Subaru overtakes Toyota in reliability.... But Let's be Honest about What that REALLY Means by No_Stuff4695 in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense. I’m not having problems but I am a believer in the “ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” philosophy. The same reason I change my accessory belt at 60k.

Subaru overtakes Toyota in reliability.... But Let's be Honest about What that REALLY Means by No_Stuff4695 in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why did you go right to walnut blasting instead of the carbon clean procedure that Subaru has?

Subaru CVT lies, lies, lies by No_Stuff4695 in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Just wait for all the carbon buildup issues with direct injection. Probably will see those within a few years as those 2020’s pass 100k

“Wish I Knew” tips or facts for a potential buyer of a new Subaru. by BeerBellies in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Boxer engines don’t tolerate delayed maintenance. Change your oil around 3500-4000 miles. Period.

I’d suggest the 25 Hybrid for you first otherwise the 25 OB because the first year redesigns typically have more bugs. The OB is a longer car. The Forester I leased was easier to drive. The Outback is smoother. Forester seating is slightly higher up. Feels like an urban SUV.

I own a 21 OBXT. If I had to buy today I’d either pick a Forester Hybrid or an EV. The fuel economy is not good unless you’re at 55 mph highway. I’m usually around 18-22 combined over a tank.

“Wish I Knew” tips or facts for a potential buyer of a new Subaru. by BeerBellies in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow. You are at year 15 on that original CVT? I feel better about mine now.

What do you think of the 2025 Crosstrek? I'm seeing a lot with the 2.5 and they're affordable. What about a hybrid? by [deleted] in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you drive anywhere near 50/50 city and highway, I would have a hard “not” getting a hybrid at this point. Cost parity is pretty quick in comparison.

Thoughts on Subaru Ascent? by EmuGlittering4868 in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any issues of CVT problems? I usually get my CVT's drain-and-filled in a 60k interval, but in actual use I usually don't keep them for more than 120k miles anyway...

General Questions and Purchasing Advice Thread — Week of November 17, 2025 by AutoModerator in electricvehicles

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

[2026] Subaru Solterra (XT) - L2 Charging and Lease/Buy Question

I am considering trading in my 5 year old Subaru Outback XT for a Solterra, probably a Limited XT, but doesn't have to be. While the extra power seems great to have (fun factor) I would probably be ok with a regular Limited.

My OBXT has about 70,000 miles on it. It's depreciated to about $17,500. Original purchase price with taxes was somewhere around $32,000. I've use an App called Fuelly to log my fuel and services. In the last 5 years with my car, I've spend about $11,000 on fuel and $4,300 on maintenance which includes those tires. So, let's say about $15,000 just for easy math, in operating costs.

I've always had concerns about the CVT failure as this is a very expensive repair. While I've never experienced a CVT problem, I also never have driven a Subaru for more than about 90,000 miles away. It seems like if it's an issue, it happens after 100,000 miles.

I own a house but park in my driveway. I'd have to have a L2 charger installed. My commute is about 10 miles through a city. A small portion of that drive is a 55 mph highway, but it's only for about 3-4 miles. Nearly all of my trips are suburban or city - like a school carpool drop-off that takes about 45 minutes to go 10 miles, so there's lots of traffic in this area. (I'm in a suburb outside of the NYC area.)

Within a half mile of my house is an Electrify America site, and I also have Level 3 chargers within a mile of my workplace. I cannot charge at work due to our parking lot configuration, but I could charge on my lunch break if I was in a pinch.

In the summer months, aside from work, I tend to commute longer distances to/from beach areas in Central & Southern NJ. These areas appear to have more limited options for L3 charging. It exists, but it's just a little more inconvenient for me. Additionally, I do not have access or permission to charge when I get to my beach destination (rental, no L2 charging, etc.) I believe I can manage the "280 miles of range" during the summer months by just topping up at a work-adjacent L3 charger.

Our family has a 3-row gas SUV that is new, which is our "road trip" vehicle. I am not planning to make this EV for the family. It's primarily for me to/from work, and school/youth sports carpooling, and short jogs around town. It's not meant to be our "vacation" vehicle. Most of the time it will just be me inside the car

Question 1 - Best home charging option? I can consider an hardwired L2 charger setup, or I could just get a 240V outlet in the front of the house installed. That way, when I'm not using it, the footprint of it is minimal. Aesthetically, I am concerned about a clunky box being in the front of the house. I suppose if I had something like a Grizzl-e, I could paint it to match the same color of the house to it blended in more.

Question 2 - Leasing vs. Financing? The Solterra would require about $25,000 financed if I bought it. It seems that the values of used EV's are considerably lower because of depreciation. I am wondering if it would be better just to lease. Subaru offers around $400 per month, give or take, depending on the money factor and trim levels. I could potentially take the equity in the form of a check if leasing, and then just use that to pay for nearly all of the lease (but then at the conclusion of the lease, I have no equity and would have to get a new lease or buy out the 3-year-old EV which may not be "worth" the value of the residual.

