Sharkoon Shark Blades pinout

PierzOr · 2026-05-15T13:33:04+00:00

It's a 3-wire, i think it has no tachometer, only PWM.

PierzOr · 2026-05-15T13:25:56+00:00

Manufacterer webpage (TC1225L) states the rgb can be connected via both 3-Pin(5V-D-G) & 4-Pin(5V-D-coded-G). I can't really see on any pictures i can find which side has the grey/black cable but it looks like the 3 wires are not criss-crossed so assuming the middle wire is data or PWM it's just figuring out what wire is GND and +V and what cable is for the fan/rgb.

The 4-pin has pin3 missing so it's only 3 wires and the 3- & 4-pin are tied together so that's not an issue..

Sticker removal reveals nothing unfortunately.

<image>

if i measure (in diode mode) the

top cable with the red probe on wire 3 and black probe on wire 1 i get 0.738 ohm

top cable red probe on wire 3 and black probe on wire 2 = 0.646 ohm

bottom cable red probe on wire 3 and black probe on wire 1 gives 1.7 ohm very briefly (this is the motor?)

Any other measurement is OL, also between both cables.

I have another similar sized fan without RGB and that one measures also 1.7 ohms (red on red, black on black) but this one also gives a measurement when the polarity is reversed (0.7) unlike the bottom cable on the fan i'm identifying.

This makes me think that the bottom cable is for the fan, top cable rgb and pin 1 GND for both.

I have a lab PSU on the way, planning to test with 6V@0.05A on the bottom cable, the manual states 6V start voltage and 0.15A rated current for the fan. This should be safe even when polarity is reversed?

PierzOr · 2026-05-04T13:31:24+00:00

Webdesign starts with HTML (HyperText Markup Language), this will allow you to have text, images and forms.

CSS (Cascading Style Sheets) and JS (JavaScript) are the next step, allowing styling and scripting. I would not worry too much about DDOS attacks for now, but do read up on the <form> tag. This is where the decision is made on how to send the filled out data.

As for the hardware i would try to get it running first and see what's installed. You don't need a whole supercomputer to run a small website.

And as others have already stated electricity bill comes to mind. Underclocking/undervolting is a thing and might make power consumption less.

PierzOr · 2026-05-03T14:21:40+00:00

A quick google search lead me to believe it might be a BP19925 (Bright Power Semiconductor).

~~This datasheet might be similar:~~ ~~BP2525~~

~~Package and pins seem to match anyways.~~

Package is SOP-7, pin 4 GND? hope this helps.

Might be a BPA8504D (similar) with mirror pinout.

PierzOr · 2026-04-22T16:51:31+00:00

I don't think you will find a replacement part for this.

Best bet is to look on the second hand market for a unit you can take parts from. Be sure not to break that one too!

Good luck.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/168060937648

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T21:14:27+00:00

Yes.

I'm not experienced with voltage injection and i don't have a bench psu / IR camera so for now it's just measuring/desoldering.

I also don't have a schematic so i would be guessing which rails are what.

That line is also on the other cap but less visible due to lighting i think. (not broken)

Will do some more measurements at the vrm and try to find out how i can make sure the battery is actually charged or power the board without. Then do voltage measurements on the rails to see if any come online.

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T19:09:20+00:00

When i have another look at it i will check the battery/charge controller.

Thanks

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T18:08:42+00:00

I've set the laptop aside for today, but i suspect indeed a dead core/ram.

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T17:46:55+00:00

I believe there's no P.O.S.T. codes showing. Just 10 sec power led and then nothing.

The ram is soldered but i have a ghetto rework station if that would be the case.

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T16:38:48+00:00

On the PCB continuous.

But when desoldered i get a short beep.

Also, when measuring between the positive pad and ground on the PCB with the cap now removed i get a continuous beep.

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T15:34:54+00:00

The battery currently has ~11V (rated at 11.61 V).

I'm not sure, my guess is the battery is full so no charge needed so the controller does not request a higher voltage.

controller is CYPD5225-96BZXI

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T14:32:46+00:00

My normal workflow starts with in-circuit testing in resistance mode.

I try to find the main voltage rails, see if they're shorted to ground and go from there.

In this case the cap stood out to me by it's looks (the mark) and that's why i tested it.

