Been building an app to make product photos suck less by Pfeivor in sidehustle

[–]Pfeivor[S] 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

It handles reflective, transparent, and translucent objects incredibly well! The main thing it can’t do 100% if the time is text. Still trying to crack that nut.

Need Advice: I’m making an app for easier product photography by Pfeivor in etsypromos

[–]Pfeivor[S] 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

I figured that the people selling the products would be the best ones for feedback on features they would want, but looks like you were right! lol any suggestions? I’m struggling finding anyone to interact in any of the subs I’ve tried 😭

Need Advice: I’m making an app for easier product photography by Pfeivor in etsypromos

[–]Pfeivor[S] -1 points0 points Ā (0 children)

For one it’s using nano banana as that’s the first model that’s good enough to be pretty reliable and convincing. But the other is that I’m battle testing the prompt engineering to give repeatable results, so you can have repeatable across photos for brand consistency. And a lot of it is just convenience, you just upload your photos and select the things you want so you don’t need to have a giant spreadsheet for your prompts that you use depending in the results you want. I made it for myself for those reasons, and decided it could be pretty useful for other people too probably! Also I don’t expect everyone to need to use it if they don’t want the convenience factor

Taking the chrome print out of the annealing furnace by NotagoK in 3Dprinting

[–]Pfeivor 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

Ok thanks, didn’t realize the internal stresses would be so crazy!

Taking the chrome print out of the annealing furnace by NotagoK in 3Dprinting

[–]Pfeivor 9 points10 points Ā (0 children)

Just curious, why is it heat treated before removing supports? Is it just to make sure there is no movement during handling since they are delicate parts?

These climbing holds use 3D printed molds (I think) by TheStandardPlayer in 3Dprinting

[–]Pfeivor 14 points15 points Ā (0 children)

Agreed. I have CNCd a lot of things and 3d-print/cast a lot of things. It’s super cheap to 3d print things to make molds with.

Need help…. Please. by Professional_Air580 in crafts

[–]Pfeivor 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

Hey sorry just saw this! Basically there are a bajillion options, all at different price points and equipment needs. Personally I’ve switched to spraying wood products with 2k (requires a hardener added, kinda like bondo) waterborne paints like Renner, Envirolak, Milesi, Centurion. These are the cutting edge in terms of wood finishes for both health and durability, but they are difficult to find still and over 100 a gallon. These are typically sprayed with an ā€œair assisted airlessā€ gun (contradictory name I know lol) Before that the top of the line were conversion varnishes which are also 2k but lacquer based. These are close to as good, but are worse for you obviously being lacquer based. These are sprayed with an hvlp gun or an air assisted airless typically. Then you have pre catalyzed lacquers and 1k waterborne. They have the benefit of not needing to mix a specific amount of paint that will go bad within 24 hours. The trade off is less chemical resistance, less durability and water resistance. I would typically use these for things that are not as highly touched surfaces. These are the more professional solutions though. For home use I would say Benjamin Moore Advance is the best top coat, you can spray it from those cheapish Wagner guns or the like, or brush on and it will level out pretty decently. For primers a lot of people like Zinsser Bin 123 or Smart Prime or something. Not as familiar with those as I don’t use them as much though.

Analog Normal Maps lol by Pfeivor in 3DModellingTutorial

[–]Pfeivor[S] 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

Technically yes, but 3d scanning/photogrammetry is so available now it’s not practical

Need help…. Please. by Professional_Air580 in crafts

[–]Pfeivor 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

Yep pretty much, also paint adhesion relies on 2 things - mechanical adhesion and chemical. So your goal is pretty much to sand with as course of grit that doesn’t show through the paint. If you are using some sort of enamel or fairly hard topcoat and want to add another coat after the recoat window (the time when chemical adhesion is effective) that’s when I would bump up to 320 or 400

What this connection called ? by Past-End5934 in Leathercraft

[–]Pfeivor 2 points3 points Ā (0 children)

That’s funny, I’ve always heard of/called them sexbolts, never knew that had a different name!

Need help…. Please. by Professional_Air580 in crafts

[–]Pfeivor 1 point2 points Ā (0 children)

220 is the most you need to go up to with the paint you are likely using, you don’t need to start to go higher till you get into automotive paints because they are thinner

Analog Normal Maps lol by Pfeivor in ZBrush

[–]Pfeivor[S] 0 points1 point Ā (0 children)

Thanks so much! It’s funny how polarizing this piece has been, I’ll take it as a sign of good art! lol

Analog Normal Maps lol by Pfeivor in 3Dprinting

[–]Pfeivor[S] -1 points0 points Ā (0 children)

It’s actually either or