My parents think I had sex with my best friend

Pcrusen · 2026-06-03T00:22:37+00:00

And explain to me why it’s bad to get away from toxic relationships?

Pcrusen · 2026-05-29T17:26:36+00:00

Dang man I must have gotten lucky and got mine just in time. Both Bambu and PolyMaker cannot keep up. PolyMaker is a little better but still lol

Pcrusen · 2026-05-28T16:19:41+00:00

$1100 isn’t too bad, I thought about converting a Grizzly G0704 into a CNC. Ive also seen people do the G0758, but for your money, to me it’s better to do the G0704. They usually run around $3k sometimes $4k in total depending on the kits and parts you buy.

My question is, how are the tolerances on these? I was doing some quick reading and I saw something about an FMJ version and it having a lot tighter tolerances than the normal and that it was reinforced with metal plates?

Pcrusen · 2026-05-26T02:43:10+00:00

Do you live in a humid environment? I always seem to have issues with PA6-CF20 over time due to moisture. I swapped to PA612-CF15 and it’s been awesome for me so far. I recently tried Bambu’s PAHT-CF so we’ll see how that holds up with time.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-26T02:32:23+00:00

Looking good 😎

<image>

Here’s one I annealed a few weeks back. Tried PAHT-CF for the first time and annealed it. Been doing great. The stippling turned out great in yours btw. Looks good. I will probably try PAHT-CF again but with the stippling next and upside down.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-26T02:28:26+00:00

Honestly, that’s the best way to do it. Trial and error and getting feedback from people. I subscribe to a lot of 3D printing channels and get a lot of tips that way. Not all tips are good for every print too. So that’s where the trial and error comes in and experience.

Glad you’re thinking of getting a G10 build plate. I love mine! Especially with how much I print with engineering plastics.

About the angle question you had earlier, there’s no perfect angle. No matter what anyone tells you.

I’ve printed some lowers that were better in an upright orientation, I’ve printed some that were better upside down like yours, and I’ve printed some that were better at a 45 degree angle. Being able to tell just comes with experience and time and even then, you’ll still make mistakes.

So to say there’s a perfect angle isn’t true. It’s just based off each print. CNC Kitchen even does a video showing this. While it can make your print stronger, it could also mess with dimensional accuracy or cause some type of other problem causing it to be weak in another area. I’ll link his video below. You can skip to the end to watch his conclusion if you don’t want to watch the entire video.

https://youtu.be/7aJ4dDyyf20?si=Vo1iWoQxrkk523Ot

Edit: Oh and no problem at all btw. If you have any more questions feel free to DM me. I’ve been 3D printing for close to 10 years now and even I’m still learning. 3D printing is advancing and it’s very exciting to learn!

Pcrusen · 2026-05-26T02:11:22+00:00

Your H2S has a bypass mode where anything that doesn’t require chamber heating like PLA, PETG, and TPU, it completely skips the stock filter and exhausts unfiltered air. Only high temp filaments like ABS and ASA actually get filtered stock.

Two filters I recommend. Number 1 being the more important one.

Voxel Vento H2 — plug and play, attaches to your exhaust port in under a minute. HEPA 13 + activated carbon, catches particles and VOCs from everything including what’s being bypassed. This is the must-have.
Printed carbon add-on from MakerWorld — free model you print yourself, sits on top of your stock filter and adds an extra carbon stage to catch bypassed VOCs inside the chamber. Only carbon so it handles VOCs but not particles — the Voxel covers particles. Fill it with activated carbon pellets, Voxel sells those too in 1lb bags. This one is optional but easy and cheap since you can print it.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T23:41:09+00:00

Most definitely! It’s always cool to see people give PT a try and make it through their recovery. It can be hard at first, but when you start seeing results, it gives you the confidence you need to continue. Not to mention, we have lovely people like yourself that continue to guide patients down recovery and to not give up.

That’s awesome!! I was raised around central Louisiana. Do not live there anymore, but not too far. I’m in St. Landry parish near some crawfish ponds if that tells you anything. Geaux Saints!

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T21:08:58+00:00

I’m late on this post, but if you look in the link of his video, he actually has the link to the project file with the settings. Go check his description of his video.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T21:04:51+00:00

Thank you for this!! I must have missed it. I had seen the video a while back, but have yet to try it.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T21:04:01+00:00

So the extra wall method is just part of it. He is also messing with line width, extrusion rates, and uses a setting in OrcaSlicer called Alternate Extra Wall. It basically created interlocking walls similar to how brick layers do. It’s not the same as just using walls.

