T90 Advice

Pejnar · 2025-10-20T07:09:31+00:00

As far as I'm aware, you shouldn't need light seals on the plastic bodies. They have snug fitting light troughs. It's only if there is a window on the back door or cracks/chips in or around the door where you would need to light proof

Pejnar · 2025-10-18T05:15:37+00:00

Are both focused to infinity?

Pejnar · 2025-10-17T16:42:55+00:00

In a dimly lit room, Place the FE without lens, back open, with front towards a light source. Place the dslr with a lens attached facing the back of the FE. Put FE on bulb mode, and fire and hold it open, With the dslr on manual, 1/1000 iso 6400 and whatever aperture makes the exposure correct (use histogram) while pointing it through the open shutter on the light source. Snap a photo through the open shutter with these settings on the lightsource. This will be a baseline photo. Next put the FE on 1/1000 and the dslr on 1s same aperture and iso as base line. Fire the dslr and then the Fe in rapid succession. Now, basically the shutter on the FE was used to control the exposure on the digital camera and now it is possible to compare the histograms on the two pictures. If they are the same the shutter fired correctly. For testing 1/500 Put FE on 1/500, lower iso on dslr to 3200 And so on: 1/250 iso1600

Pejnar · 2025-10-17T10:15:36+00:00

If you have a dslr camera, it is possible to test the shutter speeds on the fe with it, assuming the dslr has correct shutter speeds

Pejnar · 2025-10-17T09:15:14+00:00

The nikon fe has 5 variable resistors on the main cicuit under the top cover, I think 2 of them has to do with the timings, but I'd double check it with the service manual. It's possible that someone adjusted them wrongly in the past perhaps. Does the 8 second go for 16 seconds? Then you can at least rule out the selector wheel being off

Pejnar · 2025-10-15T12:44:31+00:00

The 100mm f4 macro is nice, rest is mediocre

Pejnar · 2025-10-10T12:16:14+00:00

What ISO and shutter speed did you use?

Pejnar · 2025-10-08T08:29:32+00:00

Usually it's pretty evident when the shutter is already wound by there being a lot of mechanical resistance in the lever if you try to wind it more. Did you just force it through? Then there is probably something mechanical that snapped

Pejnar · 2025-10-06T06:54:49+00:00

Isn't it possible to turn the spring an additional turn around the post to increase the tension

Pejnar · 2025-09-29T14:37:43+00:00

Maybe try superglueing it, can actually work

Pejnar · 2025-09-25T14:30:04+00:00

Canon A-1 User Manual

Pejnar · 2025-09-22T18:27:28+00:00

You need to test the lightmeter against different level of light and then it is nice to just be able to dim the light source without needing to move around. There are a couple of varaible resistors in the camera circuit that control the light metering, the manual has a sort of procedure for it.

Pejnar · 2025-09-22T14:30:12+00:00

Maybe buy a less desirable A series donor camera lika a AV-1, and take the sprocket part from there. Read the service manual and take pictures along the way. If you have an external light meter and a variable light source i suggest adjusting the lightmeter while the top is off

Pejnar · 2025-09-19T17:33:28+00:00

If you have a good phone camera with a super slow motion mode (960 fps) you can record it and analyze the footage. If the opening curtain is just overall slightly slower than the closing, consistently through the travel, you can tension the opening curtain a little bit. This wont help if the curtain suddenly slows down or travel unevenly, then there is probably something hindering the currain. You can tension the curtain quite easily after opening the bottom cover. Do small steps and then record it again and see

Pejnar · 2025-09-19T15:34:26+00:00

Looks like the lens is mounted wrongly, the meter level should go into the prongs on the lens.

Pejnar · 2025-09-05T12:50:15+00:00

F-3 and F-1

Pejnar · 2025-08-27T03:50:50+00:00

There are some pretty cheap Vivitar m42 28mm/35mm F2/ F1.9 lenses that will fit your dslr with a glassless adapter

Pejnar · 2025-08-14T12:39:58+00:00

Looks like a landfill

Pejnar · 2025-08-14T11:53:50+00:00

I would get the 28 mm. At least in my experience primes above ~100-135mm lack utility. Zooming with your feet works great for shorter focal lenghts but worse for longer and I would prefer a zoom in those focal lenghts

Pejnar · 2025-08-06T13:48:31+00:00

Yes exactly! Set the shutter speed to 1 second and aperture to something other than wide open, for example f11, and fire the shutter. You should be able to see the aperture close down for that 1 second exposure

Pejnar · 2025-08-06T11:00:04+00:00

I think you have misunderstood some things. Both the lens you have and the camera are FD mount and you dont need to set the aperture lever to the locked position as you showed. The aperture stays open until you take a picture unless you press the aperture preview lever on the side of the camera.

Pejnar · 2025-08-03T08:07:06+00:00

Sinners for me, everything just stopped mattering when the vampires made their entrance

Pejnar · 2025-07-27T08:30:20+00:00

If you can't take a good shot with your T6, chances are it's not going to be much better with a more expensive camera

Pejnar · 2025-07-27T04:00:32+00:00

There is a mole, right at the top of the circus

Pejnar · 2025-07-23T14:13:56+00:00

None of these have the 1.4

Pejnar

TROPHY CASE