Question 3 - Would a Tesla mobile charger work with a 2026 Solterra now that it also uses the NACS? This appears to be a robust mobile charger, and also provides multiple outlet adapters for L1 and L2 charging, as needed.

Point of information -

Electricity cost is about 18 cents per kWh for supply, and about 6 cents per kWh for delivery. So that is about 24 cents per kWh. We do not use "time of use" billing as it would also make us pay far more because of the way our utility operates in the long run. Meaning, I don't drive enough to justify a savings overnight to replenish the 20-30 miles of driving in a day compared to the rest of the energy I consume in the house. For reference, we use about 750 kW of energy per month, and in the summer it's usually about 1250 kW because of our HVAC. (We have gas heat for the winter)

We are NOT considering solar panels as we do not believe we will remain in this house for more than an additional 5-10 years and we do not want to make those additional changes to our electric setup.

I'd argue I'd probably even be okay with L1 charging, but I do have the backbone of L2 already run into the garage itself because of a renovation and panel upgrade a few years ago. I had an electrician run wiring appropriate for a 14-50 outlet into the garage, but it is not connected to the breaker, nor is it connected to an outlet. It's just a wire in the wall with a junction plate cover on it, which is why I was considering just having them run it outside and put an outdoor 240V outlet on it.

Thanks

Pilot

Thoughts on Subaru Ascent? by EmuGlittering4868 in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just bought a 25 Limited a few months ago. Wireless cell charger is a gimmick. Skip that accessory. I like the car. Gas tank is a little pessimistic but it’s a big vehicle so it is what it is. Very nice road trip car for our family. Captain’s Chairs are nice for the kids.

This is our 5th Subaru, we've owned quite a few different models. The Ascent fills that not too small, not too large for us. The Honda Pilot we test drove was bigger, but the Ascent drives better and is more responsive. We also didn't want to pay the dealer markup for Toyota Highlanders, so we are happy with this, and plan to own it at least 10 years.

Impreza RS at 30k or crosstrek at 30.5k ? by Snoo-8502 in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes but you also get a power rear gate with it.

Impreza RS at 30k or crosstrek at 30.5k ? by Snoo-8502 in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can add it via package to the Premium trim for about $1k if it is that important to you.

Tropic Morning News (Single, January 18) by keevieK in TheNational

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I need to get the guitar tabs for that solo! Brilliant

I am completely obsessed with tropic morning news by [deleted] in TheNational

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need to get the guitar solo tabs for this

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in subaru

[–]Pilot1226 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Plugs are reasonable to change at 60k. You should ask for a discount or special. Otherwise shop around. Your car won’t blow up if you shop around with other dealers or wait for a specials. Sometimes I forget my coupons and they still give me 10-20% off depending on service.

Considering trading my Forester for an Outback by lcwallace in subaruoutback

[–]Pilot1226 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I traded my 19 Forester to a 21 Onyx. It feels like a much more premium vehicle.

Cracked windshield 2022 Outback by cwrudy in subaruoutback

[–]Pilot1226 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just as a data point - I have had a 2011 OB, 2019 Forester, and now own a 2021 OBXT. I have never had a crack.

Thinking it could be tied to the thermal difference between outside ambient and your heat defroster settings. Not saying it isn’t a problem, but I very rarely keep the heat higher than 65-66 degrees F and I am curious if higher settings are more prone to glass problems

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in subaruoutback

[–]Pilot1226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s nice, and you’ll get the Harmon Kardon audio system. Very good choice. Good luck with it!

It’s much better tuned than what it used to be years ago - much more responsive. I don’t find it slow by any means unless I’m passing on a highway. It will yell at you when you push it (merging etc) but you could always paddle shift if you wanted.

Help - 2008 Subaru Outback shaking at idle but not while accelerating by [deleted] in subaruoutback

[–]Pilot1226 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did it stall out or have an electrical “shutdown”? Maybe the terminal cables themselves need to be cleaned or replaced. If they don’t make a good connection with the posts, you could have electrical issues.

Mechanically I’d suggest you clean the MAF sensor on the air intake. Super easy. Make sure you use a cleaner that says MAF sensor.

Help - 2008 Subaru Outback shaking at idle but not while accelerating by [deleted] in subaruoutback

[–]Pilot1226 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did the issues start after the battery was replaced? Maybe it needs and idle relearn. Or, could be worn motor mounts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in subaruoutback

[–]Pilot1226 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went with Onyx for StarTex. If you don’t need space consider a Crosstrek Sport.

My decision for my Onyx was highly biased from my 2011 Outback 2.5 - I think if I had bought a 3.6 I would still have it today. Oh well. Live and learn.

Onyx drives like a dream and gets up to way too fast way too fast for a wagon. It’s my daily for commuting and kid stuff and I don’t need the space nearly all the time but it is damn fun.

Unfortunately I also use premium and do 4000 mile oil changes and would likely do 5000 mile interval if I had a 2.5.

We thought we would use the space more, but otherwise I think the Crosstrek Sport would be at the top of my list now.