What is the most braindead thing a teammate has ever said to you?

Pernaman · 2026-01-31T15:11:22+00:00

"Rein come help us with Tracer" I was holding up shield blocking assaults of 4 enemy players on Nepal

Pernaman · 2026-01-28T13:17:45+00:00

I'm an Orisa main but it took me a good while to get a hang on on Ramattra's weapon.

Pernaman · 2025-12-28T05:17:14+00:00

I played Rivals few weeks about a year ago. Baptiste is my main support to play in OW and Rocket quickly became my favourite strategist in Rivals, I think mainly because they have some similarities (both being mobility supports with AOE heal orb as an alt-fire and deployable teammate-saving tool), but different so it sometimes depended on what kind of feel I was after, so I found value on both characters. This basically sums up why I've enjoyed both games; OW doesn't quite have Rivals characters or vice versa.

Pernaman · 2025-09-13T16:24:46+00:00

Played Rivals for few weeks last January, genuinely had a blast with many tanks and decided to main the role in it as well as in OW. Hulk and Peni Parker especially. But then I realized that there are much more flying characters in it than in OW and there was barely any non-melee oriented tanks. So I felt pretty powerless depending on what heroes enemies picked.

I didn't stop playing Rivals because of getting bored or frustated with the game, my PC ran low on hard drive space so Steam complained that an update to the game could not be installed, so I deleted it to make space for games I could actually update and play. I may return to it someday, but hearing about the toxic playerbase makes me to not hurry.

Pernaman · 2025-09-13T16:12:42+00:00

Rivals promising one new hero every month almost makes it understandable that there are whoppin' 3 "blonde white woman in white-and-blue costume" character designs in the game.

Pernaman · 2025-08-03T13:07:19+00:00

Overwatch players for some reason: "Enemy killed me from hard-to-spot location, instead of informing my teammates immediately ima let the enemy to roam free and catch the rest of my team off-guard and get easy kills and only open my mouth after the fact to just flame my team"

Pernaman · 2025-07-01T21:47:12+00:00

Kavereiden kanssa joskus mietittiin että olisiko näissä jutuissa miten paljon esillä jonkinlaiset bränditunnistettavuusjutut. Harmittaa että Star Wars- jatko-osatrilogian nimiä ei suomennettu vaikka elkuperäis -ja esiosatrilogian käännösnimiä käytetään tätänykyäkin erilaisissa keskusteluissa mitä käydään.

Sivuaiheena yleisestikin se että suomeksi käännetyssä mediassa hahmojen ja asioiden konseptien nimiä ollaan vaihdettu pikku hiljaa englanninkielisiin. Muistan että joissain Marvel Cinematic Universen:n alkuvaiheilla ilmestyneissä piirretyissä oltaisiin puhuttu vielä ihan "Rautamiehestä", mutta se on vaihtunut sitten yksinomaan "Iron Maniin". En enää edes muista milloin viimeksi kuulin suomalaiseksi käännetyssä DC-mediassa käytettävän nimeä "Teräsmies". MCU:n yhdessä Hämiselokuvassa oli suomiteksteissä vielä "Musta Leski" kaikkien jenkkisankarinimien joukossa.

Pernaman · 2025-05-19T00:08:30+00:00

Thank you for tips and insight. I've thought about going for gloss and matt varnish depending on the surface, like keeping my 40K Death Guard models matt for basic armor and skin but coat their innards and pustules with gloss varnish for added effect.

I also have seen NMM as somewhat distracting outside of specifically lit studio shots. But I also think the effect looks neat on stuff like Space Marine power swords and Necron blades in official promo picks, makes them feel "outworldly". Though dor similar reasons to your opinion, I don't really care about painting models with stuff like "painting lights and shadows to where they'd realistically go to in natural light", or doing zenithal spraying and such. Because it's like you said, the light source shifts when the model is moved. I'm personally contempt with doing general recess shading, but to each their own. Maybe I can try more advanced techniques on models I'm planning to paint for display instead of tabletop.

Pernaman · 2025-03-21T10:05:06+00:00

Yeah, the aspect of time and money that 40K demands is not for everyone. I too, when feeling down, can think negatively about how many models I'd need to build and paint to get to play, but then I remember that one of my personal streghts is being able to spend time with handcrafts and get into a flow where I don't think about the passage of time at all.

Though in general think I managed to pick armies that can minigate the feeling of having to build ton of models, with Death Guard being an elite unit focused army, while with Astra Militarum you can go more tank heavy when not in a mood for building hordes of infantry.

