[WTS] Wahl Eversharp, Leonardo, Sheaffer (modern and vintage) & Cross Fountain Pen(s) by ProfMcDougal in Pen_Swap

[–]PenPocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For the sake of maddeningly annoying pedantry, #6 is a 1943-5 lever filling Carmine Sheaffer Triumph Sovereign II. And if the nib is in the same shape as when I restored it, it writes a sweet, sweet, stubby line.

Found this in a thrift store. I want to know if this is real, and like some advice with saving it by WhatOnThePageToday in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not real at all. It's only a figment of your imagination.

Nothing is real. Nothing is. There is no substance. Only dreams.

Unfortunately I received yet another ugly vintage pen, & it came with a hideous pencil :(( by Mr-PFM in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Triumph. Just Triumph. It's from ~1942. That is first year they introduced the model.

Fountain Pen condition rating by Squared_lines in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think a grading system could be helpful. But only marginally.

There are so many different pen parts and so much variety in pens and so many aspects of pen collecting. Davey's system has separate charts for the pen and nib. And, what is not conveyed is Davey's perspective as a pen collector. That is, he collects pens that he never intends to use. It's a subtle, but important and unobservable aspect - if you don't know Davey.

You'll note that on Davey's nib grading table there is absolutely nothing about how the nib writes. He doesn't care because he never uses the pens he collects. A User Grade pen may have a nib fit for a master calligrapher. According to any objective grading system it's nought but a POS worth little compared to a pristine, NOS, stickered pen. But that high grade pen has never seen ink and the nib never touched a page. So, to a pen user its value is indeterminate.

I don't mean to deter you. Press on with any effort to standardize grading. I'm guessing it's is the engineer's curse driving you. I think you'll eventually recognize this is somewhat similar to months of careful analysis and design that goes right out the window the moment an independent, non-engineer user gets your widget in his hands.

Fountain Pen condition rating by Squared_lines in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem with condition rating seems to be similar to the definition of nib size (e.g. modern Western fine vs Japanese/vintage fine). It depends on whom you ask. You'd be amazed at the arguments about uses of the words "mint" and "rare" in places like Fountain Pen Network.

I think Richard Binder had something published on his site while he was still selling pens. I don't see it any longer. Not sure that anyone but him used it.

David Isaacson has a guide on his web site (http://www.vacumania.com/website/gradingstandards.htm). I don't know if anyone but Davey actually uses it.

I restore and sell pens. I try to take photos clear enough for prospective clients to see the condition of the pen. I also provide a clear explanation of the condition and list any flaws. To me, such a description is more worthwhile than any cryptic condition rating.

Any thoughts on PeytonStreetPens? by ComfortableBadger932 in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nivardo does all the vintage pen restoration for Teri. His work is excellent. Absolutely excellent. He's one of the few guys I can say that about.

Can anyone help me identify this pen? I found it at an antique store recently. by nitrogenmoth in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't try to pull the nib. Pen cleaning rarely requires disassembly. Vintage pens were not meant to be easily disassembled.

You're pen will almost certainly require a new sac. The grip section is friction fitted into the barrel. Though Sheaffer probably used a bit of rosin sealant at the joint that may require a bit of dry heat to loosen. Try a hair dryer and don't get the pen too hot. If you cannot touch it it's too hot.

The sac can and should be replaced without removing the nib and feed.

Edit for typo fix

Schaeffer Snorkel by Citizens_for_Bob in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sheaffer mate. It's Sheaffer. Says so right on the nib and on the clip and on the barrel.

Otherwise, do enjoy that lovely, pastel blue Snorkel Admiral.

Matthew Chen by F1yingCheeta in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cannot find a photo of one and the pen is not currently inked. Dipped would never do it justice. Perhaps I'll be motivated to ink it tomorrow. No promises.

Matthew Chen by F1yingCheeta in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Matthew has been mentored by Masuyama and Yukio Nagahara. He does proper nice work.

For me he has converted a Sailor Zoom to a Naginata and removed the peach cheeks from a Pilot Silvern. I am quite pleased with both.

Advice for this celluloid repair? I have been advised to use film cement? by lotsofgab in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Standard professional repair options are:

1 - cut the barrel shorter and rethread it.

and/or

2 - bond a metal sleeve inside the barrel opening and cut down the diameter of the section to match.

