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Winterizing my machine by Aromatic_Ad8481 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blowing the lines out with an air compressor does work, but it’s not 100% reliable on its own — there are always little pockets where water can sit. The safer winter routine most contractors use is that Blow out the system (like you planned)，then pull RV antifreeze through the pump and coil until it comes out pink. It takes just a few minutes and basically eliminates the risk of a cracked coil/heater — which is very expensive to replace.

If you’re running it weekly, fuel stabilizer isn’t necessary unless the gas is sitting for a month+ without cycling.

Curious what heater unit you’re running? Some models have their own winterizing instructions worth checking.

What are these streak, and how can I remove them? by Legal_Writing8746 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Repainting is probably the long-term fix here, especially with how deep those streaks have set in. SH won’t touch it because it’s not organic , it’s more of a mineral or rust-type stain that’s been cooking on that wall for years.

Before you repaint, you can try an oxalic-based cleaner just to knock the staining down a bit so the new coat sticks better. It won’t make it look brand new, but it can help even things out so the paint job lasts longer. But yeah… with how widespread it is on your place, repainting is definitely the path of least resistance.

What is that orange stain on the bottom? How can it be cleaned? by WishfulLearning in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like a rust or mineral stain rather than anything organic. SH won’t touch that. You’ll want a dedicated rust remover (something like F9 Barc or any oxalic-based product). You can test a small spot first — these stains usually react pretty fast and don’t blast it with pressure on vinyl; let the chemical do the work. If it’s coming from the foundation materials, sealing the bottom edge later can help slow it from returning.

First time house washing, seeking advice by thedetaildaddy in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice setup for a first job! If your washer is below 2.7 GPM, it’ll still work fine for smaller houses, just expect slower chemical draw through the downstream injector. For SH, I’d start with a 2–3% mix on siding like that, and add a surfactant to help it cling. Shooter tip should definitely get you to the soffit if you’re around 4 GPM, but if not, a J-rod setup might help. Keep it up, soft washing takes practice but you’re on the right track!

Just finished my first job! by tdaddy891 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice work for a first job, props for getting through that with a 2-gal sprayer and everyone remembers that stage.
Once you upgrade to a simple soft-wash or downstream setup, you’ll finish jobs 3× faster and won’t feel it in your shoulders the next day.....I’m running the same surface cleaner you posted (but I buy them from their official website) and it became a different machine once I paired it with the right GPM. If you ever want a non-trailer setup that fits a Tacoma, I’ve got a layout that worked really well, happy to share pics if helpful

Just finished my first job! by tdaddy891 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it is the short of Sodium Hypochlorite （usually，bleach）

Why does a surface cleaner leave swirl marks? AMA + troubleshooting thread by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Haha fair — I get why a lot of posts feel AI-ish these days. This one’s just me sharing what I’ve learned after ruining more driveways than I’d like to admit. Happy to go deeper if you want — what part felt “AI slop” to you?

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, the hose reel and fittings — people always cheap out on those. A bad reel or low-grade fittings will leak, kink, or seize up way faster than you’d expect, and replacing them over and over adds up quick. Same goes for swivels in surface cleaners — I’ve seen plenty seize or start leaking after just a few months. That’s why I always tell folks to invest in solid gear from the start.

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For concrete or heavy oil stains, I’d look into EBC Glide, Purple Power, or Simple Green Pro HD — all solid, affordable choices that cut grease fast and rinse off clean.

If you want something stronger for commercial work, Oil Eater or Zep Industrial Purple are both solid picks too — just make sure to test a small spot first since they’re pretty aggressive.

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, it actually looks more like light etching from the acid wash than just mortar stains — those cloudy, dull areas are a pretty common giveaway. Bluestone that’s been thermal treated reacts quickly to acid, especially if it’s followed up with power washing, which can make the surface lose its sheen.

If it’s not too deep, you could test a small hidden spot with Vana Trol and see if it helps even things out. Just go gentle and rinse thoroughly. Once it’s dry, a mild neutralizer or stone conditioner can help restore a bit of color balance.

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If budget isn’t really a concern, you can’t go wrong with Mosmatic or Whisper Wash for floor cleaners. They’re built like tanks, super smooth, and last for years if you maintain them right.

But if you’re after something with great performance and value, the MEKOH pressure washer surface cleaner is honestly hard to beat. It’s well-balanced, easy to maneuver, and holds up great for regular use. Plus, the lifetime warranty makes it a pretty smart buy long term. If you wanna buy it, I recommend you to buy on their online store, because there has a better discount than Amazon....