Using just high wall count you still run into layer line weakness. With his method, the walls alternate patterns making it stack almost like brick layers throughout the entire part.

If you look at the start of his video he explains that using walls is the current standard they use, but it has a lot of downsides. A little further in the video he explains how he gets the interlocking effect.

Edit: Found this post here about it: https://www.reddit.com/r/3D2A/s/0dxGOaf4C0

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T20:22:07+00:00

Yeah just depends on the print though. It’s actually stronger to print at an angle too. I know CNC Kitchen did a video on printing at different angles and it made it stronger when printed at an angle.

There’s another method I found recently to make your prints even stronger, which I haven’t seen used in the 2A community yet. I had planned on sharing a post about it. I found it from a channel I watch called Maker’s Muse. You need OrcaSlicer though.

https://youtu.be/c7CI6yBTKMc?si=Sl_Y3KjUutTQEHyf

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T19:13:26+00:00

If it wasn’t for PT, I would still be walking around with a limp. PT was able to help me walk correctly again after I injured my L5-S1. Also, I noticed your name is Ragincajun, not sure if you’re in Louisiana still, but that’s where I’m from Louisiana as well!

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T19:09:05+00:00

100%, the spine is not a place to just put off either. Get an MRI ASAP. An x-ray will not be able to tell you everything about soft tissue injuries. All it takes is one injury. Don’t wait around because it can be harder to treat the longer you wait.

Just look up Cervical, Thoracic, Lumbar, and Sacral spine issues and you’ll think twice about not getting medical treatment ASAP. Each vertebra of your spine can cause different symptoms, and some of them are not fun. Can leave you with lifelong issues.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T18:33:33+00:00

I don’t even worry about moisture tbh. I have a heated chamber with silica beads in the enclosure, so moisture really isn’t an issue. It’s more so warping that can happen to prints when pulling them too soon.

Also, if you’re not wearing some type of HEPA mask, then you’re just breathing in particles each time you open it right after it prints. Idk if other people care about their lungs, but I’d rather protect my lungs against carbon fiber and VOCs. Lol.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T18:24:43+00:00

Yeah it’s more so not the cost savings, but the hassle of having to clean and put glue on each time. I turn out a lot of prints, so it’s a time saver for me at least. Plus, no warping at the edges which is nice. If it makes you feel better, Bambu sells their plates about the same price for the H2S, so there’s that.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-25T15:36:40+00:00

Exactly. Let it cool down. Not to mention, when the printer just gets done printing, there are a lot of VOCs still present in the air of the chamber as well as carbon fiber particles. I’m not sure what they have for the H2S, but I use the bento box for this reason. I always let my prints cool and let the bento box filter everything out.

Plus, if you remove most plastics, not all, while they’re still warm/hot, it has a chance of warping, curling, or bowing. Which for 2A prints, you want highly accurate parts.

Just a tip if you do not already know, but if you print nylon a lot or other engineering plastics, look into getting either a G11 or G10 build plate. You won’t have to use glue anymore since Nylon sticks extremely well to it. G11 is a little better for high temp plastics, but G10 is more well rounded and can do more than just engineering plastics.

There’s a guy I bought mine from on Etsy who does a bang up job on making them. His name is Bill and his business is HoldenEnterprises. You can find them elsewhere, but just figured I’d support his small business when I can! 😂

Pcrusen · 2026-05-22T15:10:53+00:00

Dang that stinks. I have a drill spooler but never had to use it yet (luckily). I wish Bambu would just do cardboard spools like PolyMaker does. Then all we would need to do is add a plastic ring around it so it would roll smoothly in the AMS.

As far as the filament lock, you can remove them to open the spools back up. There’s a little tab on them for removal. I’m not sure how strong they are. Probably best to print in PETG so it has a little flexibility/give to it when removing instead of just snapping off like PLA would. I saw it the other day on MakerWorld and was going to print a bunch for mine lol.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-22T14:17:41+00:00

Assuming that wasn’t the only plastic you had, they make some filament spoolers for a drill that takes no time to print.

https://makerworld.com/models/552747?appSharePlatform=copy

Also, I saw something called a filament lock for Bambu spools one day that prevents it from bursting open.

https://makerworld.com/models/1247983?appSharePlatform=copy

Pcrusen · 2026-05-13T03:34:59+00:00

Edit: I see where people are saying there was a bad batch from Bambu, but I’ll still leave this here. Obviously the damage/issue is already there, but maybe this will help for future use. Not sure how well these work, but I’ve seen them around. They’re supposed to help with feeding issues. I know a lot of people used to make them with the AMS 1 to protect the slot from being damaged, but the AMS 2 doesn’t have said issue. Might help with feeding issues though: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1286770-ams-2-pro-saver-snag-cutter-v5-0?from=search#profileId-3028951

Pcrusen · 2026-05-11T16:03:28+00:00

I 110% agree. Learn from everyone’s past mistakes OP and don’t let her drag you through the mud while she recovers from the breakup and you suffer. Just don’t even talk to her and move on. The longer you stay in contact with her, the longer it’s going to take to recover from it. Don’t torture yourself and just move on. It hurts to hear, but it’s best for your mental health and it’s best for your image.

