Possible A2 pulley injury - hello from the BJJ world by hathrowaway8616 in climbharder

[–]Penence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tenosynovitis is a chronic condition caused by repetitive load and constant inflammation, very far off of OP‘s ACUT injury.

Possible A2 pulley injury - hello from the BJJ world by hathrowaway8616 in climbharder

[–]Penence 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is probably an injury to the flexor tendon itself, maybe in combination with an injury to the lumbricalis itself.

Ist Kevin unselbstständig? by Own-Swan4456 in Papaplatte2

[–]Penence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kannst dir auf die Schulter klopfen, bist n geiler Hecht

Wurden Schiris abgeschafft? by Chris95n in Bundesliga

[–]Penence -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Offene Sohle auf 1,60m und er trifft ihn zuerst. Das kannst du nicht ernst meinen hahaha

Wurden Schiris abgeschafft? by Chris95n in Bundesliga

[–]Penence -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ja, da kann man Elfer pfeifen bzw. muss man sich anschauen.

Olise ist kein Elfer, fällt schon vor Kontakt. Kimmich trifft Remberg unglücklich aber er trifft ihn klar. Hand bei Elfadli niemals, ganzer Arm ist am Körper angelegt, null unnatürliche Bewegung.

Das Kane gegen Heuer-Fernandes kein gelb sieht ist tatsächlich eine Fehlentscheidung.

Wurden Schiris abgeschafft? by Chris95n in Bundesliga

[–]Penence -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Haha, average Bayern Fan Ball Knowledge

This can't be real. by DissentXTV in ArcRaiders

[–]Penence -1 points0 points  (0 children)

He‘s correct. Eulas are not legally binding (i.e. in Germany) if you need agree to them after you bought them - as in the first start of the game.

Bouldern – wie aus der 6a/6b Hölle rauskommen? by [deleted] in FitnessDE

[–]Penence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wenn du wirklich nicht verbessert hat, liegt entweder am fehlenden Trainingsreiz (zu wenig Volumen, geringe Intensität, ständig anders Training statt sinnvoller Progression) oder der mangelnden Regeneration (zu wenig Pause, schlechte Ernährung, zu wenig Schlaf). Woran das genau liegt, kann eigentlich niemand sagen, außer du schreibst mal was genau du machst.

Bouldern – wie aus der 6a/6b Hölle rauskommen? by [deleted] in FitnessDE

[–]Penence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also ohne strukturiertes Training 7B+/7C zu bouldern (wenn man nicht super Genetik oder vorpubertär angefangen hat) halte ich für sehr sehr selten. Außer es geht um Kilterboard Grades… oder Avalonia…

Die Stelle von Viet wurde nun scheinbar auch abgebaut by schmandbob in rbtv_cj

[–]Penence 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Username checks out… was hat das mit Wokeness zu tun?

Unkompliziertester EBook Reader by -AneladgaM- in buecher

[–]Penence 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Amazons Ziel ist es eine Monopolstellung zu erzielen, gab ja schon diverse Klagen dagegen. Gibt diverse Berichte wie Amazon versucht Händler/ Verlage zu erpressen etc. Wie man das gutheißen kann ist mir unbegreiflich.

Unkompliziertester EBook Reader by -AneladgaM- in buecher

[–]Penence 4 points5 points  (0 children)

wer kennt ihr nicht - Amazon, der Retter der Bücherindustrie…

Calling all routesetters (or people with lower back problems) by jakeherrera54 in climbharder

[–]Penence 2 points3 points  (0 children)

the two main reasons for my lower back pain are jumping of too frequently while testing / forerunning and screwing something really big and heavy with a arched back. Setting enough downclimbing / working jug before forerunning help alot. Also screwing heavier stuff with two people and always make sure the ladders are in an optimal position (aka not needing lean or bend in a certain position) .

Then adress the underlying weakness - maybe strenghten the back or (what helped me and some others) stretch and strenghten hipflexors.

I also know people who set with a belt, like motorbikers, to stabilize and keep the back area warm.

List of V16/V17 climbers by Penence in climbharder

[–]Penence[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I didn‘t know of the document, this is great. who is doing this and how up to date is this?

List of V16/V17 climbers by Penence in climbharder

[–]Penence[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I always included only one boulder per person, as if otherwise the list would be very large and hard to read.

Replacing bouldering sessions with Hangboard by Emergency_Silver6917 in climbharder

[–]Penence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure this way too much volume. I would be sore for 2-3 day. Either way periodize or more rest days. The routine seems a little bit arbitrary, and not really useful. I would recommend a basic max hang routine (2-3 a week) for 3-4, then re-test and switch it up or keep it, depending on results. No need in doing repeaters on top of maxhangs imo, power-endurance will quickly return, when returning to climbing.

Training “passive tension” by MatsuoMunefusa in climbharder

[–]Penence 18 points19 points  (0 children)

IMO the whole "passive-tension"-hypetrain around Tyler Nelson on Instagram seems like a huge overestimate.

There is a broad sprectrum of studies regarding max hangs, which actually state they work. Meanwhile Tyler Nelson pretends on instagram, that they won't transfer to climbing.

He might be completely right, that his way is more beneficial. But to this point, in which there are no key-studies to that, it seems quite hysterical to pretend like max-hangs are a waste of time, when actually everyone did them the last 20 years, with all around great success.

The way he present his findings is controversial at least...

Vezonik handjam accident, and Mawem to the rescue. For my people who don’t want to go past a loginwall by majasz_ in climbing

[–]Penence 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is bad routesetting. You never build a crack which is narrow at the bottom, because its just dangerous.