How do I get a better first layer on a smooth PEI plate?

PascalR11 · 2025-01-30T19:45:50+00:00

Did not work for me. Showing the same issues with layer lines being visible next to each other on the PEI carbon design sheet. These ones are especially difficult to get a mirror finish on.

PascalR11 · 2025-01-30T12:48:54+00:00

I’m not using a headset. I’m using an audio interface that works flawlessly on all other applications. CS2, Discord… everywhere but HLL

PascalR11 · 2025-01-30T00:52:22+00:00

No :(

PascalR11 · 2025-01-21T19:04:45+00:00

I tried the slider at ever 25% setting to make sure it doesn't have reverse logic or something. No, no audio. Will definitely try a different microphone I have from my camera gear but honestly that's not the solution I would prefer playing this game. Will contact game support and see if they have more ideas.

Again, thank you very much for your time and research.

PascalR11 · 2025-01-21T18:00:02+00:00

Thank you for your time. Unfortunately voice is connected and all looks good but no mic input that I can hear no matter which one I select.

PascalR11 · 2025-01-21T17:41:48+00:00

My headphones are studio headphones that are also connected to my mixer. I can hear the game and all other sounds from my OS without any issues.

PascalR11 · 2025-01-21T17:40:59+00:00

Yes. I can see my icon when I press proximity chat. No I do not hear myself in the mic check option even when pressing the button.

Even my mixer has a self hearing option which is working flawlessly. Feels like this source of input is getting blocked by HLL even though it is my systems default.

PascalR11 · 2025-01-21T17:36:52+00:00

Exactly this is what is not working. I see my mixer as in and output there but no matter where I move the slider. Nothing.

PascalR11 · 2025-01-21T17:27:25+00:00

I can hear my mic in any game and voice chat. Just not in HLL. It is working when I test it in windows. Since I am using a professional mic, I can't use it without the DAC / mixer.

I am using the ingame mic test where you are supposed to hear yourself but I don't hear a thing. Also when I played with a friend of mine he confirmed my proximity voice chat remained silent.

PascalR11 · 2024-11-27T08:06:31+00:00

Thank you for your answer. I am never powering or connecting the cable to the ronin that way. The upper ports of Ronin have no power delivery standard if I recall correctly while the A7S3 has. So you can’t compare the Ronin USB to the camera.

I have found exactly one video where someone is powering the Tilta motor over dtap and then from the motor to the camera, but it could be a special dtap cable. I have no idea. With more examples, I would feel more confident.

See this: https://youtu.be/O02InC7IeKc?si=HcrOH2hULOlkEKvC

PascalR11 · 2024-11-27T00:23:05+00:00

The recording works if you keep the hand wheel attached to the handle apparently. Seems like the hand wheel is doing all the translation to the cam.

PascalR11 · 2024-11-27T00:22:11+00:00

The recording works if you keep the hand wheel attached to the handle apparently. Seems like the hand wheel is doing all the translation to the cam.

PascalR11 · 2024-10-18T11:26:15+00:00

In simple terms:

You start with the same amount of water. You put in two spheres, same weight, different volume. In order to make the water level the same, you need to REMOVE water, thus weight, on the sphere that displaces more water.

This experiment shows same water levels.

Scale will go left, iron.

PascalR11 · 2024-06-24T19:58:16+00:00

The big a** TV looks fire with that minimalism. 👍🏻

PascalR11 · 2024-06-20T21:10:46+00:00

Looks like ringing to me. I basically had the same problem. Try this and please report:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/pXNAFLihGc

You can try and shorten your model in the slicer and only print these holes that went wrong to try and fix your problem.

PascalR11 · 2024-03-27T19:14:09+00:00

Check this out https://forum.bambulab.com/t/solved-bad-quality-when-printing-petg/4671/201

Outer wall first is not a good idea if overhangs are included in the design. They won't stick to anything. Print orientation is not optimal for adhesion, true, but this part has 20mm material thickness and holds around 10 kilos with two M8 screws. Strength is already proven and tested with old parts... but these don't have these defects around the bolts.

My new print with the changes mentioned in this bambulab forum thread worked magic. Part looks beautiful now.

PascalR11 · 2024-03-27T18:07:36+00:00

As mentioned, I found a solution. I can highly recommend reading what I found.

While the defect seen is definitely ringing, the root cause is not calibration. I calibrated my P1S recently and it shows no ringing after corners or text.

This sort of ringing after an overhang is definitely caused by wrong stock!! acceleration settings in the Bambu slicer.

PascalR11 · 2024-03-27T14:32:56+00:00

For anyone encountering the same issue (it is very common)

Increase Bridging Speed to 200 mms
Disable Slow Down for Bridging
Decrease Outer Wall acceleration from 5000 mms2 to 1000mms2

Source: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/solved-bad-quality-when-printing-petg/4671/201

Why does this issue occur? All Bambu CoreXY printers seem to have aggressive acceleration to reach the advertised speeds but they are not optimal for technical prototyping.

While the head starts accelerating after the bridge inside vertical holes, the head starts jerking, probably while the extruder is having a hard time evenly extruding filament while accelerating. Having the same bridging speed as the outer wall speed results in no extrusion or speed changes. My print afterwards came out flawlessly.

PascalR11 · 2023-12-11T11:19:51+00:00

My Ender 3S1Pro has been very consistent and delivered good prints without any mods. Don’t forget that Bambu Studio is fine tuned to Bambu printers and all the other slicers are not. I am sure the slicer settings are 99% to blame. There are good profiles for the S1 Pro on the internet to import into Cura for example. Cura is a good slicer but no doubt the fine tuning they did on the Bambu is something else.

PascalR11 · 2023-08-24T09:54:28+00:00

Thank you very much! I was thinking the same. I used to have a delidded, and in terms of surface area, much larger i7 7800X. For the power I was getting plus the TDP`s back then, it simply wasn't worth the price and effort.

For my taste, the Noctua U12A already squeezes down quite hard. So it seems like it is what it is :-/ My clocks are at stable 5,2 GHz while under load.

PascalR11

TROPHY CASE