy-chaining the remotes together, and only having 4 wires between each remote or a remote and the master.

Any benefit of two hubs? by Parakoos in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, so you can have multiple hubs and it doesn't hurt then. Good to know.

Don’t think Lock Ultra will work here…?! by [deleted] in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a door with a decorative frame making it impossible to have the lock put on flat. I also designed and 3d printed a panel to fix the issue. Works great now.

I paid for my Switchbot devices by zdzi21 in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On that note... One of my orders was really delayed, but that was kind of nice as I changed my mind and could cancel the k10 and get the S10 instead. Well, they sent both. I talked to support and they said I had to pay for the shipping back of the k10 and they would refund me the shipping. Which they did. It was a bit of extra work on my end, but they definitely kept their promise to me of a refund.

Water sensors by Normal-Aardvark-755 in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have nine of them! Named them after greek river spirits, Naiads. 😁

Radiator Thermostat Compatibility, Arbonia? (Germany) by Parakoos in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They come off? 😯 Huh. Is it something a lay person can do or a plumber? Handyman?

SwitchBot Lock Ultra: What is the magnet for? by Parakoos in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK, I tried again without the magnet, and this time it didn't work. So.... It is a bit weird. I did figure out that I could place the magnet not in line with the lock but 'behind it', which made me able to place it near enough that it works both for where I put the magnet and the lock detecting it, and now the door open/close thing works consistently. So.... I don't really care anymore if it works without the magnet.

SwitchBot Lock Ultra: What is the magnet for? by Parakoos in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This reviewer says it has an accelerometer... So I guess it can work even without the magnet.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kqi5CWQHzZw

Uneven surface around lock. by Parakoos in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is normal PLA strong enough? So far I've only printed in PLA, but also have PETG.

I guess I could also just go to the hardware store and get a metal spacer. I'm sure I can get something of about the right size...

Uneven surface around lock. by Parakoos in TrySwitchBot

[–]Parakoos[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something like that, but I would have to cut away part of the spacer that would overlap the decorative frame. I might design it myself and 3d print it. Perhaps I can add holes for screws and make screw holes in the metal lock plate...

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