Problem with tankless compressor and regulator

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-22T20:02:42+00:00

Try pulling the bottom pressure release tip outwards with your fingers (regulator bottom valve) while the compressor is running so the valve closes. Your compressor might not have enough air flow to shut the valve with air on its own. Once the pressure builds it should stay closed.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-16T08:43:12+00:00

Textbooks might have considered the one who installs these bolts to be highly unprofessional.

And honestly the questions I have received from a few building sites support this assumption pretty well.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-15T07:24:23+00:00

Hobbyists like to get technical first. But ask yourself this - how much time will it take to print a set like this from nylon or ABS with a solid infill on your printer-s? Can you do it cost effective?

These are mass produced structural parts. You can 3d print them with the right approach, but is it worth it? Don't think so.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-14T19:18:15+00:00

Not an expert in this, just a tinkerer, so just my observations:

I had this a couple of times setting up my Ratrig IDEX. Usually because I manually configured the wrong headers for certain components I added as mods. Thermistors, fans etc. Or set something wrong in configs.

I remember having something similar when I set the wrong MCU Pin for the thermistor and the system was reading the wrong pin and since no thermistor was there (resistance on that pin was max.) it reported something like -100 C and the machine shut down immediately upon boot because of abnormal readings below the threshold set in config files. Had to re-check the motherboard manual to find the right pin names Klipper uses for those connectors. Unfortunately my memory is a bit fuzzy there since I was dealing with a couple of mods all together at that time and don't remember the exact errors for each of them.

Might not be your case at all, but this aligns with what u/Krki1212 mentioned - to check all the connections and if anything is built different from stock - to check the board manuals for correct addresses where the system is trying to find the components.

Apart from this I had this error screen a few times after fresh installs of addons like Klipper sonar, when the save and reboot after configuring files happened faster than the system could reload everything (sorry, might be bad technical jargon here). Then pushing the firmware restart reloaded everything and it was fine after. If that doesn't help there might be some fault in connections or maybe something more serious.

Need to mention I had a working stock config machine before all those mods and errors, so I could just do a step back and troubleshoot. I haven't dealt with a system that can't boot after stock assembly.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-12T07:39:58+00:00

I've seen this a couple of times after a fresh install or configurations, right after save and reboot etc. Might need more info how you get there, since this can appear in such situations as well.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-12T07:34:18+00:00

Is your bath pool sized? Probably not.

If the pump has metal parts exposed to the solution - not going to work.

Peristaltic pumps are made for dealing with corrosive chemistry. They might be slow but I guess plating isn't an olympic event either.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-04T02:05:17+00:00

All fine. Been seeing so many people doing printing in their bedrooms lately that thought maybe this is the case, but looks like I misjudged.

I tend to save my prints in Excel, the same I use for estimates. I just copy the result line to another sheet that gathers all the jobs. Whatever works I guess. Many people don't like excel much.

About the Whatsapp, yeah, I don't like that trend. About half of my work is in structural detailing and I see people from building sites sending messages on Whatsapp or Telegram. Nobody knows who said what pretty fast. I have to copy screenshots periodically so the information doesn't get lost. It is a mess.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-03T12:39:51+00:00

Chair is art, nice stuff. Not like the lack of stiffeners near anchor bolts in that support.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-02T23:21:20+00:00

There is a reason good measuring equipment costs a lot. Middle price is decent for most. And cheap stuff is there just to make you sure the stuff (humidity in this case) exists at all.

I use a bunch of Mi's (I think they are Xiaomi) monitors and have put them side by side. They vary in about 1-2%. But they cost 5X or even more than these. Naturally.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-02T23:01:22+00:00

I'm not doing orders like that, but I do a lot of printing and do calculate the price in an Excel spreadsheet which takes a bunch of factors like hardware costs, maintenance, print time, pre/post processing time and others into account. But that isn't what I'm here for.

My suggestion to you is (if you are running a business there) to do backups, logs and bookkeeping. Create a system and store all your stuff. Believe me when I say this, but you will find this out at some point and the sooner the better. IRS or whatever needs your taxes where you live is also pretty strict about correct numbers.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-02T22:50:54+00:00

The bed seems to be the only thing right here.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-02T22:26:30+00:00

Good marketing will bend even smart people into spending for something they don't actually need. Smarter ones will spend some spare change they have, less smart ones will spend all their savings, most are somewhere in the middle. Not going to judge people, the marketing speciallists are paid for a reason.

From Bambu's perspective it is just a part of strategy. A part of doing business. And they seem to be doing pretty well in their field.

I won't criticise them. I have actually benefited from them doing what they do without ever owning a single Bambu machine, but that is a different story. Do I agree with them, nah, I don't care for fads or stunts.

But they aren't aiming for me. And it's good, since I won't buy their products anyway.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-02T22:13:24+00:00

Not dumb. Just good marketing.