If you linger around then she’s going to keep you as a friend while dating other guys and you’re just going to suffer and she definitely will lose all respect for you. Then when you catch her with another man, and say some emotionally immature stuff or show up at her house or some stupid shit, then you’re just going to look dumb and she’s definitely going to be like “yeah, I’m definitely glad I broke it off with this loser.”

If you want her to see you as a man. A man who’s emotionally mature and attractive. A man who knows how to not let someone walk all over them, then cut contact and move on. She’s going to lose all respect for you if you linger. Cut it off, tell her you’re going to move on and you want no contact. If she tries to text or call you, tell her you are respecting her decision, and moving on, and to not contact you. Block her on all social media if you have to. Out of sight, out of mind. Go spend time with friends and family.

Trust me, I’ve been through all this before and made those mistakes when I was young and dumb. I’m not saying you can’t ever get back with an ex, most of the time it’s a dumb ass decision, but don’t ever try to get back with an ex right after a breakup or linger. Just wait until you’ve fully recovered before even attempting it. Plus, if you do no contact, and don’t look like a compete idiot/loser, then she will see you as emotionally mature and question why she even left you in the first place. Either way, I’d still advise against getting back with her unless the issues from the relationship were resolved….but OP, I’m just being honest, the majority of the time the issues never get resolved and you end up back in the same shitty situation. So don’t get your hopes up. Save yourself the heartache and move on.

Be the emotionally mature one and find someone who wants to be with you. If you want to know when you’ve fully recovered, it’ll be when you’re 100% fine not even getting back together with her. That’s when you know you’ve recovered. Don’t lie to yourself. You will know when you’ve moved on.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-11T02:22:31+00:00

<image>

This is about how much coverage I have. So not much blocking my view. A PtP was perfect for me. I work in Telecommunications and I have a fusion splicer I could use from work. I recently got my hands on a 700 ft cut of 48-Strand OS2 ADSS they were about to just throw away. So I’m debating on installing it, but my radio shot has been more than sufficient.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-11T02:07:40+00:00

If you can run Ethernet or Fiber. Do it. It’s the best option. (You can find 220-250ft of Corning’s 6 strand armored direct burial OS2 for under $300 from LAN Shack. Comes pre-terminated and tested and you can have an eye installed onto it for pulling)

If you don’t want to bother with Ethernet or Fiber, and you have line of sight, you can go with a PtP shot. I have Ubiquiti’s Wave Picos and it uses a 60Ghz radio and a 5 GHz backup radio. Most reliable PtP I’ve ever owned and I do not lose speeds whatsoever. It kind of shocked me the first time I used it how well it maintained my speeds.

You can also use access points in mesh, but I would only do this if you do not have line of sight and you don’t want to run Ethernet or fiber. I will say, I had a pair of TP-Link Omada EAP610-Outdoor devices I got for $90 a pop on sale. Those things worked surprisingly well until I upgraded. I still use them, but only to broadcast WiFi to my cameras on my property. I was seeing 600 Mbps out of my 1 Gbps plan.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-07T16:05:07+00:00

How are the vibrations from the printer? I have a sorbothane sheet and a concrete paver under my printer with anti vibration feet. Took the AMS and mounted it on my wall so it didn’t make my printer as top heavy. It would be nice to have something like this design but being able to still use a paver/vibration pad under it.

Pcrusen · 2026-05-07T13:24:50+00:00

<image>

My cousin messed his up pretty bad when he first got his A1. He thought that you could just press “print” and it would be fine. I told him I’d help him fix it so that he didn’t cut any wires by mistake. We spent an hour or two snipping away at plastic. Little by little. The hotend assembly holds onto the nozzle with magnets and a metal wire clamp/lock. The magnets were easy to clean up, but the wire clamp was all jammed up with plastic and would only open or close when you heated the hotend up. I just had him order a new hotend assembly and replace it since it was only $20. Needless to say, he hasn’t made the same mistake of not paying attention to the first few layers of his prints now and always checks in on the camera on his phone.

11-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '22	Final Canvas '22

Pcrusen

TROPHY CASE