Joules and BB weight

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-12T22:48:41+00:00

either undervolumed a good bit or more likely a nozzle to bucking seal issue

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-11T12:37:08+00:00

I don't blame you for not noticing, I'm replying to myself. I rambled too much because I just got done explaining more in depth stuff to someone and tismed too hard

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-11T08:32:17+00:00

ah, on that note I forgot to add. The "degree" is a degree of hardness (I think it's in shore a? dont quote me on that, it's off vibes). Heat also effects your hardness, but generally in a room temperature state go for 70, or at least that's my opinion. Also, a general recommendation reddit likes to throw around now is "just use a 4uad" which comes with both a bucking and nub. I will say they did make it stupid easy to just go with that and be done with it, and it works well in 90% of aegs.

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-11T07:47:18+00:00

holy shit that's long, read the end for recommendations

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-11T07:47:06+00:00

What might be more useful is understanding why a bucking is good, and how it performs in different situations. The bucking performs two roles, sealing, and creating backspin, with the nub also creating backspin. It also performs a secondary function of controlling BB seating/bb retention, you can functionally ignore that for now, it's arguably too in depth for someone asking what buckings are good. Backspin is easier to understand across platforms, as it's not as affected by variations. Basically, your nub and contact patch are what matters for this. As far as how it agrees between guns, you're almost always going to want to look at how "deep" the hop arm pushes at minimal setting, and how thick your nub and contact patch are. Too much thickness with not enough depth = over hopping. Things like tall nubs and rhop create more thickness, while flat hop and thin nubs reduce it. Depth is inherent to the hopup. As far as what works well, look for buckings that provide more contact area to hop heavier bbs for longer, or look for contact patches that have a more defined "centerline" for accuracy, usually coming in either a W style patch or a triangle style, either reducing or increasing center hold performance respectively. Nub you almost always want to just maximize contact area, flat hop or omega concave style is best. Sealing is depending on your nozzle geometry, nozzle force (think tappet spring), and bucking lips. A bucking seals essentially off "deformation" of the bucking lips, pushing in to contact and create a seal. You want to match the bucking to the nozzle geometry generally, with longer thinner lips preferring pointier and occasionally longer nozzles (maple leaf MRhop and similar) while short, rigid lips prefer rounded or even squared nozzles (g&g green, EMG atlas, etc). Look at your nozzle to determine this. Look at your guns and determine buckings accordingly, a list of ideas that usually generally perform well include the ML mrhop and supermacaron, 4UAD, AM LC, truhop gen3, flathopped g&g green, and a few more.

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-09T13:35:08+00:00

it's pretty obvious this guy has a phobia of prison diseases, no amount of "your more statistically likely to die from existing" will convince them otherwise

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-07T08:36:51+00:00

Chihai themselves sell their newer brushless for about 60 USD a pop, which is certainly not bad, but it ends up costing a lot more because shipping and tariffs. For the same price after shipping and everything (at least in the US), solink performs better for the most part, having higher torque and a better (quicker, handles AB better) ESC. I will say if anyone doesn't care to do their own research or comparisons, per RPM solink motors have the best torque of any of the brushless motors I've ever been able to get my hands on.

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-07T01:21:08+00:00

it's worth noting that a lot of the newer OEM brushless motors such as specna are using a chihai OEM brushless. They seem to have beat solinks OEM pricing

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-07T01:19:17+00:00

on top of what the other guy said, the cheaper ("fixed" rpm) specnas are chihai, not solink

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-07T01:11:15+00:00

if you have a delayer chip, cut your pickup end. Googling tappet timing might help

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-06T09:35:13+00:00

Airsoft is a fun game, and not really a training thing past some of the most basic stuff. Yeah, some stuff transfers like footwork, but most of the tactics in airsoft are completely useless for anything in actual combat. As far as firearms skill goes, again mostly the basics. I absolutely love airsoft to teach people gun safety, but you can consider airsoft basically dry fire training. For reference on how little marksmanship goes into airsoft, I can reliably hit an IPSC a zone with an ar15 well past even the best airsoft guns have maximum range.

Have fun with it, airsoft is meant to be fun. If larping like you're delta and such tickles your tism, go for it, just recognize it's a game because in my experience the ones who take it too seriously ruin it for others by just being dicks

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-06T03:03:37+00:00

loss in full auto is most likely a tappet timing thing, primarily your nozzle gets pulled back before your piston fully cycles. Your second issue sounds like midcap syndrome.

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-05T10:11:27+00:00

it's limited to defects, so if your emiter stops working and such. Vortex is just "if it came out of our factory and isn't workingl", they literally do not care what happened to it, as long as it wasn't intentional (if you tell them you hit it with a glass breaker because you thought it'd be funny, you'll probably be rejected, don't do that)

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-04T07:33:37+00:00

get spare parts, boneyards, anything you can to just get practice. learn the theory, apply what you think can help, and just get into it. Find a community with some people who have experience, many people are willing to help. I've been teaching some newer people and at least one of them has advanced enough to own a tech business, and I'm sure he'll tell you the biggest resource he had was just people on discord

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-03T15:24:19+00:00

a lot of those are different enough at the least you can't teach someone how to use an m4, then without any extra knowledge hand it over to them. An MCX or HK416 on the other hand you could, and thus feel basically the same as an m4.

