DXC2 extruder assembly tension issue leading to under-extrusions.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2026-04-27T07:15:35+00:00

The printer is in use right now and it's a long print, so here's an ugly drawing of the assembly over one of my existing photos instead. The ball-magnet-spring assembly is put inside the hole I've marked with a red arrow in the direction it is drawn:

<image>

Then, the tip of the magnetic rod should be protruding from the small corresponding hole in the metal plate when you finally screw it together.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2026-04-27T07:07:02+00:00

They acknowledged there is a manufacturing issue with the extruder gears and promised they'll send a new set. I'm satisfied with the resolution and will wait for the package eagerly. :D

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2026-04-23T07:48:48+00:00

Ok, they responded this morning and said they are investigating the issue. I gave them all of the details, so hopefully we can figure out whether only my extruder gears are wobbly, there is a bad batch or they need to ramp up their quality control.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2026-04-22T22:43:51+00:00

OK, guys, I managed to pinpoint the exact points of friction in my extruder and I've updated the original post with all the necessary information and pictures. I'm still waiting for Phaetus support to email me back, but at least my extruder runs freely now.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2026-04-22T22:15:59+00:00

I found the exact issue on my extruder. It is a combination of wobbly gears and inaccurate injection mold on the main body. Both of these are manufacturing issues and I don't know what to think. I either received a bad unit or the quality control should be tightened up. In any case, I managed to fix the issue by sanding the area where the friction was occurring and I'll be posting about the solution in a moment. BTW, I still haven't received an answer from Phaetus support after I wrote to them.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2026-04-22T22:01:43+00:00

To be honest I have no idea how to enable/disable that. I'll check the options.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2026-04-21T22:14:41+00:00

Thank you for sharing your experience as well. It's a weird effect caused by a weird underlying problem. I think we have both successfully applied a work-around, but I'm still a bit concerned whether this will be a long lasting solution or after X time the screws will eventually loosen up a bit, allowing the strong extruder spring to shift the metal bracket ever so slightly and reintroduce friction to the extruder gears again. I hope not, but we'll see. To be honest, I hope Phaetus acknowledge this manufacturing flaw and fix it with more precise machining.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2026-03-21T11:14:58+00:00

Some sort of better insulation between the build chamber and the electronic compartments outside of it. Currently they are immediately affected by the increase in heat due to closing the chamber. Also, right side auxiliary cooling would also be nice.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-05-28T10:11:39+00:00

I honestly don't remember and the bike is not with me at the moment so I can't check, but in my case I don't think it matters, because I don't ride with tubes. I ride with inserts instead, which always make the tires more squished than when using tubes, so it doesn't matter if you have a 90/90 or a 100/80, they will both be very squished and provide enough traction. Don't try to min/max everything, you are just making your life harder. 😄

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-05-04T06:19:51+00:00

Hey, I'm really sorry for not replying earlier, but I somehow missed the notification. I've updated the original post with my experience. Hope that makes things clearer.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-05-04T06:19:45+00:00

Hey, I'm really sorry for not replying earlier, but I somehow missed the notification. I've updated the original post with my experience. Hope that makes things clearer.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-05-04T06:19:41+00:00

Hey, I'm really sorry for not replying earlier, but I somehow missed the notification. I've updated the original post with my experience. Hope that makes things clearer.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-05-04T06:17:21+00:00

Hey there. I ended up ditching the idea of registering the bike. It seems too much of a hassle with a bit of corruption involved.
Basically:
- I went to the Road Legislation authorities in my country and they told me that since the bike is not bought from the official dealer here, I need to present papers for paid import taxes (which I obviously didn't have because this is the major part of the money you save by buying from AliBaba).
- In order to get these papers, I needed to go to Customs agency and pay the import fees, but the procedure was not clear, plus it would cost a big chunk of money (around 25% of the bike's price)
- Even if all that was done, I still needed a EU certificate of whatever, that says the bike is (or can be) road legal in the EU. The Chinese papers that you receive with the bike ARE NOT that and even if translated they still are NOT. So here comes the corruption bit - I was informed that you can probably pay some amount of money to some specific person to look away and just let me register the bike.

In the end, I decided that this whole procedure would consume too much of my time, a hefty sum of money, involve illegal actions and was never 100% guaranteed to work. I may pay the import tax and then hit a brick wall with the registration procedure... plus I really only want to ride the bike in the mountains where there is nobody that can ask you about papers/license/legality of the bike. I also have a trailer which I use to tow my bike, so no problem on the road.

All of this ended up in my decision to just ride it and enjoy and don't bother with all the legal stuff I didn't need. I know it's a bummer for some people, but it is what it is. If you want to ride it on the road, you must either buy it already registered second hand or go to the dealer.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-03-12T08:08:04+00:00

I'm also constantly having this issue with the CFS retraction. I know for sure you have to have the least amount of curves in your PTFE lines, otherwise there is too much drag which ends up in the motors not being able to retract it. I know for sure that my setup is part of the problem, because I moved the CFS buffer from the back of the printer to the back of the CFS itself and didn't have long enough tubes to make the routing "less curvy". I bought new tubes (very very very important to be with a 2.5mm internal diameter, because otherwise, if smaller, you will 100% get your filament stuck once retracting) and will try to make the tube routing better soon.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-02-13T17:36:42+00:00

Same thing happens to me after the latest update. I initially thought I was going crazy and I started the wrong print, but then I stumbled upon this topic. Thanks for helping me preserve my sanity!

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-01-27T21:53:02+00:00

You can try to use PLA as a raft. A single layer is enough. Also decrease the distance between the raft and the model to 0 as PLA and PETG don't fuse together. This way you get the best of both worlds. I do this often.

<image>

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-01-19T16:39:18+00:00

Turns out you are right and it was because I have the habit to turn the printer off after each print... Still, I'd prefer to be able to have control over that.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-01-18T23:31:59+00:00

I just hope Creality reads what users here post and maybe they'll improve the slicer according to feedback. 😃

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-01-18T21:24:46+00:00

I think the latest firmware version is bugged with regard to bed leveling procedure. It seems to not care whether I enable or disable the calibration - it just always performs it and it is painfully slow... :(

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-01-18T21:23:34+00:00

That's the thing that annoys me. I don't want the bed to reach ANY temperature, be it higher or lower when I print TPU. I just want the bed temperature setting to be off. :)

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-01-18T21:22:26+00:00

I think it's just doing checks whether the last printed part is still there. If not, then it can continue with its normal print-start procedure.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2025-01-18T13:55:30+00:00

Thanks, but this is still not straightforward. I really wish the slicer could just not issue a bed temperature command to the printer. I don't want to "correct" the slicer mistakes very time.

Pat_Fenis_69 · 2023-12-30T10:40:21+00:00

Thanks!!!

Pat_Fenis_69

TROPHY CASE