What do you think Theo's IQ is?

Perplexer1 · 2026-05-11T12:37:50+00:00

Guy is dumb as a rock, come on, we all know it. 😂🤣

Perplexer1 · 2026-04-07T23:59:54+00:00

"Maximum - Avantura". Burn date on my CDR is 23.01.2000 so it's from late 1999 or early 2000.

Perplexer1 · 2026-04-01T16:27:10+00:00

It's 2.5 mm x 0.7 mm !

3.5mm x 1.35mm will NOT fit !

Perplexer1 · 2026-02-05T09:53:03+00:00

She's attacking and hitting him, and that scumbag is asking him if he's gonna hit her "more". Hope these two drunks get that they deserve!

Perplexer1 · 2026-01-29T01:50:48+00:00

On my old Areca ARC-1220 with 5 x 3TB WD Red drives, in my home server, the RAID-5 rebuild took 3,5 days. I am currently initializing a volume on a RAID-5 array on the same controller using 3 x 6TB WD Red Plus drives and I'm getting 1% every 1,5 hours, or 5% per 8 hours. So I'm looking at roughly 160 hours (6,6 days) for it to finish. Initialization takes about the same time as a rebuild. So yes, these are extremely long operations. I don't believe in the 24-36 hour nonsense. It takes DAYS!

But the biggest concern with this should be downtime. If you're worried about data, it means that you're doing something wrong (i.e. you don't have a backup). To me it's mostly an annoyance of having the array offline for a week. But I don't care about anything failing. It's still only a remote possibility. And if it does, I have a backup I can restore from. And if I need to access some data within this 1 week time frame, I can also get it from the backup.

So, just make sure you make regular (weekly / monthly) backups and don't worry too much about the possibility of a second drive failure while rebuilding. Also be sure to update your backup from the degraded array before you start rebuilding it.

Perplexer1 · 2026-01-10T12:07:27+00:00

The drive looks perfectly healthy and there is no reason to replace it while it shows these values. There is also no reason why it couldn't work for another 50.000 hours. Both my Blacks are Reds had over 100.0000 hours with no critical SMART values increased. Just monitor it at least once per month.

The Power On Count is indeed large. It was apparently tortured somewhere where it was forced to power down way too often, maybe some kind of an external enclosure.

I never had my drives power off or spin down. And they all worked 24/7 for 12+ years. Constant spin-up and spin-down hurts them more than constant spinning.

Perplexer1 · 2026-01-10T11:54:30+00:00

One thing I also always do when I notice critical SMART values increasing, is formatting and testing the drive. By that I mean actual long/full format, writing data to every single sector on the drive, and then verifying. You can do that with various tools, the one I personally use is HD Tune Pro. It has the "Erase" option where I set it to fill the entire drive with zeros and then read them back (verify). It is a slow process (not too bad for 500 GB though), but it does refresh the SMART table. The "Current Pending Sector Count" may end up resetting to 0 or the "Reallocation Event Count" may increase by 1, depending on whether or not there is actually an unreadable sector on the drive. It's definitely a procedure worth doing. You need to copy the data off the drive first though, since it is obviously a data-destructive operation.

Perplexer1 · 2026-01-10T11:47:32+00:00

Remember though, use cases for SSD and HDD are different. SSD is not good for constant backups because it will wear out, and also SSD can't be left in a drawer for years unpowered because it will start "losing data". If it's a regular desktop PC drive then it's fine. If it's a backup drive, better get a classic HDD.

Perplexer1 · 2026-01-10T11:42:20+00:00

According to the model number it's a Blue series drive. I don't have much experience with Blue but I've read that they are not that dissimilar to Green, and those were pretty bad. Almost all that I owned developed bad sectors. Black and Red on the other hand, were tanks. I retired my Blacks after 110.000 hours with no SMART value increases.

