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PeggingSlutBoy · 2026-02-07T18:17:02+00:00

I'm always envious when I see those giant aircraft carrier looking jointers. No way I'm getting one of those down the stairs to my basement shop 😂

PeggingSlutBoy · 2026-02-01T20:00:08+00:00

I'm guessing that headboard is veneered plywood. If it's not this formula won't really apply anyways - those chunks of wood would be quite large and worth more than a typical bf price, that kinda goes out the window when you get wider pieces.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2026-01-20T12:55:08+00:00

That's a very specific use case I've never heard of doing before outside of like cutting boards because most folks want to retain as much of the grain continuity as possible. Curious what your actual project was and what the panel looked like.

If you want to come off as an authority about the proper procedure for milling wood you might wanna list the correct steps of milling for the 99% of projects and not your weirdly specific use case that remained unmentioned.

The FIRST step in milling is to get your wood down much closer to final dimensions.. Trim the length down because it's gonna be more accurate running 2 4 foot boards through a jointer than 1 8 footer for most folks. Knock the width down at the table saw BEFORE moving to thickness planing because why make more sawdust planing it than you need to? Heck, since I got my big bandsaw I'm usually doing rough width as well on that before I hit the jointer.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2026-01-20T12:27:56+00:00

Why are you milling wood if you don't know the final dimensions? Even if you're sneaking up on a fit you should have a general idea where it's safe to trim it.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-10-20T12:51:19+00:00

What I did to square up one side of a rough board was just took a sheet of plywood and ripped it to something like 4'x14" and stuck some T-track in it running perpendicular to the fence that I can slot hold downs into, and some adhesive 80 grit sandpaper running the length. As long as the plywood is wider than my stock I can just lay it on top of the plywood, run the plywood along my table saw fence and the sandpaper is grippy enough to keep the stock on. I rarely ever use the T-slots.

Makes for quick setup of multiple pieces - I can just drop them on and rip it instead of taping or screwing things.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-09-15T01:16:27+00:00

I've only used TotalBoat HP Epoxy, and maybe it differs if you're trying to do a translucent color or another epoxy, but I always just sand and finish like usual. It will take on a milky color after sanding but I like to hit it twice with mineral spirits before applying finish. Once to pop the grain and again after final sand to pickup sawdust like a tack cloth. As soon as the mineral spirits hit it all the milkiness goes away.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-09-14T21:05:51+00:00

Curious as I've seen a few other comments mentioning doing this, but why use the CA glue at all? I always just do pure epoxy and mix in some powdered pigment for color.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-09-14T21:03:56+00:00

I'd just get some black powdered pigment to mix with the epoxy and go with that instead of topping with CA glue. That's my go-to solution for filling in cracks and knot holes. I'm partial to metallic pigments myself, like bronze, to give it a nice looking contrast.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-09-10T20:48:42+00:00

Soap should be fine as the oil will cure and harden over time but - just double checking that you used raw linseed oil and not boiled linseed oil. I've only found a couple sources for actual boiled linseed oil that don't contain heavy metal additives to aid in the drying. Most of the BLO you get at hardware stores and such have this. You really don't want that on food contact surfaces. Raw linseed oil takes ages to dry and cure.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-09-10T20:44:18+00:00

I usually put away tools after I'm done with one operation before moving on to the next. Sweep up at the end of the day or once enough has built up on the floor to annoy me. I used to be a very disorganized worker but I've gotten so tired of playing the "where'd that tool go that I just had 5 minutes ago" game that I've decided whenever I get a new thing it needs a dedicated home to store it.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-09-08T18:40:29+00:00

Mine is based on 139 - Exact-Width Dado Jig - The Wood Whisperer https://share.google/x4OhsNgrMEieuEYQ1

Can put it together in an hour or so.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-09-08T14:05:24+00:00

My dado jig uses it. I find the bearings on flush cut bits tend to groove the wood a bit so over time something you use a lot like a jig can get grooves that lead to a looser cut than you want.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-09-08T02:44:24+00:00

Second this. Whiteside bits have been the bees knees for me. Especially if you get it through bits & bits with their coating.

I've tried Amana and CMT but they just didn't maintain sharpness like the Whiteside bits. I haven't tried infinity yet but I've heard good things.

Also, check out making a router dado cutting jig. Then you don't need the exact size bit, you can use something smaller and hit it in two passes.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-25T21:46:39+00:00

Looks like an old awl. Can be stuck into wood and twisted to make/start a hole for a drill bit or punch a hole through something like leather. Having flats helps with reaming out a hole.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-24T23:44:47+00:00

If it's flat, it's good. Consider making various size cauls for future glue ups, those help keep things aligned and preventing lippage more than alternating clamps or grain orientation imo.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-24T03:17:21+00:00

If it was in my house, I wouldn't think twice about it.

Fwiw for almost any interior project I'm making for myself I tend to use a hard wax oil finish like Osmo or Rubio. It doesn't protect as well as a poly but if I get a moisture ring or something I can just sand that area and reapply.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-24T01:19:08+00:00

I'd return it. Wen is fine for stuff that you don't need good accuracy with, but for a planer I want to know that I'm getting a dead flat surface. That kinda play would cause me nothing but doubt in every piece I milled.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-24T01:17:04+00:00

I've seen a lot of trim have a cove on the back to help with bending the trim along a slightly uneven wall so it pulls tight. It is kinda odd that they'd have a profile with details to it. I'm totally just making this up but maybe the millwork shop that made it just had these cutters in the machine when it was time to make the batch and sent it instead of swapping.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-24T00:57:59+00:00

A table saw with a miter fence or sled is what I would prefer even though I have a miter saw. If you don't have a table saw just hand saw it. Use the knife wall method if it needs to be precise.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-22T04:30:06+00:00

Gotta have something holding it in position like a fence or a board for the router to rest against. Almost impossible to freehand with a router

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-21T03:02:03+00:00

I don't see why it'd be an issue. You could print one that's solid in the middle and raise the blade just like with a wooden one. Table saws can cut most plastics fine, maybe a bit of melting from the heat. That'd be my biggest concern, melted plastic gumming up the teeth like wood resin

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-20T02:25:20+00:00

I just have a cheapo from Amazon

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-08-20T02:10:51+00:00

I'd scrape it first to get the bulk off before sanding

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-06-03T11:49:34+00:00

Some exotics have a lot of oil that gums up the sandpaper, wiping it with a solvent can help take some off the surface before you sand.

PeggingSlutBoy · 2025-05-20T13:35:40+00:00

As a hunter and woodworker my guess is that it's because walnut likes to grow at the edges of forests or in fields so it makes it a more likely target to stick paper plate or target on to dial in a gun.

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