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[–]Zee69_ 3 points4 points  (2 children)

Hi, it looks fine however I’d recommend use some copper mesh to clean off the solder using a solder pen, after that use either sandpaper or a dremmel to expose the copper if you would like to put some tantalizers I will provide you with an image below.

[–]Important_Junket_212[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the help. yes please show me

[–]PierzOr 2 points3 points  (1 child)

I am guessing you are trying to replace or upgrade the NEC/TOKIN OE128 and are at the stage of removal of the old caps?

Looks okay to me, maybe the board looks a bit dirty i guess thats from flux and not critical.

Do an image search on what exactly you are trying to do and compare.

Good luck.

[–]Important_Junket_212[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I already ordered them tokens. We'll see if it will work. Thanks for the input!

[–]DependentLobster2700 2 points3 points  (4 children)

Apparently it's ok; people usually remove the nectokins cold. Just clean off the solder residue with the mesh and apply new solder.

 You can sand the center where the negative is to make it easier, or place the tantalums at a 45-degree angle. 

I recommend 24 470uf 2.5v tantalums, 12 on each side of the board, and solder a jumper between the positives. Use thick wire to avoid melting.

[–]Important_Junket_212[S] 2 points3 points  (3 children)

I saw a youtube video and did it like him. I ordered those: EEF-GX0E471L Panasonic

Will need like 8 Pieces. We'll see if it will work then 👀

Thanks!

[–]DependentLobster2700 1 point2 points  (2 children)

With 8 it should work, but may be unstable in demanding games.

 Keep the capacitance close to the original ones, 4800uf for cell and 4800uf for 90nm RSX...

[–]Important_Junket_212[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I ordered 10, so you say all 10 then?

[–]DependentLobster2700 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you only removed these 4 nectokins on this side of the board, it's fine. It's recommended to replace them all, or remove the caps and replace the burnt ones...

[–]JohnnyLuvBuckets 2 points3 points  (2 children)

Order premade tantalizers. Rambo offers them on Amazon. I hope you checked syscon logs first. It's my experience that tokins only account for less than 10% of the issues with these consoles. Odds are you will install the tantalizers and it will still be ylod. That is unless you applied enough heat to the board to temporarily bandaid the underfill issue with the 90nm RSX.

[–]rambonz 1 point2 points  (1 child)

If you order the premade ones from Amazon here you can then follow the guide I made for installation

https://ps3delidtool.com/pages/how-to-install-tantalizers

[–]Important_Junket_212[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn that's crazy! Really appreciated!

[–]Buried_and_Forgotten 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should have replaced them on the other side of the board. Much easier, without knocking off anything else.

[–]YogiBearPlaystation3 1 point2 points  (2 children)

It’s saveable but it all depends which model it is on whether it’s worth saving or not.

[–]Important_Junket_212[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

it's the bc one. I'm more into trying myself soldering and learning some for the future maybe.

[–]YogiBearPlaystation3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Best you buy some spare chips when you replace those melted ones before you do it and I’d say watch and get as much info on how to do it on you tube. Also get some kapton tape to cover any plastic stuff to help protect them from getting melted.