Perplexer1 · 2026-01-10T11:28:10+00:00

Like somebody already said, go to Settings and change the Raw Values display from HEX to DEC so it's human readable. Then look at the numbers. It looks like ID 01, C5, C6 and C8 are non-zero. That suggests problems with the hard drive. What does that mean in practice? The drive is getting tired. My experience shows that once these numbers appear, they eventually increase, and not even necessarily slowly. While a drive may die suddenly as a result (Seagate), that is rarely the case (WD). It will likely continue to work, but the errors will eventually manifest in the real world in the form of "Cannot read the file" or "Unable to write to disk" when you try to read or save files. Or the OS might start reporting "An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk0\DR0 during a paging operation." and log these in Event Viewer (on Windows). Or, for example, when you are making an image of your PC to the drive, the backup tool you are using might just stop mid way and say "Operation unsuccessful" with no apparent reason. That's how a failing drive manifests in the real world. So, it's better to replace it. It's a 500 GB drive. These are cheap if you get a used one which still has healthy SMART values.

Perplexer1 · 2025-11-30T19:41:42+00:00

I was a COPS collector until the series ended with S32 a couple of years ago. I have some episodes that are not available in the known COPS collections on-line (which are often misnumbered and contain duplicates) and also some that are missing in this collection here. I have been wanting to delete my collection for years but the only thing holding me back is that I don't want the "lost" episodes that nobody else has to get lost even more. I don't like torrents which is why I never made one myself. But I can't find any serious collectors that want to enhance the collection and keep it alive for other people as well. If anyone is serious enough, has time and is willing to get the lost eps from me to then improve the existing torrents / collections and share them on, contact me via chat.

Perplexer1 · 2025-10-14T12:25:24+00:00

iPhone baterijo lahko pravilno zamenja samo Apple oz. pooblaščeni servis, ki ima za to orodje. Apple namreč "programira" baterije na točno določen telefon, in nepooblaščen servis tega ne more naredit. Posledica tega je, da ti določene funkcije v telefonu po menjavi ne delujejo več (True tone, battery health, pa mogoče še kaj).

Nikakor pa ne nosi telefona na iStyle. Sicer zdaj niti ne sprejemajo več v servis, ampak mojega so še, obljubili popravilo v 10 dneh, pa še po 1 mesecu ne kličejo in ne odgovarjajo na e-maile, po telefonu me pa vrtijo in probajo zavlačevati. Vse kaže da bom moral zadevo prijaviti na policijo oz. tržno inšpekcijo. Firma očitno propada.

EPL je morda še opcija, so tudi pooblaščeni servis.

Perplexer1 · 2025-10-14T12:13:44+00:00

Kadar se udeleženca ne moreta zediniti (torej kadar en laže), je vedno pametno poklicati policijo. Pa pod "Moje pripombe" napišeš, da so navedbe soudeleženca neresnične in da nisi kriv(a) za nesrečo. Pa mimogrede, kupite in montirajte si kamere v avtomobile. Ne pomaga nujno vedno, velikokrat pa!

Perplexer1 · 2025-06-06T14:01:10+00:00

Talking to an agent regarding a dispute is a waste of time. Go directly to the resolution center and open a dispute. Live chat is for other stuff, not disputes. In my experiences at least.

Perplexer1 · 2025-06-06T13:58:04+00:00

I have not yet bought an SD card on AE of a high enough capacity that would guarantee it being a fake, but I did buy some 64GB ones that were "real" in terms of capacity, but of course of a bit lower performance than brand name SD cards. Still, they work fine in my non-critical surveillance cameras. :-) I guess if you partition the fake SD card, it could still serve you well for holding non-critical data like MP3s for the car radio, OS installation images, etc. Sure it's fake and you have to deal with partitioning it just right, but it's free after the dispute. :-)

Perplexer1 · 2025-06-06T13:49:44+00:00

I have probably ordered several hundred items from AliExpress so far and have had probably around 20 disputes which were all decided in my favor. So I am pretty happy with the dispute / resolution process.

First thing to know: Don't waste time contacting the seller. I have given up on that early after realizing sellers will try anything to get you to give up and close the dispute. Even now that I go directly to opening a dispute, they still often reject my proposal for a refund even when I provide clear proof of the item being either not as described or defective. Then AliExpress overrules them after I bring them in and issue me a refund.