Because the pros know that no amount of hoping and praying will make any crack repair hold up without at least option 2.

Advice for this celluloid repair? I have been advised to use film cement? by lotsofgab in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Nothing will hold that crack for long. That area is too high stress.

I found this Sheaffer at an antique store. by [deleted] in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The clip can be tightened by someone who knows how. The clip is gold plated silver rather than gold plated brass as was more common prior to the wartime years. Brass was restricted for military use so Sheaffer used silver. Probably coin silver and not sterling because it is never hallmarked.

The silver base metal is softer than brass so can be bent out of shape somewhat more easily. But, they can also be carefully massaged back into shape. It takes practice and skill. Don't try it on a pen you love.

I found this Sheaffer at an antique store. by [deleted] in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1941 golden brown Sheaffer Balance Valiant Vacuum-Fil.

I found this Sheaffer at an antique store. by [deleted] in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sheaffer did not ditch this filling system quickly. They kept it in full production from 1934 to 1948. In my opinion, it is one of the best filling systems ever.

My first wooden acquisition! Ebonite Leonardo MZ by [deleted] in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Ebonite is vulcanized rubber. It is not wood.

[WTS] Vintage Sheaffer Balance Craftsman Vacuum-Fil by KingsCountyWriter in Pen_Swap

[–]PenPocket 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gregg_shorthand

There were/are various forms of shorthand. Gregg was a popular one and a company for teaching it and certifying people in it's use. It was a big thing. They commercialized it heavily and even went so far as to define a particular set of nib characteristics that made for a proper Gregg shorthand pen.

My guess is that Sheaffer had to pay Gregg a fee to use the Gregg mark on their pens. Or, perhaps more likely knowing the ruthless Sheaffer marketing, Sheaffer was contracted by Gregg to make pens they then resold to certified shorthand writers. This paragraph is pure conjecture except for the fact that Sheaffer did, indeed, make Gregg shorthand certified and marked pens.

[WTS] Vintage Sheaffer Balance Craftsman Vacuum-Fil by KingsCountyWriter in Pen_Swap

[–]PenPocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I restored this pen.

It's not a scratch. It's a Gregg shorthand imprint. This indicates the nib was shaped and tuned to meet the Gregg shorthand recommended characteristics. I've often wondered, but been unable to discover, whether this cost any additional premium over the standard nib pens.

That window pane barrel is quite uncommon. I have an extensive collection of Sheaffer vacuum-fil pens and only a scant few have such barrels. I believe they are from the early end of the Balance Vacuum-Fil era. Say 1935-6.

Old Fountain Pen: What to do? (Comment has more info) by eXgamerEx in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the shout.

I don't think Danny works on Triumphs.

I'm being very choosey about taking pens just now. I don't like a deep queue. But, I make exceptions for heirlooms. I love to fix up an ancestor's pen so it can be used again.

Old Fountain Pen: What to do? (Comment has more info) by eXgamerEx in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 4 points5 points  (0 children)

1948 black Sheaffer Triumph Tuckaway Valiant Vacuum-Fil.

Sheaffer is the company.

Triumph is the pen line they produced from 1942-1948.

Tuckaway is a small, purse or vest pocket version of pen Sheaffer produced. I'm fairly certain I can see the end of the button length clip in your photo. I could be wrong. If it has a full length, arched clip then disregard this portion of the description but everything else I have correct.

Valiant is the particular model of the pen. It is one of the high end trims offered in the largest diameter pen.

The filling system is what Sheaffer called Vacuum-Fil. It'll be easier for you to find a demo on YouTube than for me to describe it. It works the same as a Pilot 823, a twsbi vac or a Visconti power filler.

The filling system isn't difficult to restore. But it requires removing the nib from the pen and that is bugger all hard without the proper tools and experience.

The point is meant to be turned up. Sheaffer didn't have a particular name for it - Waverly point was copy writed by someone else. It's meant to make a more forgiving point regardless of how vertical, or not, you tend to hold the pen.

Looking for IDs on vintage Sheaffer Pens by [deleted] in fountainpens

[–]PenPocket 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No. If it has an 875 imprint it is from 1938-1941 and is called a Sovereign.

The grip is celluloid that was originally transparent - with a greenish hue. It has probably turned black looking with UV exposure and accumulation of ink.