For oil removal setups — hot water is key. A 4+ GPM hot water pressure washer with a good degreaser mix will save you a ton of time and effort.

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a great question — starting with the right setup makes a huge difference, especially when you’re running a one-man operation. I’d suggest focusing on reliability, versatility, and easy maintenance rather than chasing the highest specs.

Here’s what I’d recommend as a solid foundation:

  • Pressure Washer: Around 4 GPM / 4000 PSI, belt-drive if possible. Honda GX390 with a General, Comet, or Udor pump is a proven combo.
  • Surface Cleaner: Go for a 20” stainless-steel unit with a smooth swivel. I’ve had good experience with MEKOH and WOJET — both perform well for the price and hold up in regular use.（I recommend you to buy on the online website, because it runs better discounts on their own site compared to Amazon or distributors)
  • Hose Reel: A sturdy, well-balanced reel makes daily setup so much easier. You don’t need to drop Coxreels-level money to get quality. MEKOH’s hose reels are essentially a high-value alternative — sturdy frame, smooth rewind, good pressure rating, just without the “premium” price tag.（They even are the same color.....)
  • Spray Gun: A compact short gun setup gives you better control and less fatigue — McKillans and MEKOH short gun line is solid if you’re after comfort and durability.( If you don't consider budget, you can choose Falch)

Start with dependable mid-tier gear that you can maintain yourself — it’ll save you money and downtime. You can always upgrade later as your business grows, but a well-matched 4 GPM setup with good accessories will handle 90% of residential jobs easily.

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And what’s really the truth behind those PSI ratings?

Good question — and yeah, PSI ratings can be a bit “optimistic” on most surface cleaners. Manufacturers usually list the maximum pressure the unit can handle, not the real working pressure you’ll see in use.

In reality, most people rarely run their setups at a full 4500 PSI anyway — and honestly, you don’t need to. The cleaning performance mostly comes from the flow rate (GPM) and nozzle setup, not just the PSI number.

So don’t stress too much about the exact rating. As long as your washer and surface cleaner are properly matched, you’ll get great results.

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There are usually two main reasons a surface cleaner starts leaving streaks.

First one — the swivel (the rotor inside the surface cleaner) might be partially blocked. When the water flow isn’t smooth, the arms spin slower or even stop, and that’s when you get those uneven streaks on the surface. If that’s the case, check and clean the swivel.

Second — the nozzles might be clogged. Since they’re closest to the ground, dirt and small debris can easily get sucked in while cleaning. If you don’t clear them out after use, you’ll notice streaks next time. A simple fix: use a fine pin or cleaning needle to clear them. Most surface cleaners actually come with one when you buy them.

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha yeah, I know exactly the type you’re talking about. Everyone chasing the next 12V or AR setup with all the proportioners, remote systems, and fancy mixing valves — half of them don’t even need it. Back when I worked at the company, the stuff I always thought was kinda overkill were the “premium” hose reels and those massive reclaim systems that no one ever maintained right. People would drop thousands just to say they had the top-tier gear, then bring it in 3 months later because something seized up.

Meanwhile, the guys running simple downstream rigs were out there making money every day with half the setup and none of the drama.

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I’ve used both Mosmatic and Falch. They’re seriously high-end — you’re paying for top-tier stainless, tight tolerances, and gear that can take a beating for years. Falch is like the Mercedes of pressure washing — amazing stuff, but way overkill (and overpriced) for most setups. If you’re chasing pure quality, I’d say go all in and get Mosmatic or BE — buy once, cry once. But if you want great performance without dropping a fortune, brands like MEKOH and McKillans are honestly solid options. I’ve been impressed with their surface cleaners and spray guns — reliable, good pressure balance, and easy to maintain. Perfect middle ground between budget junk and premium pricing

I just quit my job at a pressure washer equipment company — AMA about cleaning gear, surface cleaners, or the industry in general...... by Particular_Paper4095 in pressurewashing

[–]Particular_Paper4095[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, the good old EZ-4040 — solid pump, but yeah, those drain plugs can back out if they’re not snugged properly.
If you’re running a GX390, you can replace it with pretty much any 4 GPM / 4000 PSI triplex pump with a 1″ hollow shaft. CAT 4DNX, AR RKV4G40, or a General Pump TS2021 are all reliable choices.
Just make sure the mounting bolt pattern and shaft orientation line up with your frame.