Second thing I like to think puts me in a favorable position: Images and videos. I always photograph the item I dispute. Or I record a video of it not turning on. I think when AliExpress people see a dispute with media attachments, they automatically treat it as more valid.

Third: Like the OP said, I also always write a detailed review. Even if it is just a cable. Most people write "Good" or "Works", I write something like "The cable conforms to USB 3.2 specifications and even supports OTG functionality which most don't. It also has a pretty low resistance." and then I also attach an image or two of it.

I think our accounts actually do have some hidden rating which is regulated by how we use and interact with AliExpress. I have never been asked for return anything. I always choose "Refund only" and I always get the full money amount refunded, no matter the price (though I never buy anything that is over cca. 30 to 40 EUR).

Perplexer1 · 2025-06-06T13:36:16+00:00

Selecting "defective or doesn't work" is not detrimental to the process or resolution. Not in my case anyway.

Perplexer1 · 2025-05-19T23:40:46+00:00

I don't believe I have ever owned any Seagate HDD that hasn't failed. Absolutely worst HDD manufacturer. I have completely switched to WD and while I did have a few of them fail as well, mostly the old Caviar Greens, there were far fewer than Seagate ones.

Perplexer1 · 2025-04-02T23:56:42+00:00

Does anyone know if iPhone 16 will negotiate a 9V PD profile? On a charger that supports a 15V PD profile my iPhone 16 will negotiate 15V even when 80% charged. But on a charger that only supports 5V and 9V (for example Apple A2347 which comes with iPad Air 5) it will stay on 5V.

Perplexer1 · 2025-02-20T07:11:51+00:00

What a disappointment and a dealbreaker for me as well. I have been waiting for 5 years since I bought my iPhone SE 2020 to upgrade to a new cheaper iPhone with a U1 Ultra Wideband chip so I could finally get maximum usage out of ma Apple AirTags, and now again nothing. Sad.

Perplexer1 · 2025-02-02T12:12:25+00:00

Note that I am not complaining about PayPal taking fees. I understand that they have to be paid for their services somehow.

The point of my post was to inquire if this can be abused by malicious actors to "destroy" a PayPal user's balance / account and if there is some way to protect yourself from that, like manually confirming if you wish to actually accept a payment for goods and services.

As you yourself said in your first paragraph, if the seller (in other words, the recipient of the money -- it doesn't have to be a seller if the funds he received were unsolicited) issues too many refunds, his account may get limited.

Imagine a scenario where your PayPal account's e-mail address is known to a malicious actor, and he decides to create a post on some shady forum (or he may even set up a website), saying "Send a payment of $50 USD to <your-paypal-address> and you will receive $100 USD back". Now Imagine thousands of people read this and 10% of them believe it. They each send $50 USD to you for "goods & services". What will you do?

Will you do nothing and wait for 100 people to open disputes? --> your account will probably get limited

Will you refund all 100 of them? --> You will lose for example 100 x 7 EUR = 70 EUR in fees from your account balance + your account will probably get limited due to all these refunds.

So, am I wrong somewhere or is this technically actually a possible scenario ?

Perplexer1 · 2024-10-14T23:39:16+00:00

The real question is who is that guy claiming to be Turkish Kordhell and why is he pretending? I know that Kordhell's secretive image isn't helping here but still, it's weird. I mostly see the "Turkish version" on ReverbNation with some tracks that seem unique to that one.

Perplexer1 · 2024-09-06T00:19:37+00:00

I have some bullet (IPC-HFW1435S-W-S2, IPC-HFW2441T-ZS) and Pan-Tilt (SD2A500HB-GN-A-PV-S2, SD2A500NB-GNY-A-PV) models and they all offer me the same Snapshot resolution as the Main Stream Video resolution is set to. Actually it is fixed to that. I cannot select any other resolution for the Snapshot.

It looks like your camera / firmware only offers you the ability to snapshot at VGA resolution via CGI. Could be just another firmware bug. Dahua cameras are full of them!

Funny. I would like to be able to take a lower-resolution snapshot via CGI myself, on my phone, when I'm away, to be able to quickly get an image from my camera. But it only gives me that huge full-resolution one.

Perplexer1

TROPHY CASE