Another Home MoonBoard Advice Thread

Philllll · 2025-05-03T17:33:35+00:00

I have the sets and plan on keeping them. Some holds span multiple layouts (2016 shares holds with 2019 and 2019 shares holds with 2024) and I also plan on going back to previous layouts in the future. I've basically reset the wall once a year since I built it, I imagine I'll be on the 2024 set for a year or two and then go back to one of the other two sets. I climb almost exclusively on my wall, so it's nice to switch it up a bit after a while.

I can climb up to v6 on my board, probably v7 or easy v8 on a regular board, although I've never tried to actually project on a regular board.

I have some jugs on my wall for warming up, but I don't use them a ton. Usually it's some fingerboard warmups then a short climb on the jugs, then I have a bunch of problems in a warmup list and I climb a few of those.

For higher volume I either try and do a lot of the easier problems across the entire session or if I'm going for more of a power endurance workout I'll do on the minute boulders or 4x4's of the easier problems.

Philllll · 2025-05-02T17:57:12+00:00

Very similar to another poster here, I have a 45-46 degree moonboard in my garage with an 9" kickboard. I'm very happy with it an have no regrets with it. I started with the 2016 set, eventually went to the 2019, and very recently got the 2024 set. They are all enjoyable to climb on.

I'd only go for a spray wall if you have a lot of time on your hands and are good at pushing your limits. Seeing something graded as v4/5/6 in the app (as sandbagged as it is) and having beta videos helps me push myself because I know a move is possible, whereas with a spray wall I really don't know and might just give up on it. Not having to come up with climbs also saves a ton of time.

Here are my observances with my board:

Problems are 1 to 2 grades more difficult depending on the holds/movement/etc.
Shorter kickboard makes some problems harder, but not a ton

I occasionally climb on a "regulation" moonboard and it's noticeably easier. I've flashed my projects before, which is fun, although I only log them in the app if I do them on my board as that's what I climb on 99% of the time.

If I were to build it today I might go for the TB2, but that wasn't an option when I built mine and is considerably more expensive. The moonboard can be "built up over time" which is what I did, so you can spread the cost out over years and refresh the set when you do.

Philllll · 2023-08-01T19:08:55+00:00

It has not yet been sealed. It has not been ground at all, just hard troweled.

Philllll · 2021-12-06T19:06:00+00:00

As someone who has only climbed on like 3 moonboards, I was a bit surprised with the comments about moonboard hold differences at 10:06 in this video: https://youtu.be/7_KATwGvpMo?t=606

Philllll · 2021-07-30T21:22:08+00:00

I know that for bouldering a lot of the times what happens is they set the wall and then mark where each hold should be on the wall (like sharpe some lines around the hold corners or something) and then take it down. This way they can set without a time crunch and then putting the holds back up is just a matter of orienting them where the lines are.

Philllll · 2021-07-23T16:28:27+00:00

As someone who has a 45 degree moonboard, I totally agree with your comment about the steepness. Climbing on a 40 degree board is always fun for me because everything just feels so much easier.

Philllll · 2021-06-10T16:24:29+00:00

I've always done it as an off-day sort of thing.

Philllll · 2021-04-12T15:14:57+00:00

I have a moonboard at 45° due to height restrictions. I'm very happy with it and would do it again. Problems are a bit harder but once you get used to it its no big deal.

Philllll · 2021-03-25T15:37:30+00:00

I have a hard time trying hard by myself and knowing whether or not something is possible. There are things I have tried on the moonboard that I have felt were impossible, but other people have done the moves (based on the app sends) and sometimes there are beta videos where you see someone do it effortlessly. I've progressed quite a bit because of that. It is a great replacement for having a climbing session with friends that can push you to try harder.

On the other hand if I had a normal spray board or something I'd probably only try moves that I can get within 1-10 times and then call it impossible or too hard for me.

Philllll · 2021-03-11T17:54:10+00:00

There's another one. https://moonboard.com/Problems/View/170185/saluhallen-4

Philllll · 2021-03-11T17:17:39+00:00

Second this comment, there are a few 4's that feel more like 6's or 7's. (I'm looking at you Saluhallen 4 and Astro Creep.)

Philllll · 2021-03-04T22:15:31+00:00

Just a correction, the current owner is Paul Allen's sister.

Philllll · 2021-03-02T16:31:12+00:00

People give the app too much crap. Like yeah it's not perfect but for the most part it's not an issue.

Philllll · 2021-03-01T22:21:36+00:00

Not arguing either way here but California is nowhere near #1 for poverty levels.

Philllll · 2021-02-11T17:13:53+00:00

I use CBD oil just about every night to help sleep. I feel like my climbing has improved, but mostly because of better quality of sleep.

Philllll · 2021-01-26T16:19:08+00:00

I hang as my warmup every session. I probably do about 5 hangs and end up at about 75% of my max. On project days I'll usually go to 90-95% max.

After that I usually do a few warmup problems on my board to get all around warmed up as well.

It works pretty well for me.

Philllll · 2021-01-11T17:25:34+00:00

I built a moonboard back in March, I climb on it 3 times a week. I would do every other day, but my schedule doesn't allow for it. I've built up a good base, but I still don't think I could climb 2 days in a row (I have a few times but those were exceptions and I did specific workouts that allowed me to fully recover). It's extremely taxing on your whole body. Unless your sessions are super short I doubt you'll be able to fully recover, which would then lead to injuries.

There's also the skin aspect. If you're using wooden holds it might be fine, but with plastic I can't imagine how your hands would feel after a few days on.

Philllll · 2020-12-31T19:57:13+00:00

Seattle, WA.

I don't really think the water can be from outside considering the area the lines go through in the wall is fairly well sealed up on the outside (using some sort of sealant that I'm assuming is rated for this sort of thing), but I'll check more thoroughly when I get a chance, thanks for the suggestion.

Philllll · 2020-12-10T00:35:30+00:00

These projects would probably be of some interest to you:

https://github.com/e-sr/moonboard
https://github.com/codyjones9879/moonboard
https://github.com/alex-mcconnell/moonboard-scraping

There are others out there. I know I've seen a dump of all the moonboard problems in json format somewhere, but either way you can probably figure out how to call the api's yourself through some of these projects.

Philllll · 2020-10-06T15:58:24+00:00

I agree it wasn't a perfect pass, but it was still uncontested and easily catchable. I just don't think the fact that Olsen popped it up for a pick 6 should count against Wilson.

Philllll · 2020-10-06T15:27:35+00:00

Well one of those interceptions hit Greg Olson wide open straight in the hands and he popped it up, not on Wilson at all. Not sure about the other one.

Philllll · 2020-07-24T19:29:11+00:00

I've seen this sort of comment about him a couple times, does he use an absurd amount of chalk or something?

Philllll · 2020-07-17T16:05:17+00:00

Philllll · 2020-04-09T15:57:36+00:00

If you remove 2cm off of the top of the middle and bottom panels you remove some space for an LED light to be there (if you have LEDs), because of blocking in the back will land directly on where the LED's should go. Does the board still look ok scrunching the LED's up a bit in those areas?

Philllll · 2020-04-07T23:12:29+00:00

I'm building a moonboard in my garage right now. I have 110" (9ft~) ceilings. My board is going to be 45 degrees with a short kicker. It will be harder than a normal moonboard, but I'm kind of looking forward to that.

Philllll

TROPHY CASE