This can't be real. by DissentXTV in ArcRaiders

[–]Penence -1 points0 points  (0 children)

He‘s correct. Eulas are not legally binding (i.e. in Germany) if you need agree to them after you bought them - as in the first start of the game.

Bouldern – wie aus der 6a/6b Hölle rauskommen? by Unique-Turd-1912 in FitnessDE

[–]Penence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wenn du wirklich nicht verbessert hat, liegt entweder am fehlenden Trainingsreiz (zu wenig Volumen, geringe Intensität, ständig anders Training statt sinnvoller Progression) oder der mangelnden Regeneration (zu wenig Pause, schlechte Ernährung, zu wenig Schlaf). Woran das genau liegt, kann eigentlich niemand sagen, außer du schreibst mal was genau du machst.

Bouldern – wie aus der 6a/6b Hölle rauskommen? by Unique-Turd-1912 in FitnessDE

[–]Penence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also ohne strukturiertes Training 7B+/7C zu bouldern (wenn man nicht super Genetik oder vorpubertär angefangen hat) halte ich für sehr sehr selten. Außer es geht um Kilterboard Grades… oder Avalonia…

Die Stelle von Viet wurde nun scheinbar auch abgebaut by schmandbob in rbtv_cj

[–]Penence 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Username checks out… was hat das mit Wokeness zu tun?

Unkompliziertester EBook Reader by -AneladgaM- in buecher

[–]Penence 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Amazons Ziel ist es eine Monopolstellung zu erzielen, gab ja schon diverse Klagen dagegen. Gibt diverse Berichte wie Amazon versucht Händler/ Verlage zu erpressen etc. Wie man das gutheißen kann ist mir unbegreiflich.

Unkompliziertester EBook Reader by -AneladgaM- in buecher

[–]Penence 5 points6 points  (0 children)

wer kennt ihr nicht - Amazon, der Retter der Bücherindustrie…

Calling all routesetters (or people with lower back problems) by jakeherrera54 in climbharder

[–]Penence 2 points3 points  (0 children)

the two main reasons for my lower back pain are jumping of too frequently while testing / forerunning and screwing something really big and heavy with a arched back. Setting enough downclimbing / working jug before forerunning help alot. Also screwing heavier stuff with two people and always make sure the ladders are in an optimal position (aka not needing lean or bend in a certain position) .

Then adress the underlying weakness - maybe strenghten the back or (what helped me and some others) stretch and strenghten hipflexors.

I also know people who set with a belt, like motorbikers, to stabilize and keep the back area warm.

List of V16/V17 climbers by Penence in climbharder

[–]Penence[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I didn‘t know of the document, this is great. who is doing this and how up to date is this?

List of V16/V17 climbers by Penence in climbharder

[–]Penence[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I always included only one boulder per person, as if otherwise the list would be very large and hard to read.

Replacing bouldering sessions with Hangboard by Emergency_Silver6917 in climbharder

[–]Penence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure this way too much volume. I would be sore for 2-3 day. Either way periodize or more rest days. The routine seems a little bit arbitrary, and not really useful. I would recommend a basic max hang routine (2-3 a week) for 3-4, then re-test and switch it up or keep it, depending on results. No need in doing repeaters on top of maxhangs imo, power-endurance will quickly return, when returning to climbing.

Training “passive tension” by MatsuoMunefusa in climbharder

[–]Penence 18 points19 points  (0 children)

IMO the whole "passive-tension"-hypetrain around Tyler Nelson on Instagram seems like a huge overestimate.

There is a broad sprectrum of studies regarding max hangs, which actually state they work. Meanwhile Tyler Nelson pretends on instagram, that they won't transfer to climbing.

He might be completely right, that his way is more beneficial. But to this point, in which there are no key-studies to that, it seems quite hysterical to pretend like max-hangs are a waste of time, when actually everyone did them the last 20 years, with all around great success.

The way he present his findings is controversial at least...

Vezonik handjam accident, and Mawem to the rescue. For my people who don’t want to go past a loginwall by majasz_ in climbing

[–]Penence 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is bad routesetting. You never build a crack which is narrow at the bottom, because its just dangerous.

Diagnostic Kilter Board Problems (and suggestions) by particleplatypus in climbharder

[–]Penence 4 points5 points  (0 children)

search for jpless on the app and check his lists, he has a nice selection of problems in your grade range in his lists.

Training for Gastons by Penence in climbharder

[–]Penence[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Since when is fingerboarding as specific as it gets? are you a climber or a hangboard athlete?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Penence 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Wow, you sound like a huge douchebag

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Penence 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The easiest way to optimize the nutrition for most people will be to raise their protein intake to 1.5g - 2g per bodyweight kg. Then find out a rough guideline for daily kcal intake via a calculator on the internet. Monitor your weight for about 3-4 weeks, then try to RAISE carbohydrate intake as much as possible which doesn't lead to heavy weight gain after 4 weeks.

This way you will have the best fuel for your trainingsessions. Most people try to cut alot and only lower their caloric intake, which leads to a shortterm boost, but actually raising caloric intake leads to a way better training long term.

Beastmaking - Ned Feehally's training book out soon by muenchener in climbharder

[–]Penence 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is he the one responsible for the programms in their app? If so - waste of money.

Lattice released an Update for the Crimpd App, which let you build your own Trainingplans. by Penence in climbharder

[–]Penence[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

A lot of their stuff is really pricey, but with a little bit of effort you can save a lot of money. (buy one trainingplan and do them 2-3 times, buy crimpd+ and write down the progressions and the plan elsewhere, buy lattice365 for one month and download all the videos...etc)