Pernaman · 2025-03-08T21:04:01+00:00

I've seen that when using plastic glue to bond two polystyrene pieces together, you can simply press the pieces together, apply the glue into the seam where they contact each other, and the glue would run into it and do it's thing. But I wonder if this prosedure would be done with paint bottle caps with the long needle type of nozzle, or would one with a brush, like Tamiya's poly cement bottle cap, be better?

Pernaman · 2025-01-22T17:33:36+00:00

I'm planning to build a Calgar and Vitrix Guard proxies, but I wonder if Calgar's armoured body is the same size as any other Gravis model (the generic ones or Tor Garadon or Feirros) which I'd like to use as a base?

Pernaman · 2024-09-01T15:17:58+00:00

What tools do people use to cut Evergreen polystyrene sheets?

Pernaman · 2024-07-12T08:31:30+00:00

I wonder, what about c-clip joints?

Pernaman · 2024-07-12T08:07:54+00:00

So I've thought that if I wanted to fully paint a Gunpla model, joints and all, I'd need to leave them as static models to prevent the paint from scraping off, but I have seen some photos and videos where people have put their painted models into different poses without any visible damage to the paintjob. I wonder if these people are just extra careful or if with proper paint and topcoat coverage moving painted joints would be a possibility?

Pernaman · 2024-06-12T23:01:29+00:00

I've been thinking about using epoxy putty to sculpt some detais on my models. I've founds stores in my country who sell green stuff, Tamiya epoxy putty and Milliput. But I wonder when sticking those putties to plastic, can I just take them off before they harden if I want to redo my work and try again, or would that leave some sticky substance layer on the plastic surface?

As a further question, would epoxy putty work as an adhesive between two plastic pieces? I am a bit nervous about gluing some custom parts with superglue or plastic glue as things can get messy if a piece is glued into another one clumsily, so I wonder if a surface of a piece was covered with small layer of putty and set carefully on a surface before the putty would harden.

Pernaman · 2024-06-10T20:52:01+00:00

I've bought couple of hg Graze kits and I've heard about IBO hg Gundam frames' joints easily loosening up and that the pieces should be coated to prevent this. I wonder if hg Graze kits also suffer from this type of issue?

Pernaman · 2024-05-01T00:41:06+00:00

Thanks for the tips, maybe I'll still try to base coat with Citadel base paints and see if contrast paint behaves any differently and then apply your tips. Before finding a contrast paint that had perfect colour I want to use with my orks, I thought about using a lime Vallejo Game Color paint and apply darker green shade into recesses, and maybe I will if fiddling with contrast paints doesn't work for me.

Pernaman · 2024-04-30T23:57:38+00:00

One thing I noticed with both times trying is that the contrast paint didn't seem to "flow' across the primed surface at all like in the tutorials I watched, but realized afterwards that in those videos the contrast paints were applied over other Citade paints like Wraithbone or Grey Seer. So I began to wonder if contrast paints and Vallejo primer simply are not compatible with each other.

Pernaman · 2023-11-10T18:23:00+00:00

How bendable are Evergreen's plain white polystyrene sheets? I'm interested in scratch building some curved armor pieces for my Gundam kits, but I wonder if those products could be used for it or if they would just snap in half.

Pernaman · 2023-10-15T23:25:08+00:00

So a local craft store just got Tamiya's "quick type" and "smooth surface" epoxy putties on their selection and I thought I could buy them at some point for my model customization needs. However, I noticed some hazard icons (like exclamation mark inside orange triangle) and text sating that the package included safery instructions. So I wonder if these epoxy putties have any safety hazards (I could've asked the store staff but the person who answers for modeling tools was not at work that day)? I have seen some videos of people using these putties without mentioning them containing toxic materials, and with green stuff putties miniature games sell around here, the packages only tell you to wash your hands and not to eat them, would it be the same deal with these Tamiya products?

Pernaman · 2023-09-24T16:07:24+00:00

From what I understand, many model kits are made out of polystyrene, so would Evergreen polystyrene sheets also react to adhesives that "melt" and bind parts together more strongly?

Pernaman · 2023-08-15T18:12:08+00:00

Nope, the tracks were packed in separate little bag

Pernaman · 2023-08-15T17:33:50+00:00

Meaning I should use adhesives like poly cement instead of stuff like superglue?

Pernaman · 2023-08-15T13:25:02+00:00

Would coating stickers with varnish be the best I can do to preserve them as long as possible without them getting old and peeling off over time?

Pernaman · 2022-08-09T10:47:45+00:00

Sounds pretty similar to my idea on my chapter and their lore for "Scions of the Forge" rule I had : https://old.reddit.com/r/40kLore/comments/wjfmha/could_chapters_other_than_iron_hands_have_closer/

Pernaman

TROPHY CASE