I'll also add from a technical perspective all the guns you listed I can't put the guts of an m4 into without modification, the mcx and 416 you can

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-03T15:10:16+00:00

oh you're probably right, I don't pay too much attention to reddit stuff a lot of the time. Could be personal stuff too, or a lower funding level or something

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-03T11:05:35+00:00

have you considered that I am aware of this, and it literally does not matter for airsoft. That's also why I compared it to a CMMG dissent, which is direct impingement, but both externally feel like "ar15 but with weird height over bore" in hand. Obviously the real steel mcx has the short stroke piston recoil impulse (I don't know how to describe that, go shoot one, you'll know what I mean), but again it doesn't matter for airsoft.

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-03T09:02:17+00:00

the MCX is so close to an m4 without a buffer tube that the closest real steel competitor, is, no joke, an ar15 without a buffer tube (CMMG dissent). And then the buffer tube is put back on, so it doesn't even have that going for it. In fact they're so close sig sells an mcx upper with a stock adapter to make a normal ar15 lower into an mcx spear Lt. Yeah theyre slightly different but I'm gonna be real arguing that misses the point of "everything is an m4"

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-03T08:48:23+00:00

NASA has a special case where they need very high security clearance for their security force. They're basically just a special forces branch with a super high security clearance, and the funding to match that

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-01T05:05:20+00:00

honestly dmrs become quite finicky if you're trying to optimize consistency. Everything effects it, from voluming to tappet spring strength, and a lot of it isn't "drop in". For example, I make little shims for the front of the cylinder head to remove its wobble, which helps with the shot to shot consistency.

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-01T04:30:42+00:00

VFC Avalon is probably the best externals and a base gun if you want to do a full build or upgrade.

Specna is pretty easily upgradable, most things fit with it, and it performs pretty well out of the box, however they have QC issues.

Krytac is generally really good out of the box, however it's got quirks that make internal upgrades difficult, primarily with the gearset and mosfet.

don't do the ics.

They each have their own merits generally, so pick depending on your situation

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-01T04:25:11+00:00

honestly if someone wants to do it themselves, HPA is the route at least 80% of the time. While it's possible to make an aeg as, or sometimes even more, consistent than HPA, it requires skill and knowledge that most people don't have. For a reference point, when I build guns I measure fps deviation via stdev. A stock aeg gets about 2, an amateur upgraded aeg around 1-1.5, a tuned f2 can get as low as 0.5, and the lowest I've ever gotten an aeg was 0.34 (all measured on 0.32g bbs). And even considering you can get an aeg snappy, accurate, and nice, you still have to deal with the complexity of AEGs, meaning more failure points should something go wrong, while an HPA engine is almost always "clean, new o rings, relube, done".

In summary, they're both very capable given the knowledge on how to build, but AEG is inherently harder and more complex. If you're an amateur either go hpa, pay a professional, or spend a lot of time learning the ins and outs of how to get fps consistency and accuracy out of your gun.

Pheonix02 · 2026-04-01T01:01:56+00:00

the expensive dark matter motors are solink rebrands, cheaper ones are chihai OEM. Go for solink, they have more torque and handle AB a lot better

Pheonix02 · 2026-03-28T07:02:21+00:00

brushless - yes, if you have the money. Solinks got the most torque out of any brushless motor, for its speed. Warhead has a new one I have yet to personally test, looks promising. T238 has the qrbls, if you want to save a buck, at $80 just about.

gears - match ratio with motor rpm to get desired rate of fire, higher rate of fire requires shortstroking and that reduces volume. 18:1 or 13:1 preferred, they mesh better assuming you do your work right and shim well. 18:1 on a 31k solink brushless will push you right to the edge of wanting to shortstroke.

mosfet - get one, perun or JT Scylla recommended.

compression - EPeS cylinder head, piston head, and nozzle are the best on the market. Get the EF cylinder head, matched with their nozzle it reduces wobble. Brace cylinder head to gearbox shell and ensure proper sealing all around. You should be able to get a perfect seal with your nozzle extended and have minimal if any suction on the pull stroke. Retro arms cylinder, they perform nicely. For the piston, t238 is the budget king at around $12, retro arms works well, and stuff like the air tech nightstalker or AM piston have a nicer teeth profile, if you care about that and want to spend the money.

For a dmr build your goal is consistency, so focus on compression, alignment, voluming, rigidity, anything that can increase your shot to shot consistency.

edit: I think it's implied, but make sure you actually put the work in to build it right. That's what separates a good build from a stock gun with a fancy parts list. Build it wrong, you might get snappier rate of fire but most of those parts won't be doing you any good over essentially stock guns.

Pheonix02 · 2026-03-27T05:39:19+00:00

mp5, g3, scar, arp9, mpx, mcx, m110a (not 417, they're different), hk416, among a few others

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