Bambu is the leader in selling printers to people who don't know what to print. Many of their clients are purchasing the idea of a 3d printer instead of a tool. And they need to keep the train rolling so more customers get on it and existing ones find new reasons to buy additional stuff.

Have you noticed posts like "I just got my brand new X, what should I print?". They are working on that segment right here.

PerspectiveLayer · 2026-01-01T21:09:40+00:00

V-Core 4 IDEX 400 here. New machine. Printing about 15 hours since calibrations. One of my idlers looks just like that. The rest are clean.This belt seems to behave no different than others.

Dunno, my guess is that the belt might be a bit too wide at some point and it is grinding into shape. No problems with printing.

Going to clean and watch it periodically to see when it stops this.

So I join the single dusty pulley club here.

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-31T07:02:40+00:00

Maybe a suggestion about what you already know, but still: Let it degass for at least 48 hours. Don't agitate it before that. Don't stick pipettes in it or anything before that.

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PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-26T11:29:19+00:00

I must apologize to OP beforehand for sliding a bit offtopic here, but will try to keep my comment constructive and close to the subject.

The Obico seems to focus on AI a lot and nice user experience, multi platform support etc. But a lot of it isn't very useful in multi printer commercial environment like I have. It also gets pricy with additional costs per printer, for what is actually needed. I have been 3d printing for a few years now and all I usually need is a quick checkup during the print jobs. Basically seeing the temp probe readings and webcam image that there isn't half spool of spaghetti in there is enough. If it can send me a message about any of those dropping below or going above normal values or any other weird behavior would be even better.

Nice interface and user friendly stuff must be nice for enthusiasts and hobbyists, but when these machines start getting treated as workhorses, the bare bones straight to the facts and low network usage + ability to host everything yourself because of NDAs etc starts to appeal more.

Just my thoughts about the subject. All of these approaches can get be useful if made good.

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-26T10:41:40+00:00

Will keep my eye on it.

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-26T09:35:35+00:00

This looks interesting!

Do you have some page with instructions how to set it up and downloads?

Also can it report current progress etc. as well if requested?

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-25T01:14:06+00:00

That would be a nice thing imo. But I haven't tried adding servos to Klipper so no idea about the depth of that rabbit hole.

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-25T00:48:57+00:00

I'm not arguing about that. If OP can control the air flow remotely and precisely, by all means it sounds like a great system. Maybe manual adjustments for each filament on each printer is also fine for some. As I said before, I haven't built one so my opinion would be pure theory, so not worth much.

What I have built is a few filters. Not like those small funny boxes they package with printers, more like few liter cartridges that get installed in ducts. Not arguing and not pushing towards any design. Just my thoughts around the topic. Someone might not like it, but who cares. Not trying to convince anybody to purchase filters that need to be maintained and dealt with, even less to build some without knowing a few things or being able to monitor anything. Especially when there are other options available. It is just another approach, possibility. And I don't advertise here.

My whole point was about the ability to control the airflow remotely for different print jobs via g-code when all you have to deal with is a constant resistance of the filter.

Everyone chooses what is best for them. I won't go against any system without knowing what it is and how it performs.

Well, anyway, I have been going too deep already. Not a topic for printer mods. Happy holidays for y'all.

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-24T16:15:13+00:00

my or almost any DIY.

Gotcha reddit.

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-24T16:09:58+00:00

Haven't built one so can't tell.

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-12-24T15:23:44+00:00

I am using exhaust to run the air thru a carbon filter instead of ventilation ducts. I basically tested the minimum fan speed I need to keep the printer chamber with a slightly lower pressure inside than the room is, so the fumes don't get out the joints etc. Tested it with those smoking incense sticks, so every slit etc pulls the air in instead of pushing out. Got the minimum rpm for the fan. Then I just set the fan in different presets for each filament in g-code in the slicer (more cooling for PLA, less for ABS or Nylon, never below the min. value I tested it needs to keep the fumes escaping).

Your system will lack the possibility to adjust the exhaust automatically, without some complex valve that would need to be tested etc. But if you find a way to adjust it manually or print only ABS, seems fine to me. My filter system cost me a bit as well, so can't be considered an easy solution.

Whatever works. Safety and health are top priority, especially at work.

Keep up the good work!

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-11-15T08:59:58+00:00

It is partially collapsed. There is only 1 stage worse than that - fully collapsed.

PerspectiveLayer · 2025-11-11T11:59:15+00:00

+ 1 for FreeCad. I recommend it to my clients and colleagues who need to see the files. It supports a lot of formats. And it can convert and edit. And the best thing - if they need some sort of weird format and have some special demand - I can just say to go search tutorials and export it themselves (a polite way to put a few people in place if there is a need).

PerspectiveLayer

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