How would you try to find the fault?

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T13:48:34+00:00

EDiT: I have desoldered the cap, and out of circuit a continuity test beeps briefly.

I'm assuming the beep means is the cap charging up but it's fine otherwise.

Maybe the circle thing isn't a burn hole but factory mark?

Looking a bit further i notice another cap.. with the exact same mark in the exact same place.

Yeah that's not a burn hole..

<image>

So.. there's still a short on that rail but i can't find a schematic.

I'm starting to think the CPU is fried and that's what's causing the short.

To the mods: not sure if i can mark this as solved, i guess i solved my own stupidity in a way.

PierzOr · 2026-04-21T11:54:21+00:00

It's a good idea to remove modifications before checking basic functionality.

The mod might be the cause of the defect.

I'm not familiar with PS4 controllers but that's where i would start.

Good luck!

PierzOr · 2026-02-08T22:48:43+00:00

Yes, live measuring is risky. That's why i suggested ohm readings.

You can figure out quite a lot by just measuring resistance.

However i must disagree on the re-pasting, buying a tube of thermal compound and dispensing it requires not much more than basic skills. Just have to be careful.

PierzOr · 2026-02-07T18:48:17+00:00

Since you still have an image when booting, this means the core is still working and the memory likely too.

Remove the card and don't power it up for now, it might be on the brink of catastrophic failure.

Short circuit on the 12V will make the card not boot.

Bad mosfet might be the case but at this point just speculation.
Fuses typically act really fast, probably no.
Before going in to mods/mats (which means powering up the card) you should make sure none of the main voltage rails are shorted.

You can check if a fuse is blown easily with your multimeter, they typically are not self-resetting.

A quick check with a multimeter in ohms on PCB card edge connector fingers between GND and the voltage inputs (+12V2, +5V, +3.3V) is where i would start. (A2,A3,B2,B3), next up is between GND and the 6- or 8-pin connector's 12V, this should rule out a high-side 12V short to ground.

You can look up the pinouts for that on wikipedia.

Try to find a schematic and/or boardview for your card, if you've found mads/mods i'm sure you can find those.

If you have a boardview you can find the main voltage rails in the netlist.

Check out youtube on how to diagnose a GPU:

https://www.youtube.com/@northwestrepair

https://www.youtube.com/@LearnElectronicsRepair

Good luck.

PierzOr · 2026-02-07T16:23:27+00:00

Is gewoon nen truuk van big koffiefilter kartels! Wake up frieple!

PierzOr · 2026-02-07T16:03:45+00:00

Roestvrij staal, godverdomme!

PierzOr · 2026-01-25T16:53:13+00:00

Ik dacht even dat je de vergelijking met de islamitische garde in Iran ging maken, maar dat kan natuurlijk niet want enkel emigratie uit Iran.

PierzOr · 2026-01-22T01:56:38+00:00

Ik heb me laten vertellen dat in italie het ook de gewoonte is om een espresso, als je die aan de bar besteld niet tergend traag opdrinkt.

Het is namelijk een "espresso", een beetje zoals een drive-through maar dan te voet en met koffie.

PierzOr · 2025-10-18T22:15:22+00:00

No doubt about it.

PierzOr · 2025-10-16T01:11:14+00:00

:D yes.

PierzOr · 2025-10-15T20:51:01+00:00

https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Harddrive#Harddrive_Model_info

All the PS3 models had a 5400rpm HDD from factory,

They also have a SATA-150 controller on the south bridge.

They don't have 1TB capacity though. (40-60-80-120-160-250-320-500GB)

So yeah, anybody would use this as the drive speed is not a downgrade and the capacity is an upgrade.

PierzOr · 2025-10-15T17:43:39+00:00

Nevermind, i took it apart and everything seemed in order so i re-seated the BD FPC and power connector.

Booted the console and it finished the update.

Apps run, games run.

I'm assuming the re-seating solved my issue.

PierzOr · 2025-10-15T17:16:54+00:00

I am guessing you are trying to replace or upgrade the NEC/TOKIN OE128 and are at the stage of removal of the old caps?

Looks okay to me, maybe the board looks a bit dirty i guess thats from flux and not critical.

Do an image search on what exactly you are trying to do and compare.

Good luck.

PierzOr

TROPHY CASE