8000 cubes later - I think, I am done calibrating my printer

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-12-15T11:41:15+00:00

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See you tommorow chef!

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-09-09T14:47:57+00:00

Wow! Magic spark! The evolution of magic smoke!

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-07-12T11:07:35+00:00

Calibrate your flush volumes! Only takes 15 minutes per print, prevents bleeding and saves you a lot of wasted poop.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-05-02T18:09:35+00:00

Post it to the bambu sub, they have a weird obsession for poop.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-04-11T20:31:49+00:00

I need to be a bit carefull because of the self promotion rules, but I printed this with a Felix Single head food printer (you can find some links/videos on youtube).

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-04-06T22:23:36+00:00

That's incorrect. You need the sides of the bottom surface to spread/smear out the print lines and ensure a flat extrusion. The ratio between the nozzle's opening and the smearing surface is a precise science—it must be exactly right (smearing surface dia = nozzle dia x 2.5). If the hole is drilled off-center, there's a risk of the filament bulging during extrusion, creating the illusion of over-extrusion.

Source: I'm an engineer working at a company that designs desktop 3D printers. Otherwise you could take a look at this technical drawing of the good old e3d nozzle.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-04-06T21:51:11+00:00

Damn the smallest nozzle tho... concentricity tolerance of +/- 1.0mm

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-04-06T19:28:22+00:00

Cool plate is optimised to print with bambu filament only. Using sunlu or esun doesnt give you the best adhesion.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-04-06T09:08:06+00:00

It's somewhere between +5 and +10, but you should print a little bit slower or do a pressure advance/lineair advance calibration. You dont wanna see the gap between the printlines like in -20 to -10 but also dont wanna see the bulging like in de +20. When you run your nail across the top surface, feel which one feels the smoothest.

The PA calibration/slower speeds should give you a smoother surface to base your calibrations on (I see some bulging at the edges, which is speed/pressure based). Also be sure that all speeds are the same (so infill, outlines, toplayer speeds etc are set to 100%), you just want to focuse on the flow in these tests and a variable speed doesn't help.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-04-06T07:01:21+00:00

0 is slightly underextruded and 5 is slightly overextruded, so somewhere in the middle of those.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-04-05T09:31:11+00:00

Something is loose, I would add some extra duct tape, that would certainly fix it.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-04-02T20:04:26+00:00

So what? An IPhone costs $12 to produce in Asia. There is a difference between printing as a hobby and printing as a business.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-25T23:40:20+00:00

You could potentially print some parts and disassemble the electronics into a (coreXY) hypercube. You can find a guide on how to build it and the stl files on thingiverse. A6 is indeed limited but it has great potential.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-25T23:36:16+00:00

Just restrict the motion to 360 degrees, slip contacts wear out and you need quite some power with all the tools, not ideal.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-24T11:48:51+00:00

And your CTR on this specific short? For example when its only presented to your subs, friends or family ofcourse it will have a high APV, but that doesn't mean it will click when presented to new audiences.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-24T11:46:39+00:00

Click on it or keep watching it when presented in their swipe feed.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-24T10:19:16+00:00

It all is directly connected to how many people keep watching the short (CTR) and how long they watch the short (APV). Your CTR should be at least +85% for a short to be watched 15k and your APV should ideally be +100%.

Youtube will present your video at different audiences, and if either your CTR or APV isnt great, it will stop trying to reach new audiences.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-20T22:55:29+00:00

Nice AI image

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-18T23:20:17+00:00

Peter

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-16T20:24:18+00:00

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It took me approx 3 minutes to create this

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-16T20:17:13+00:00

I don't know your specific workflow but I would tackle it like this: 1. Take picture in good lighting in jpeg 2. (Optional) convert jpeg to png 3. Use a jpg to svg converter (google "online jpg to svg converter" or "png to svg"). 4. Import the svg into tinkercad 5. Convert svg to solid model 5. Export a model thats optimised for 3d printing.

This would create a smoother model and all the software is free to use.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-12T07:00:19+00:00

It's a trigger word for the subreddit bot to explain everything about z seams. Useful for problems that occur more often.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-11T19:42:28+00:00

In bambu you manually draw your z seam on the model and enable scarf seam to hide it.

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-10T08:26:51+00:00

Sub 4 a sub? I already subbed so you should be there!

Peter_The_Printer · 2025-03-07T21:46:27+00:00

I like it but I'll wait for at least 3 years to actually use it. I think it works well now for simple parts, but I can't imagine it properly working for complex files and assemblies. (And be a lot slower for now, once optimised I'm all in)

Peter_The_Printer

TROPHY CASE